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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) dowel pin

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) by-pass oil filter (Amsoil)

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Today I checked my pin and the pin was out . 125 or so. I could not believe it. I saw more and more of the post on the pin. I decided to check my truck as I dont wont to take chances. Total amount of money is around 55 $ or so. Time to install a new belt anyway. Much better than a few 100 or a lot more.

I had gave up on the jig ever showing up this far south. By the time the jig had got from friend to friend or buddy the truck would have the thrashed.

It is best to take care of your own problems if possible.

Jimk
 
Good to hear you decided to fix it, I'll give you a shout when I get home to do the timing! I found out some info we were talking about.



Jim
 
If you didn't use the jig I assumed you pulled the timing cover and did the tab fix? Drop me a pm and let me know how bad the job was.



dan

"living on the edge with the dowel pin"
 
Dan it is way over rated, simple to do except for the seal install and building or buying the tab. E-mail me and I'll send you the instructions.



-- email address removed --
 
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I bought a new cover gasket but did not need to use it. My old one was in perfect shape and does not leak. I did replace the front oil seal. Hint: the black ring that comes with the Cummins oil seal goes on after the cover is in place and be sure to use the plastic sleeve in the kit to get the seal started on the crank.
 
KDP

Jimk What was the miles on your truck??

Also has anyone tried to just use the plastic sleve

to pull the cover with out damaging the old seal?
 
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Pulling the cover will not damage the old seal, with the balancer out of the way, the cover (once unbolted) will just slip off the crank. To reuse the original seal you will need the plastic sleeve (it guides the seal lips over the end of the crank shaft) to install the cover, then it will probably leak like a sive.

This is just to simple not to do, spend the few bucks and the little bit of time it takes to replace the seal while you have the cover off in your hand. Could save you headaches later. ;) Gaskets and seals are CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP. :D
 
Originally posted by Elkaholic

Pulling the cover will not damage the old seal, with the balancer out of the way, the cover (once unbolted) will just slip off the crank. To reuse the original seal you will need the plastic sleeve (it guides the seal lips over the end of the crank shaft) to install the cover, then it will probably leak like a sive.

This is just to simple not to do, spend the few bucks and the little bit of time it takes to replace the seal while you have the cover off in your hand. Could save you headaches later. ;) Gaskets and seals are CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP. :D
I have the new seal. I bought two of them. The sleve is installed in the seal. Do you install the seal into the cover befor you put it on the shaft or did you try to put the seal in afterwards. There is not much room to work in there. Once you had the seal in place how hard was it to remove the plastic sleve? I don't have a barring tool so how hard is it to hold the crank for removal of the damper bolts?
 
Install the seal into the cover then install the cover onto the engine, the plastic sleeve will then just slip out when you pull on it. I don't have a barring tool either, it's been some time since I did mine but I don't recall any difficulty with the engine trying to turn while I loosened or tightened the dampener bolts.
 
Re: KDP

Sir I have 82k miles and I could not trust my Luck any more. I told my uncle who never uses the net about the pin and he lives in a small town in TX also. Unless ever one on his block that drives a cummins looses a pin he will just ask dodge for their expert advice. Jimk













Originally posted by grtescpa

Jimk What was the miles on your truck??

Also has anyone tried to just use the plastic sleve

to pull the cover with out damaging the old seal?
 
After my attempt at sealing the front cover with silicone (it says to in the 6 page version of the seal install instructions!), I removed the cover, installed the gasket, cleaned the seal and the crank (again).



Then I installed the plastic sleeve into the seal (you need to push one side in and let it get round after installing in the seal) and reinstalled tha cover.



I think it was a week (might have been 2) between the first and second time (probably about 200-300 miles). I did have a another new seal on hand just in case but I didn't need it. So far so good, no leaks. I just checked my oil level, I used to have to add a quart every 2000 miles or so, it has barely moved in 3k.



Yu could probably get by with reusing the front gasket but mine was sealed to the cover and I didn't think it would seal right.



The second time I had the timing cover off in under 45 minutes. Thant includes removing the rediator shroud.
 
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