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Drive pressure/EGT sensor install???

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I have a 2012 3500 DRW. I'm looking to install these sensors on my truck with the factory EGR and cooler still in place. Is it ok to drill 2 holes into the exhaust manifold for this? Will I be risking a cracked manifold from the heat over time? Can anyone recommend another location for the sensors with keeping the factory equipment in place?

Thanks,
 
I would like to monitor these readings for towing through the mountains and such. I just like to see whats going on and want to understand diesels more. This is my first one and I'm courious. Just like when you add a tach or oil pressure gauges to a car that has idiot lights.
 
The problem is it will raise warranty issues. Some may think you did it so you could run a programmer. With a stock 6. 7 you don't need to monitor. Just so you go into it with what to expect
 
I'm not sure if tow holes would affect the manifold. In my 04. 5 diesel I had one hole with no long term affects. I had a full set of gauges (a total of four)and a monster exhaust (cat back) system. For years I never had a programmer . I had been to the dealer a number of times and nothing was ever said to me. I would check with the dealer to see if it would be a problem. But with these new trucks they can tell iff you have ever installed a programmer so that shouldn't be an issue. But you'd be more likely to void the manifold warranty if it should develope a crack. You could also use a product like the edge insight (gauge only) that monitors: Barometric Pressure, Battery Voltage, Boost, Calculated Load, Corrected Speed, DPF Pressure, Engine Coolant Temp, Engine Speed, Fuel Level, Fuel Rail Pressure, Gear with TCL, Intake Air Temp, Mileage Coach, MPG Instant, MPG Average, Post DOC EGT, Post DPF EGT, Post Nox EGT, Regeneration Status, Throttle Position, Time 0-60, Time 1/4 mile, Trans Temp, Vehicle Speed.
 
Cracking the manifold is not an issue The 59 and 67 are different animals when it comes to warranty. Nobody cared to the extent that it has come to on the 67
 
I figured I would void the manifold warranty, if it cracked. I just want to know is this the way to do it or some other way. I've read stories about towing through steep upgrades and the truck looses power due to the high demands put on it. I'm one of thoose people that likes to know whats going on. The diesel is very different than gas and I'm interested in learning more. I didn't realize I was taking a walk on the darkside...
 
I have a 2012 3500 DRW. I'm looking to install these sensors on my truck with the factory EGR and cooler still in place. Is it ok to drill 2 holes into the exhaust manifold for this? Will I be risking a cracked manifold from the heat over time? Can anyone recommend another location for the sensors with keeping the factory equipment in place?
Thanks,
some people tap into the turbo down pipe... if you don't want to touch the manifold... but if you do it right and carefully, there is no problems at all... short term or long term...
 
Cracking the manifold is not an issue The 59 and 67 are different animals when it comes to warranty. Nobody cared to the extent that it has come to on the 67



I completely agree. The diference is that you could hide the fact that a programmer was used on the 5. 9L and gauges would cause suspicion (because programmers were untraceable). On the 6. 7L if they were suspicious because of a warranty repair they could check to see if a programmer had been used . Because the programmers are not untraceable on the 6. 7L. That is exactly why my truck is 100% stock and will be that way until my extended 7year 100K warranty is up. Besides when I had all of the gauges I always fixated on the gauges instead of letting the engine do it's thing. So this time around since the truck is stock I'm letting it do it's thing.
 
I have a 2012 3500 DRW. I'm looking to install these sensors on my truck with the factory EGR and cooler still in place. Is it ok to drill 2 holes into the exhaust manifold for this? Will I be risking a cracked manifold from the heat over time? Can anyone recommend another location for the sensors with keeping the factory equipment in place?
Thanks,


It will be fine and will not crack, I would install one in the left outlet port and one on the right. Most aftermarket manifolds are pre-drilled.

I don't think the OP was asking for anyones permission or forgiveness, he wants to monitor his engine, a good thing.

