Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) dowl pin news flash!!!!!!!

[JIM S.]

yea. . your all probably tired of hearing about it, but... ... my KDP got mugged,raped,beaten up and murdered today!!!!! and I feel great about it!!!! #ad
it was a strugle at times but all is good unless the seal decides to have an issue. . hope not!. the scary part is that it was out about 1/8" #ad
and i put the little seal on the inside as a slinger. and also since it has not been mentioned yet the plastic seal guide works very slick... just put it on the seal so that the belled end goes on the crank and slide it on... good luck to all . . it feels great to have done #ad
!! Jim

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1995, 2500, 4x4, 3. 54, auto,130,000 miles, custom fuel plate, boost and EGT gauges, 215 HP injectors, RE-0880, custom 4" from down pipe.

 

[JStordahl]

Jim: When I bought my seal kit at Cummins, I asked the service writer about the extra rubber sealing ring. He told me it is a dust seal and goes on last, so that's where I put mine. I hope he was right.

 

[SMorneau]

Cummins (1-800-diesels) told me it went on the outside to help keep dirt away from the seal. He had a name for the seal, but my memory fails me. I also thought it was a slinger and figure it will work as one.

The Dodge tech says he staked and locked tited the dowel in and it was, at 187K miles, right where it was supposed to be.

 

[JIM S.]

I dont see how it would work to be on the outside... when i checked mine to see it had a big gap between the little seal and the housing, so dirt would just go right in anyway... but seems like its not biggy since hundreds/thousands have worked with one at all. . Jim

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1995, 2500, 4x4, 3. 54, auto,130,000 miles, custom fuel plate, boost and EGT gauges, 215 HP injectors, RE-0880, custom 4" from down pipe.

 

[RBrush]

I bought the Seal Kit and Gasket yesterday, and also stoped by the service department to talk to a tech. (Cummins Portland) He also said the little black doodad was to keep the dust out, and it goes on the outside. Sounds like an easy install.

Rich

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96 regular cab, driftwood,5speed,3. 54's, weld wheels, window tint,amsoil,Dual remote bypass, preluber, K&N,Horton on order. BOMBing to proceed soon.

 

[Extreme1]

As I am leaving on a trip to California in a few weeks, I need to do something about this soon. It appears that there are two problems, some bad pins (undersized) and the timing cover alignment hole bored through in the cover. (Correct me if I'm wrong. )

It appears I have 3 options:

1) Replace the cover with a new, updated version. (Has anybody priced one yet?

2) Remove the cover and either:
A) Lock-tite/stake the pin in.
B) Add a washer to retain it.
C) Replace the dowl pin with a new (tight) one.

3) Perform the CPFF KDP Jig fix (if I could get one in time).

I'm not really up for drilling a hole in the cover or adding the washer. A trip to the dealer might change my mind though.

So, lets hear it. How much is the cover, and/or why not just adhere/stake it in place? I realize the potential if it falls out.

Edit: Upon closer examination of the pictures (Thanks CPFF!) the new cover (rear) is off the list of options. When bottomed out, can it be staked in? I need a front seal anyway. #ad


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'94 3500 4x4, 212,000 miles, Goerend Brothers Torque Convertor + VB Mods, TST #5 plate, 215's, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9k's w/remote, Isspro Gauges & Amsoil everything.
Punchlist: 14 cm Turbo Housing.
NRA member.
Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"I am my own performance station"

[This message has been edited by Extreme1 (edited 05-31-2001). ]

 

[Joe G.]

The cover ain't the problem. It's the gear case. That's what has been updated and it's a major job to remove and replace. The cam has to come out which means that the front of the truck has to come off! That's why the repair is so expensive if the pin breaks up the gear case. Removing and replacing the pin is almost impossible since even if it protrudes a little you can't get hold of it. So you are stuck with 2(A) or (B) and 3 as choices.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver, KDP 160,000-NM-WT Insurance

 

[Extreme1]

Got it, thanks Joe. Did you replace the bolt with a longer one when you did yours?

