DRIVE PRESSURE GAUGE advice

[promisedland]

G-day everybody! I would love some info on drive pressure gauges.

Does it work to use a ''non'' liquid filled gauge??

I have seen copper tubing in a spiral then connected to poly tubing then in the cab. I assume this is to help stabilize the needle. I had a 'dry' gauge on my tractor [boost] & it was almost impossible to read the gauge, so liquid it is! I prefer a dry gauge..............

What psi is enough?? I dont want a 100psi if 60psi is good. a turbo upgrade is on my list as the he351cw [i hear] is known to cause high dp...

THANKS!!!!!!

 

[JBallou]

60 should be enough.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

If you plan on future mods, I'd go with the 100. If not, 60 should be fine. I had a dry gauge and it worked perfect. I don't know the actual reason for the copper tubing first, but I ran it first so the heat from the manifold wouldn't melt or dry out the poly tubing.

 

[Bob4x4]

G-day everybody! I would love some info on drive pressure gauges.

Does it work to use a ''non'' liquid filled gauge??

I have seen copper tubing in a spiral then connected to poly tubing then in the cab. I assume this is to help stabilize the needle. I had a 'dry' gauge on my tractor [boost] & it was almost impossible to read the gauge, so liquid it is! I prefer a dry gauge..............

What psi is enough?? I dont want a 100psi if 60psi is good. a turbo upgrade is on my list as the he351cw [i hear] is known to cause high dp...

THANKS!!!!!!

The copper tubing is because the exhaust temp will destroy normal plastic tubing.Any quality gauge will work fine-no smoothing needed

 

[AH64ID]

I would go with a 100 psi gauge. An exhaust brake will max a 60 psi gauge and so will just about any tune on a HE351, or very close to peak.

 

[promisedland]

Thanks folks!! i plan to get a 100psi gauge that matches my other gauges & use 1/4'' copper tubing to 1/8'' tubing that comes with the boost gauge.
What i'm not sure of yet is what to do about soot, yes the Cummins belches some black when i want a thrill
Any thoughts?

 

[AH64ID]

In theory there is no flow so soot shouldn't make it too far up the copper. The copper pipe will plug after a couple years, but it is cheap to replace.

 

[promisedland]

No filter;= easyer that way! i might add a quick type connect at the copper to poly fitting so i can blow it out if needed.

 

[seafish]

Or you might get one of these..VERY nice, easy to blow out, multiple ports and it works really well.

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/dppt.html

 

[cerberusiam]

You need a 100 psi gauge, a stock HE351 will end up with an excess of 60 psi of DP.

A wet gauge works the longest of anything I have found so far, aside from buying the expensive filter listed. Fill the coil of tubing with light engine oil then install with the outlet lower than the coils to hold the hold at the gauge end. It will work fine and not kill the sensor until the oil burns out of the tube.

 

[promisedland]

Thanks! are you saying to burn out soot, to add oil and reassemble?? and keep the sensor end lower then the manifold end.......
i was planning to use a 'sensorLESS' gauge......regular boost pressure gauge from glo-shift, as my other gauges

 

[cerberusiam]

How the glow shift would work is an unknown. I have had no luck with those gauges working very long or correctly.

The oil acts as an insulator to keep the hot causes and soot away from the sensor or gauge which will kill it in short order. You just have to periodically clean the soot out the coil and replace the oil as it burns out with heat. That worked the longest for me, the sensor-less gauge and filters just did not last long with the moisture and other contaminants in the exhaust.