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Competition Drag Racing Teqhnique/Tips

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Hi everyone, searched forums for a while, but couldnt find what i need.

I plan on dragging the truck a bit this summer, but need some advice.

Not doing any mods to it FOR racing, just want to be able to destroy all of my friends cars and trucks on the strip. What do i need to know??

In experimenting, i've been able to get the boost PSI to 8 without lighting the tires standing still, but they still spin once i let off the brake. How much will being on the track change my traction? What rpm/boost psi do i want to launch from? How far down should i be able to take the pedal? Read about 4wd launches as well... ??? pretty much just need the basics so i can fly the first run, without experimenting. Thanks!!!
 
You will probobly fry the tires in 2wd even at the drag strip. Put it in 4wd and see how much you think your driveline will hold :D
 
Hehe, it wouldnt be the first time. But thats usually just to watch the audi and subaru drivers mouths drop in winter. Would i have a chance in 4X?
 
#1) Launch in 4hi

#2) Leave it in 4wd



You are just asking to destroy a t-case shifting down the track. Build about 10lbs of boost then go. You will be able to build more in 4wd but, it will only take it so many times before you are walking home. :{
 
Sounds good... thanks for the tips!!!!

Can't wait to see everyones faces once the smoke clears.

When i tell my buddies what this truck can do. . they laugh... .

Until they get in it with me.

Anything else i should know of... . really simple or not???

Thanks again
 
Just remember, that if you launch too hard, you will probably break a drive shaft or an input shaft. Either way you are walking home. These trucks will do amazing things, but they can and do break. Every time you upgrade something, you tend to find the next weakest link.



Dennis
 
Sounds good... thanks for the tips!!!!

Can't wait to see everyones faces once the smoke clears.

When i tell my buddies what this truck can do. . they laugh... .

Until they get in it with me.

Anything else i should know of... . really simple or not???

Thanks again



Consistency is your friend. :)
  • Drive around the water box, if possible, and straighten out
  • Shift into 4x4, then backup and forward once to ensure 4x4 is fully engaged
  • Run it up to 10 PSI boost, then pre-stage, every time
  • Slip just into the second bulb the same distance every time
  • Hold 10 PSI boost
  • When the lights start, count 1-and-2-and; practice by watching the lights of the racers in front of you. Learn the spot in your counting cadence that gives you the lowest reaction time. For my 17. 1 sec truck, it was usually around the beginning of the A or N of the first 'and'; when it was an 18. 1 sec truck, it was usually around the beginning of the N or D of the first 'and'.
  • When you launch, release the brake and quickly ease the go pedal to the floor; matting the pedal should take about a 1/2 sec.
  • After the 1/4 (or 1/8), ease off the go pedal, apply the brakes; when you're down to about 60 MPH or so, shift out of 4x4 and ease on and off the fuel to remove tension from the drivetrain so 4x4 fully releases. Stay on the brake the whole time.
Learn to do all these things exactly the same way every time and you will win, at least in bracket racing. Heads-up is slightly different, but you probably won't be running in any heads-up classes. Taking a 1/2 second to mat the go pedal will help to keep unexpected features (like auto-maintenance disassembly) from showing up in your truck. Again, remember that consistency is your friend.



One thing I haven't tried is finding the RPM at 10 PSI boost, then launching at that RPM every time, regardless of boost; it could be that consistent launch RPM is better than consistent launch boost.



Good luck! And let us know how you do!
 
Amen, consistency is your friend. If only I could find some. Of course two . 504 launches in a row wasn't bad either. Too bad I can't repeat it now.



LOL
 
Always leave on the last yellow, I leave at around 10-15psi. I have tried as much as 35-40 spi launches, but those netted me NO gain in elapsed time. I guess the low-end torque pulls you out of the hole faster, plus it is easier on your transmission, and other parts.



