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Dowel Pin survey...

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I bought my 93 work truck with 168k, staked and locktited the KDP at about 185k. It now has 310k. My backup truck had 138k when purchased, now has 185k, I haven't fixed the KDP yet.



It looks to me like staking and locktiting the kdp is the most secure if it fits your mechanical experience. The tabs are probably the easiest to do if you are not comfortable with staking and locktiting. Both are better than the jig and screw because you can re-torque all the bolts under the front cover that have loosened up. Why do half a job that only takes 2-4 hours, but all methods are better than doing nothing.



My work truck weighs 9k loaded every day of the year, is driven mainly on hard surface roads at speeds up to 70mph and ocassionally pulls a deckover flatbed that weighs 10k loaded. My backup truck weighs 5740 empty and is driven empty much of the time mostly on hard surface roads at speeds up to 70mph. It ocassionally pulls a four horse gooseneck trailer that weighs 8500 loaded or the deckover that weighs 10k loaded.
 
got 290,000+ on the ole goat, havent bothered with it. though this issue was mainly in the P-Pump engines? the job seams simple enough, just havent bothered.
 
Can someone explain the staking process. I have my motor out and will take care of the KDP, but wasnt sure what is meant by staking vs tabbing. Thanks
 
I started by doing the screw method thanks to Harold Bower - Harold made my kit. I watched him do one on a 2nd gen and felt it would not be difficult. I did this at 156k - that was before I knew about the case bolts. Once again it was Harold who showed me what the case bolts could do - cam broken into 3 pieces and bent push rods. Luckily it did not destroy the engine. I then -at 178k - did the case bolts. All were loose but the set screw was in a perfect position to block the dowel pin from coming out.



I too bought my truck new off the lot in Jan of 1993 and have been forced:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:to work on it ever since.



Bob
 
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Can someone explain the staking process

Use a small flat punch, say 1/8 or 3/16 diameter. With the dowel pin in place put the punch about half on the case and about half over the hole. Give it a good whack with a hammer.

That will displace some of the case material over/into the hole and block the dowel pin from being able to move outward.

Stake in 2 or 3 places around the hole.

You don't have to displace very much material. All you need is a few thousanths on each stake to do the job.



The pin will never move.
 
We had MAXTORQ check ours at about 190k, and it had worked it's way out a little. He put it back where it belongs and staked it and tightened the bolts. Peace of mind is priceless!
 
Got mine staked in five places. All but one of the case bolts were loose. Got those tight as well as the cam retainer and oil pump. We should be good to go. JLEONARD thanks for the info, worked great. I used a flat punch about 1/4 with an edge on it. Held it on an angle to the edge of the hole and did that a number of times around the hole to role the material back into the hole. She is good and tight.
 
Tabbing just adds one more part in there... which is why staking is best to me. The pin fits the bore snuggly. So any deformation of the hole means it can't fall into the gear train. It may still move and migrate out toward the end of the bore... but it can't fall out. Staking is sortof what Cummins did for the fix. Except their "stake" is a ridge of material around the hole.



Whichever you do... make sure to drive the pin back in as far as it goes. Then green loctite after cleaning the bore of oil residue. Then stake. You couldn't pull it out with a winch then.



Why the hold wasn't just cast as a blind hole so the pin could never go anywhere... I'll never know.
 
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Why the hold wasn't just cast as a blind hole so the pin could never go anywhere... I'll never know



Because blind dowel holes are poor practise. If for some reason the pin ever broke it could not be removed for repair. Blind holes are hard to measure, hard to clean, etc.

The error was making both holes a slip fit. Normally one hole is slip and the other press.

What's really quite odd about this is that the marine engines do not suffer from this condition.
 
Why the hold wasn't just cast as a blind hole so the pin could never go anywhere... I'll never know.



It was changed. Starting in 99 or so the cover was changed to a blind hole. Hmmm, guess Cummins decided to address the issue without acknowleding it. :-laf



All that pin is for is centering the cover on the block in the automated assembly process. It serves no useful purpose after things are tightened down other than cause sleepless nights. :rolleyes:
 
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