02 H. O. 6 spd. : 5 years is up on the current anti-freeze and so the question is ; does the system drain like the maint-manual says? Dodge says to start the engine and turn the heater temp control to high then shut off the engine. Procede to drain the radiator without loosening the radiator cap. Does all of the coolant drain back out of the engine block? Thanks in advance to anyone who'd like to share their experiences.
-
TDR Magazine subscribers receive more than the magazine! You also gain additional forum privileges!
Details here: TDR Privileges
Subscribe to TDR Magazine here: https://www.tdr-online.com/
Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Drain and Refill coolant system
- Thread starter aviatorman
- Start Date
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.
Thanks, TDR Staff
- Status
When I drain the radiator I take the cap off because I'm going to remove and clean the overflow tank anyway. There's usually a lot of crud in there I don't want to suck into the radiator. Put jackstands under the rear axles to drain all the old stuff out. Grab the plastic drainspout and pull and turn CCW. If it's been 5 years since you changed antifreeze the O ring may stick and self destruct on the way out, have a new one handy. Dispose of the old antifreeze in a enviromentally sound manner:-laf I don't know why they say to turn the heater control to the hot setting,as far as I know hot water is always going through the heater housing?
George
George
Last edited:
Coolant system flush - "The Novel"
Agree with georgej. Additionally, this last time I did mine (week before last) I removed the radiator. It's not has hard as you may think. First, 1/2 turn on plug (driver side lower) then pull out (it won't come all the way out unless you turn more and pull - it's OK to leave in this position) it's preferable to have a clear hose attached to the nipple going to the drain pan. Once it's drained remove top hose from radiator and T-Stat housing, then the fun part remove bottom hose - the biggest difficulty will be getting it loose from the nipple on the block. Be patient and persistant, I found removing the air tube to the turbo and the oil filter very helpfull to access the area where the hose enters the block. I used a smooth tool with a bent head to work between the nipple on the block and hose (a strong coat hanger - bent so you are not sticking a sharp end between nipple and hose - poking a hole in the hose) working it around then if need be shoot some WD-40 or the like in the void where you had the tool. Work it around the hose until it comes loose and remove. Beleive me this is the worst part. Remove the wires to the windshield washer motor and level sensor, then (best if tank is empty) remove the hose from the bottom of the pump. The waser fluid stings when you get it in your eyes so be carefull - don't ask how I know this. Then remove the tank - it has two tabs coming off the tank between the shroud which slide down and lock when you install - between the two tabs on the tank is a bump which locks it from sliding up when installed - you'll need a stubby wide flat tip screw driver to get between the tank and shroud - pry gently on the shroud then slide the tank up. Same deal for the coolant resivoir minus the wires and hose - just remove the hose from the fill neck on the radiator do the pry tab thing and pull it up. I cleaned both tanks inside and out with Simple Green and a garden hose once they were out. Now that the hoses and tanks are out of the way there are two or three clips on top of the radiator that hold the top of the shroud tight to the radiator. Simply pry with a small thin blade screwdriver making sure not to loose them. Then on each side of the shroud there are two small bolts (4 total) that unsecure the shroud from the radiator. Once the bolts are out the shroud needs to be lifter about an inch or so to release from the tabs on the bottom that hold it in place on the radiator. Once it's loos slide it to the engine working it around the fan and leave it there. Now the radiator - I forget if there's two or four bolts but, they're easy to see on the sides of the radiator, remove them and the radiator should be loose in the body. If there are only two then once they're out lift the radiator about an inch to relaese the tabs at the bottom (I forget exactly). Now that everything is loose you may wish to get someone to help lift the radiator out and gently lay it down engine fan side up. Spray some Simple Green or other degreeaser on the side that's up and allow it to soak thru, with a garden hose on "fan" not "stream" rinse it thru (from fan side to forward facing side) this will help remove the bulk of the junk caught on the inlet side that you just can't seem to get out when the radiator is in the body. Simple Green again same side and repeat rinse. Flip it over so the inlet side is up and brush off the debris that is present then repeat the cleaning process 2 - 3 times as needed. Now remove the end from the garden hose and stick it in the bottom radiator hose nipple (flip the radiator so it's standing on the driver side end run the water until you see clear clean water coming out the top hose nipple by the filler neck (oh leave the radiator cap off). Then flip the radiator so the filler neck and bottom niple are on the ground (passenger side down) continue to flush through the radiator hose nipple. Repeat this a few times until you are seeing nothing but clear water coming out. Beleive me it's worth it! Now the last step on the radiator cleaning _ I got some Eagle One brushed aluminum wheel cleaner (etching) as it has the mose acid content without being too strong and with the radiator lying on the ground fan side up I sprayed a nice coat of the cleaner on the fins - trying to stay away from the plastic tank ends and the rubber seals therein. Using a soft bristle hand brush I worked the now foaming cleaner into the fins, going with the grain, then rinsed - repeat once then flip so the inlet side is up repeat the same process making sure to throughly rinse all debris and cleaner out. Repeat and then completely rinse both sides with the garden hose nozzle off until the radiator is almost like new!!!