As far as GVW or GCW's..... ??..... it just requires a different gear for a given grade or load, the EGT's are mostly the same. Just because the Cummins can pull, at say 1300*, maybe the OP would rather only pull at 1200, with a guage he can do that.

Nick
 
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All three of my Cummins-Dodges, an '01 HO/six speed, an '06 HPCR 5. 9, and my current '08 ISB6. 7 have had the exhaust manifold drilled dead center and none have ever cracked. The '01 had Bosch 275 RV injectors and produced higher than normal egts. It never cracked and now has about 360k miles.

Yes, of course, the warranty was voided on the exhaust manifold. I knew that when the manifold was drilled but it never mattered. Any dealer tech who can read the results of their in house computers can tell whether an ISB 6. 7 engine has been molested with a magic black box. Suspicion because of gauges and holes drilled in the manifold will not be sufficient to void an engine warranty if the engine has not been molested.

I have always liked having gauges and being able to monitor engine performance. It is true that gauges are not required on an unmolested Cummins engine but the same argument could be made for a coolant temp gauge. It is not needed as long as the engine is working normally but how about when the water pump suddenly begins leaking early on a long day of towing a heavy trailer and the driver is unaware of the leak? The temp gauge will tell him. Ditto an egt pyro gauge. My pyro and boost gauges ionce allowed me (years ago), with phone calls to Joe Donnelly and Bill Stockard, to identify a failed map sensor that my dealer could not diagnosis and was telling me nothing was wrong with my truck.

Drill the manifold with confidence. It is not necessary to remove it from the engine just keep as much of the cuttings outside the manifold as possible while drilling. A few small bits of drill cuttings will only be on the exhaust side of the turbo and will be immediately blown out when you start it. All three of mine were drilled with manifold on the engine.
 
Thanks for everyone's input, those are all helpful answers. Bob4x4, I understand your concerns and I appreciate it. Being a rookie dosen't mean I'm young, nor did you or me apply that. It just comes with the territory. I understand there will be spikes in coolant, trans and EGT, etc. and some people, it would leave them un-easy, these spikes I know are just spikes. As you know, from what I've read, the 6. 7 runs a little hotter in all departments than the 5. 9 and is considered normal. I have read that some 5. 9ers have bought the new 6. 7 and have freaked out at the higher temps and even to the point of installing cooler stats. I've been doing a lot of research on the subject and I'm really fasinated with the diesel. I just want to learn more.

One other point is, why do some people do an oil analysis? Because it tells them whats going on internally and can spot trouble, hopefully before it happens.
 
"Why do some people do an oil analysis?"

I've often wondered the same thing. I just change the oil with good quality oil and Fleetguard filters every 10k and never worry about the oil. It's worked well for me for 700,000 miles so far.
 
why do some people do an oil analysis? Because it tells them whats going on internally and can spot trouble, hopefully before it happens.
that is why people do for, i have yet to do mine, but im only under 70,000 miles... .
 
Doing oil analysis without a good history is like starting in the middle of an experiment and taking your results as gospel. LOL.



Similiar to stationary electric motor/ pump vibration analysis. Useless with out a good trend before questionable results are found.
 
Oil analysis is for a filter bypass, where the oil is filtered through a better filter and then returned to the crankcase allowing longer run times on the same oil, as long as the report comes back OK. As far as drilling into the exhaust, you can get away with it sometimes, but it can damage your Turbo and I will remove mine when its time to add a EGT. In fact I have received my EGT setup in the mail and when I do the clutch it will be done at that time. I wonder what rusted shavings do to a DPF?
 
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This is an entertaining thread. I understand wanting to learn about your truck but let's say you are towing up a mild grade the truck is in regen. How much will the pyro help? The CACs are small now to make the regens shal we say easier with less wasted fuel. What ever the temp is it is. How will you decide what temp is good vs not good. You have

No published numbers to work from so like this thread it will be for entertainment. Enjoy
 
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