Mikey
 
Consistency is your friend. :)
  • Drive around the water box, if possible, and straighten out
  • Shift into 4x4, then backup and forward once to ensure 4x4 is fully engaged
  • Run it up to 10 PSI boost, then pre-stage, every time
  • Slip just into the second bulb the same distance every time
  • Hold 10 PSI boost
  • When the lights start, count 1-and-2-and; practice by watching the lights of the racers in front of you. Learn the spot in your counting cadence that gives you the lowest reaction time. For my 17. 1 sec truck, it was usually around the beginning of the A or N of the first 'and'; when it was an 18. 1 sec truck, it was usually around the beginning of the N or D of the first 'and'.
  • When you launch, release the brake and quickly ease the go pedal to the floor; matting the pedal should take about a 1/2 sec.
  • After the 1/4 (or 1/8), ease off the go pedal, apply the brakes; when you're down to about 60 MPH or so, shift out of 4x4 and ease on and off the fuel to remove tension from the drivetrain so 4x4 fully releases. Stay on the brake the whole time.
Learn to do all these things exactly the same way every time and you will win, at least in bracket racing. Heads-up is slightly different, but you probably won't be running in any heads-up classes. Taking a 1/2 second to mat the go pedal will help to keep unexpected features (like auto-maintenance disassembly) from showing up in your truck. Again, remember that consistency is your friend.



One thing I haven't tried is finding the RPM at 10 PSI boost, then launching at that RPM every time, regardless of boost; it could be that consistent launch RPM is better than consistent launch boost.



Good luck! And let us know how you do!





Thanks a lot... thats pretty much what i needed... a crash course. I assume the water box is where you smoke your tires up before you line up?? I DON'T want to warm up the rubber??



Lets just hope i don't drop my stock transmission at 360k KM's :eek:
 
yes when the last yellow light go don't time the light though just as soon as you see the last yellow light light up go you should get . 5's and low . 6's every time depending on you reaction to the last light.
 
I DON'T want to warm up the rubber??



Doing a big smokey burnout with street tires just makes them like ice ;)



If anything, back up to just in front of the water box, after you have driven around it, and just break the tires loose enough to clean the dirt off of them. :) Then DON'T FORGET to put it in 4wd!!:eek: LOL
 
Why not shift out of 4wd on during the 1/4?



One, because it really doesn't buy you anything in bracket racing. Two, you can shift the lever out of 4X4 and nothing will happen because the drivetrain is under significant tension and won't release anyway. On the highway at 50-70 MPH, I will can shift into or out of 4X4 (dry, wet or snowy), and it won't engage/disengage until I equalize the driveline pressures (i. e. , neutral the tension by easing off the go pedal until the force into the xfer case equals force out) a time or two. Try it. Dodges are 50/50 front/rear; on a straight road (dry, wet or snowy), you can't hurt anything *under normal driving conditions*. Try this: curl your index fingers and pull them together so they form an 'S'. Pull hard, and see if you can slide the fingers off each other. Then remove the tension and see how much easier it is to slide the fingers off each other. If you've ever driven a stick, remember that you can't shift gears while accelerating, but as soon as you let off the go pedal, it slides right out of gear into neutral. The xfer case is much the same way.



Now that I think about it a bit, y'all might want to mash down on the stop pedal to slow down, then release it before disengaging 4x4 on the strip. Why? Hard braking will reduce the radius/diameter of the front tires (the weight has shifted onto the front tires and off the rear) increase that of the rear tires, thus changing the tension on the driveline. This may help offset the reverse condition that happens whilst accelerating. And this may explain why 4x4 sometimes wouldn't disengage until after I'd turn onto the return road, and futzed with 4x4 some more.



Whatever you do, *don't* stop on the track to disengage 4x4. You'll rarely have to make a hard, sharp turn to get onto the return road, so unwanted stresses on the drivetrain are reasonably minimal. While you wouldn't want to drive around town in 4x4 on dry roads, the occasional sweeping turn off a drag strip won't be that bad. Always get off the strip before stopping to disengage 4x4 or make other necessary adjustments.