Now the engine and heater core.
Remove both hoses from the heater core to engine and, with medium pressure, run water through one hose of the heater core until clear water runs out the other side, then repeat at the other hose. Do this at least two times until you are satisfied you've gotten all the yuk out of the core - you'll thank yourself this winter when the heater works better than it has in years.
Now the engine. Run water thru the stub on top where the heater core connected until you see clear water run out of the bottom radiator hose nipple at the block then sitck the hose on the other heater core stub and repeat. You won't have any water come out the top T-Stat nipple because the stat is cold and closed. As I was filling the block (if you will) with the hose on the heater core to engine stub I held my hand over the bottom block nipple to allow water to fill and then removed my hand to help wisp any loose junk lying in pockets.
OK now put everything back together, Anti-Seize all bolt thereads (so two years from now you'll have an easy go at it) and a tip to make the hose installation go smoothly - a small bit of vasolene or white grease around the tip of the hose makes it easier to get back on. Don't worry they won't blow off as you are reusing the stock "constant pressure" clamps.
Replenishing the coolant. Go to the local Acme or whatever and get 3 gallons of "Deionized" water or water that you would use in a flat iron. What you are looking to do is not put tap or spring water in your coolant system - you want basically water that is devoid of all minerals etc. Mix a 50/50 solution of coolant and water - easiest way is to dump a gallon of strait coolant into the radiator then a gallon of the water. Use the empty container to mix your 50/50 water / coolant and take your time filling / topping the system off. once all the bubbles are gone from the radiator fill tube, fill the resivoir to the full mark on the side. Check all your bolts, hoses, tank connections, wires, belt, shroud and "is the cap in good shape?". If not replace with a matching type of cap - not one of those cheesy ones from the local Pep Boys or Auto Zone but as close to the stock one as possible. Chances are the stock cap is in good shape.
Now start'er up and allow to come to normal temps as you check for leaks etc. Take it for a ride allowing the stat to cycle a few times and check your coolant tank level if it's a tad high I'd leave it alone as you will work out small air pockets over the next 50 - 100 miles. Check it again after some miles are put on it and if too high syphon some out or add to appropriate level is obtained.
Now - notice how the temp gauge holds constant or only fluctuates a little when the stat opens up, notice how much hotter the heater air is, notice how much cooler the A/C feels and most of all how much happier the Cummins under the hood seems? If you have en EGT gauge you'll also notice a little reduction in your usual temps.
"S'all Gud, my brotha" and to think I didn't do this years ago . . .
Sorry for the length but, it's a good process and has a job length of duration rating of 3 - 5 beers - of course depending on how hot it is when you're doing the job.
Have fun!