 

[Joe G.]

Yep, the original is just barely long enuff to work without the tab. In fact, mine was just barely tight. It might have fallen out and messed up the works like the pin does before much longer. That would have been a butt burner if the bolt fell out and the pin didn't!

 

[Extreme1]

OK, looks like a stake/loctite with a washer tab as a plan B when I get into it. Thank you to evryone for their work on this, especially CPFF!

Does anyone know what size (longer) bolt I need for the washer tab?

 

[R.ebel]

The size bolt to use is M8x1. 25x25mm

 

[Noseridorr]

Well, I finally dove into fix the KDP with loctite and a washer tab today, now it looks like I am going to have to finish it tomorrow. Toughest part for me so far was getting the **** washer tank off. Otherwise it has gone pretty smoothly. Took the cover off the pin is still in, but it was out between 1/8 and 1/4". Tried to pound it in flush, but still not there. Is it supposed to be dead flush? Anyways I loctited and went to replace the crankshaft seal, but looked and the seal has a nick/bend in it I am going to have to wait to get a good one tomorrow, and when I am in there I will get the bigger bolt and make a tab for it too. I cleaned the seal of the timing gear box and knocked a small amount of dirt into the case, small enough that I could get it all with a paper towel, but I was wondering would it be wise to clean it with some brake or electronic cleaner? I would like to be safer than sorry, but do not know what the impications of taking this cleaning route would be. Otherwise that is where my truck sits for night, I will write back tomorrow and let you know how it finished up. Thanks, Jason Orr

 

[Extreme1]

Thanks R. ebel!

Noseridorr,
I have wrestled with that one on several occasions. My theory is that if you got it, you got it. If you drain the lube and start spraying cleaner in there (rinsing it out method), you will end up with a small amount of cleaner in there. Probably not enough to worry about. The materials are pretty light that make it up and would evaporate out quickly.

(I once did a crankshaft and repaired one rod on a T/A. The converter was plugged for many miles and the whole interior of the engine had gritty crud stuck to it. Due to time limitations (longer story) I rinsed the whole thing out, worked good. )

If it is a small area, spray a lint free rag with the cleaner and wipe it out with that. I use Scott towels-I work for the manufacturer AND they are a heavy ONE ply (no glue) towel.

 

[DODGEDADDIE]

DOWEL PIN BOLT

HOW LONG IS THE 10mm BOLT THAT you use with the washer to cover the pin??



What is ever one paying for the cover gasket and the crank seal? $32 and $49 here in Maine.



Mike In Maine

 

[illflem]

The size bolt to use is M8x1. 25x25mm

 

[JoshPeters]

Speaking of the KDP, Anyone in Minnesota or Western Wisconsin that needs to get this fix done, July 19th in Ramsey MN at my place. Take a look in the Central forum for all the details.

 

[TPCDrafting]

The bolt wasn't readily available in my small town. I ended up calling an outfit called Fastenal Co. they are a chain I think. They had to order them and it took a few days. Less than $0. 20 each.



I couldn't have done mine without R. ebel.

 

[JNailor]

When I did mine, I used steel shim stock about . 028 or . 030 and the stock bolt. Also, my gasket was perfect so I just brushed on a thin coat of avation permatex. I did use a new seal.

 

[gcorron]

I used the washer from Cummins when I fixed mine, it was only somewhere around $2. 00. It was made of thin stainless and I used the stock bolt and loctite.

 

[Ben Rumson]

I have Complete Instructions and Parts Numbers

For anyone interested, I have a complete listing of part numbers and prices for fixing the KDP using the TAB method. I've complied pieces of information, pics, tricks, etc on the subject for some time. I've personally fixed 4 KDP's using the tab method. Each time I learn a little bit better way of removing and reinstalling everything.



PM me with your E-MAIL address if your interested in a few WORD documents and I'll forward them to you.



I'm heading to No. Wyoming for the weekend in about an hour, but could send the stuff to you Monday morning.



If you haven't fixed your KDP yet, you're taking a big risk!



- Ben