Oh, and if you ever have a malfunction of any kind, always pull over to the side of the strip immediately and stop as soon as you safely can. You'll minimize potential fluid leakage and minimize cleanup time. Nothing's worse than a one-hour shutdown to clean up a 1,000' oil/coolant spill. Even if you don't have a leak, everyone else will thank you for stopping to check.



You know, thinking back, my asthmatic '98 12V would spin my 225/70/19. 5 tires a little off the line (maybe 10'), but it never made *that* much difference in my ET, before or after the purple parts were installed in the trans. Until you get up into the 12-15 sec range, traction isn't *that* big of a deal. And in bracket racing, it really doesn't matter. So what if you ease off the line. What matters in bracket racing is that you ease off the line the same way every time.



Oh, and don't pay too much attention to all the HP junkies who will try to talk you into high power. Take advantage of your low power and learn to be consistent first. "Grasshopper, I know. You want to race with the wind. But Grasshopper, you must learn to crawl before you can stand, stand before you can walk, walk before you can trot, trot before you can run, and run before you can sprint. When you can sprint in a typhoon, then you will be racing with the wind. " Remember who won the bracket race at the Hayes race at Hotlanta in '01 or '02: our very own lead moderator Steve StL, in a stock 1500 gasser (TDR's 3rd-gen test mule). He'd pull up to the line, stand on the brake, mat the gas pedal, break out the day's newspaper and read it, then launch. He was 0. 001 off his dial. Runner-up was 0. 002 off *his* dial. Consistency is the key. As in anything (e. g. cabinet making, softball, sex), learn to do it well before you try to do it fast, and you will enjoy it that much more.



Last check list items: close your windows and fasten your seat belt. And *never* run your A/C before or during a drag race, unless you explicitly run the condensate inside the cab into a catch bottle: water on the track is spelled D-A-N-G-E-R, just like oil and coolant.
 
fest3r...

thanks again... appreciate all the advice. Gonna be a fun weekend!!

any idea what time this thing will run??



Based on what's in your . sig, I'd venture to guess 16. 5-17 seconds. I'm assuming you have a little more power than my asthmatic '98 12V has: stock plate slid forward, AFC adjusted for minimal smoke, ATS TC & VB, 3K GSK, 215 HP injectors. Considering the purple trans parts dropped me from 18. 1 to 17. 1, and figuring I'm around 180HP to the ground, you might see 16. 5 sec. Maybe. Depends on how well your TC connects. Mine doesn't lock up until about 10' before the 1/4 traps, so it's all fluid coupling. As they say, your mileage may vary. :)



In your 'playing', remember that pushing past the P7100's 'breakover' loses power. Pushing the pedal right to the point of resistance (where the rack won't travel any further without more air/RPM) will get you your best power. Pushing past the breakover lets the rack slip back a little, causing a noticeable reduction in power. With practice, your foot will feel where it is.



Above all, remember to have fun, even when your eyes, brain and foot don't sync up perfectly. That comes with practice; practice results in consistency; and consistency results in wins (in bracket racing). Win or lose, if you have fun, you'll go back. And when you aren't in the staging lanes, wander around and chat with other folks in the pits. You're there for the racing, but it's the people that make the event memorable. So forget the 3 or 4 old grouches you encounter, and enjoy the people and the racing. You only need to be dead serious for about a minute when you stage, launch and race; you should be having fun the rest of the time.



N
 
Alright, i need some more tips!!!

Since i posted all these questions, i did a 3K GSK

I've decided that i only want to launch in 2wd, as i don't really want to break anything, and i can seem to launch and keep the tires from spinning, while still hauling some serious ***. Having the 3k GSK now, would it be worthwhile to launch with OD off, get the full powerband, then hit OD back on for the rest of tyhe run? I can seem to time this pretty well, but not really sure what kind of difference it makes. Or should i just mat the pedal and hold her straight?

I'm itching to get this thing on the track :mad:



Thanks

Corey
 
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