Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Funny, huh? Here are some tips that I learned while prepping my truck for this year's camping season. I hope that these will help some of you out, since I have learned a ton from you all since buying my truck. Thanks!
- SuperGlide install. The centerline of your bed is the key dimension from which to measure all other dimensions in your bed before drilling. PullRite's installation instructions read like a puzzle, and they leave this bit of information unwritten. Dodge made finding the bed centerline easy, though, by providing an oblong hole at the front center of the bed. I anchored the end of my chalk line in this hole and went to work. The rest of PullRite's positioning procedures made sense, once I figured out the centerline puzzle, but PulllRite's measurements for the rear holes were 3/8" too far rearward for my truck. I think that Klenger has a tip that helped me with this, which is to put duct tape over the frame bracket hole before drilling your pilot hole. This way, you know how far off of center from the frame bracket hole your pilot holes are. Also, another member recommmended drilling a hole with your hole saw in a scrap board, then use that board as a guide. This helped me, because the scallops in the bed floor would have made drilling with a hole saw a real pain without the guide.
- Backup light install. I used JCrocett's setup with a double pole / double throw switch, so that I can have full control of my backup lights. I wired the reverse light to the switch by tapping into the reverse light switch wire near the top of my G56 on the driver's side. On a 2003, the reverse light wire is black/violet. (I double checked on my service manual CD, which I bought on ebay for about ten bucks - maybe the best money I spent since buying my truck).
- AirLiift airbags. Planning this out took more time thann the installl. I mounted the compressor under the rear passenger side seat to keep it out of the weather. There is a plug in the floor under the seat that made routing the airlines easy, and I ran the wiring in the wiring channel under the carpet on the passenger side. I cut a bunch of 3-4 inch sections of 5/16 fuel line, split them, then wrapped and cable tied these sections around the airline where it contacted the frame. Careful, there is NO extra airline, so make one run at a time, and make each run as short as possible before cutting your line.
- Painless fuse block. I mounted mine to the steel cross member that is behind the fascia beneath the steering wheel. I only mounted two of the fuse block feet. One foot I screwed through an existing hole in the cross member. The other I mounted with a self-tapping screw, which grounded the fuse block well.
- Auxilliary fuel tank. I bought Northern Tool's 50 gallon tool-and-fuel model, made by RDS. I installed the tank in my bed, and connected it to my fuel system with Northern's (RDS) gravity feed kit. I leav e the petcock open all of the time, and haven't had any trouble, yet. The heart of the gravity system is a float valve that controls fuel flow into the filler neck. I routed the fuel line from the auxilliary petcock, through a plastic plug in the front of the bed on the driver's side, then to the junction with the filller neck. This allowed me to minimize kinks in my fuel line.
- SuperGlide install. The centerline of your bed is the key dimension from which to measure all other dimensions in your bed before drilling. PullRite's installation instructions read like a puzzle, and they leave this bit of information unwritten. Dodge made finding the bed centerline easy, though, by providing an oblong hole at the front center of the bed. I anchored the end of my chalk line in this hole and went to work. The rest of PullRite's positioning procedures made sense, once I figured out the centerline puzzle, but PulllRite's measurements for the rear holes were 3/8" too far rearward for my truck. I think that Klenger has a tip that helped me with this, which is to put duct tape over the frame bracket hole before drilling your pilot hole. This way, you know how far off of center from the frame bracket hole your pilot holes are. Also, another member recommmended drilling a hole with your hole saw in a scrap board, then use that board as a guide. This helped me, because the scallops in the bed floor would have made drilling with a hole saw a real pain without the guide.
- Backup light install. I used JCrocett's setup with a double pole / double throw switch, so that I can have full control of my backup lights. I wired the reverse light to the switch by tapping into the reverse light switch wire near the top of my G56 on the driver's side. On a 2003, the reverse light wire is black/violet. (I double checked on my service manual CD, which I bought on ebay for about ten bucks - maybe the best money I spent since buying my truck).
- AirLiift airbags. Planning this out took more time thann the installl. I mounted the compressor under the rear passenger side seat to keep it out of the weather. There is a plug in the floor under the seat that made routing the airlines easy, and I ran the wiring in the wiring channel under the carpet on the passenger side. I cut a bunch of 3-4 inch sections of 5/16 fuel line, split them, then wrapped and cable tied these sections around the airline where it contacted the frame. Careful, there is NO extra airline, so make one run at a time, and make each run as short as possible before cutting your line.
- Painless fuse block. I mounted mine to the steel cross member that is behind the fascia beneath the steering wheel. I only mounted two of the fuse block feet. One foot I screwed through an existing hole in the cross member. The other I mounted with a self-tapping screw, which grounded the fuse block well.
- Auxilliary fuel tank. I bought Northern Tool's 50 gallon tool-and-fuel model, made by RDS. I installed the tank in my bed, and connected it to my fuel system with Northern's (RDS) gravity feed kit. I leav e the petcock open all of the time, and haven't had any trouble, yet. The heart of the gravity system is a float valve that controls fuel flow into the filler neck. I routed the fuel line from the auxilliary petcock, through a plastic plug in the front of the bed on the driver's side, then to the junction with the filller neck. This allowed me to minimize kinks in my fuel line.