Agree with georgej. Additionally, this last time I did mine (week before last) I removed the radiator. It's not has hard as you may think. First, 1/2 turn on plug (driver side lower) then pull out (it won't come all the way out unless you turn more and pull - it's OK to leave in this position) it's preferable to have a clear hose attached to the nipple going to the drain pan. Once it's drained remove top hose from radiator and T-Stat housing, then the fun part remove bottom hose - the biggest difficulty will be getting it loose from the nipple on the block. Be patient and persistant, I found removing the air tube to the turbo and the oil filter very helpfull to access the area where the hose enters the block. I used a smooth tool with a bent head to work between the nipple on the block and hose (a strong coat hanger - bent so you are not sticking a sharp end between nipple and hose - poking a hole in the hose) working it around then if need be shoot some WD-40 or the like in the void where you had the tool. Work it around the hose until it comes loose and remove. Beleive me this is the worst part. Remove the wires to the windshield washer motor and level sensor, then (best if tank is empty) remove the hose from the bottom of the pump. The waser fluid stings when you get it in your eyes so be carefull - don't ask how I know this. Then remove the tank - it has two tabs coming off the tank between the shroud which slide down and lock when you install - between the two tabs on the tank is a bump which locks it from sliding up when installed - you'll need a stubby wide flat tip screw driver to get between the tank and shroud - pry gently on the shroud then slide the tank up. Same deal for the coolant resivoir minus the wires and hose - just remove the hose from the fill neck on the radiator do the pry tab thing and pull it up. I cleaned both tanks inside and out with Simple Green and a garden hose once they were out. Now that the hoses and tanks are out of the way there are two or three clips on top of the radiator that hold the top of the shroud tight to the radiator. Simply pry with a small thin blade screwdriver making sure not to loose them. Then on each side of the shroud there are two small bolts (4 total) that unsecure the shroud from the radiator. Once the bolts are out the shroud needs to be lifter about an inch or so to release from the tabs on the bottom that hold it in place on the radiator. Once it's loos slide it to the engine working it around the fan and leave it there. Now the radiator - I forget if there's two or four bolts but, they're easy to see on the sides of the radiator, remove them and the radiator should be loose in the body. If there are only two then once they're out lift the radiator about an inch to relaese the tabs at the bottom (I forget exactly). Now that everything is loose you may wish to get someone to help lift the radiator out and gently lay it down engine fan side up. Spray some Simple Green or other degreeaser on the side that's up and allow it to soak thru, with a garden hose on "fan" not "stream" rinse it thru (from fan side to forward facing side) this will help remove the bulk of the junk caught on the inlet side that you just can't seem to get out when the radiator is in the body. Simple Green again same side and repeat rinse. Flip it over so the inlet side is up and brush off the debris that is present then repeat the cleaning process 2 - 3 times as needed. Now remove the end from the garden hose and stick it in the bottom radiator hose nipple (flip the radiator so it's standing on the driver side end run the water until you see clear clean water coming out the top hose nipple by the filler neck (oh leave the radiator cap off). Then flip the radiator so the filler neck and bottom niple are on the ground (passenger side down) continue to flush through the radiator hose nipple. Repeat this a few times until you are seeing nothing but clear water coming out. Beleive me it's worth it! Now the last step on the radiator cleaning _ I got some Eagle One brushed aluminum wheel cleaner (etching) as it has the mose acid content without being too strong and with the radiator lying on the ground fan side up I sprayed a nice coat of the cleaner on the fins - trying to stay away from the plastic tank ends and the rubber seals therein. Using a soft bristle hand brush I worked the now foaming cleaner into the fins, going with the grain, then rinsed - repeat once then flip so the inlet side is up repeat the same process making sure to throughly rinse all debris and cleaner out. Repeat and then completely rinse both sides with the garden hose nozzle off until the radiator is almost like new!!!
Now the engine and heater core.
Remove both hoses from the heater core to engine and, with medium pressure, run water through one hose of the heater core until clear water runs out the other side, then repeat at the other hose. Do this at least two times until you are satisfied you've gotten all the yuk out of the core - you'll thank yourself this winter when the heater works better than it has in years.
Now the engine. Run water thru the stub on top where the heater core connected until you see clear water run out of the bottom radiator hose nipple at the block then sitck the hose on the other heater core stub and repeat. You won't have any water come out the top T-Stat nipple because the stat is cold and closed. As I was filling the block (if you will) with the hose on the heater core to engine stub I held my hand over the bottom block nipple to allow water to fill and then removed my hand to help wisp any loose junk lying in pockets.
OK now put everything back together, Anti-Seize all bolt thereads (so two years from now you'll have an easy go at it) and a tip to make the hose installation go smoothly - a small bit of vasolene or white grease around the tip of the hose makes it easier to get back on. Don't worry they won't blow off as you are reusing the stock "constant pressure" clamps.
Replenishing the coolant. Go to the local Acme or whatever and get 3 gallons of "Deionized" water or water that you would use in a flat iron. What you are looking to do is not put tap or spring water in your coolant system - you want basically water that is devoid of all minerals etc. Mix a 50/50 solution of coolant and water - easiest way is to dump a gallon of strait coolant into the radiator then a gallon of the water. Use the empty container to mix your 50/50 water / coolant and take your time filling / topping the system off. once all the bubbles are gone from the radiator fill tube, fill the resivoir to the full mark on the side. Check all your bolts, hoses, tank connections, wires, belt, shroud and "is the cap in good shape?". If not replace with a matching type of cap - not one of those cheesy ones from the local Pep Boys or Auto Zone but as close to the stock one as possible. Chances are the stock cap is in good shape.
Now start'er up and allow to come to normal temps as you check for leaks etc. Take it for a ride allowing the stat to cycle a few times and check your coolant tank level if it's a tad high I'd leave it alone as you will work out small air pockets over the next 50 - 100 miles. Check it again after some miles are put on it and if too high syphon some out or add to appropriate level is obtained.
Now - notice how the temp gauge holds constant or only fluctuates a little when the stat opens up, notice how much hotter the heater air is, notice how much cooler the A/C feels and most of all how much happier the Cummins under the hood seems? If you have en EGT gauge you'll also notice a little reduction in your usual temps.
"S'all Gud, my brotha" and to think I didn't do this years ago . . .
Sorry for the length but, it's a good process and has a job length of duration rating of 3 - 5 beers - of course depending on how hot it is when you're doing the job.
Have fun!
I just did mine last week. I used AMSOIL coolant. It is good for 250,000 miles. So far so good. I went on a 900 mile road trip last Friday in almost 90* temps and it didn't go over the 190* mark. When I changed mine I also took out my radiator and cleaned the GUNK out of the fins. It was NASTY!! Well worth the extra time and effort to take it out and clean it. -Jason
That is what I used. 64 cents a gallon at Wal*Mart. I got 4 gallons and only used 3. But I will be changing the JEEPS soon. -Jason
I'm not sure if anyone has answered your original question. If the truck is setting on level ground, yes, the coolant will all be drained if you follow the Service Manual procedure.
I follow this with a distilled water flush and then make a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol (same as factory fill) coolant and refill the system. Be careful about the choice of coolant. Unless you are a chemist and familiar with all the system components you should probably not deviate from factory recommendations. After all, they built it and know all materials used in the construction of the vehicle. Any aftermarket solution has the desire to sell their product, and may not actually have the best product for your needs or your best interests at heart.
I follow this with a distilled water flush and then make a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol (same as factory fill) coolant and refill the system. Be careful about the choice of coolant. Unless you are a chemist and familiar with all the system components you should probably not deviate from factory recommendations. After all, they built it and know all materials used in the construction of the vehicle. Any aftermarket solution has the desire to sell their product, and may not actually have the best product for your needs or your best interests at heart.
I have been running it for about 2 years now. It is a pretty Cummins blue:-laf.
When I first bought it at Cummins in Phoenix I think it was somewhere in the $8. 50 a gallon. I picked up 2 gallons about 6 months ago and it increased to about $12. 00 a gallon
. Dave
Just for everyone's info, Fleetguard has two (at least) different types of "blue" coolant. ES Compleat Ethylene Glycol (Part # CC 2820 Concentrate) and ES Complete Propylene Glycol (CC 2835 Pre Mix 50/50) (CC 2830 Concentrate). The Propylene Glycol is the type they were talking about in the TDR. Local Cummins price for the PG 50/50 is $13. 89/gal.
- Status
Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
Turbo Diesel Register
Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
