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Drive Shaft Center Support Bearing?

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Warranty Ends - Problems To Look For?

A/C problem

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Nice pix... thanks. It definitely looks as if the u-joints on the aluminum shaft are larger. Are they greasable... do you think that since they are larger they will last longer? Do you know if there are aftermarket replacements for them?? TIA
 
Dave.



I sent those pics to MMeier, that's my driveshaft. It came from Mopar exactaly as you see it, fresh out of the box, ready to install. About a 20 min job pulling out the old shaft/center carrier bracket, and bolts on the punkin end and installing the new shaft.





CD
 
Yes it is a factory one-piece - the same driveshaft they have gone to in the 2008 and up trucks. Factory MOPAR part. The one in the pic you see fits a 4x4 MegaCab with a G-56 transmission, it's p/n is 52123162AA WC. You can get them from the fellow in the link I gave you OR from any Dodge dealership. They list for $599. 00, the link IS a much better price. It is my understanding that this shaft fits ALL MC and QC's with the G-56 standard transmission. So, I'm thinking those with the NV sticks may or may not use this one, the fellow on the link DOES know what fits what and he has the pn's for ALL models, thats why I suggested people contact him rather than just hitting the buy button.



CD
 
Anyone else notice ...

... while putting on a set of new rear shocks the other day, as I was under the truck, looking forward from behind the rear diff, my front piece of the shaft appears to be going at a different angle from the carrier bearing to the t case. The back piece appears to be pretty much right in line as to where you think it should be. Tried to get a pic, but can't tell from looking at it though. Anyone else notice this ?
 
I agree here's an old post:



I don't buy that shutter can't be fixed. I work on to many trucks that don't have any shutter, including my 93. I think I found the problem. I have been shimming up and down. Couldn't get it much better. Left it at 3/16 down. Started taking measurements. The problem isn't with up and down it is side to side. The motor sits about 1. 5 in to the right side of the truck. The pinion is about 3/4in to the right. And the center support is in the center of the truck. While the u joints shouldn't have problems up and down if you add side to side you can't keep input and out put parallel. I took a string from the rear yoke to the front yoke the moved the center support to the right tell it was straight, up and down will give sufficient u joint movement alone. I think my shutter is gone. Haven't towed yet. But I did put my new sjr in and well let you guys know what happens next.



________________________

93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 268k

04. 5 3500 4wd qc dully 373 6 speed 94k
 
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Brethren-

I stumbled across this forum and wanted to jump in!! Since I am about to turn 100k on the truck I am trying to be more proactive on what "gremlins" await me after my warranty expires. ;-) Note: I have never had issues with carrier bearing but I have noticed the drive-line vibration when accelerating with a load. Since a lot of my towing is in route to the deer lease I dont want to be stuck in the sticks so I will either buy a spare carrier or jump on the one-piece drive shaft which sounds like a better solution all the way around!! Thanks for letting me jump in!!!

Southbound
 
DGAMELIN would you tell us who posted that comment or where we can find it? I have the vibration and launch shudder and am so annoyed I dont care to drive my truck somedays. I really dont have the $$$$$ to spend on a one piece although I would love to have one. Maybe I could realign my carrier bearing to help it until I can afford a one piece.
 
The post was by me on 4-25-08 here on TDR under 5. 9 engine and transmission called drive line shutter. I dont know how to tell you how to get to it. I would like a one pice to. Just dont want to pay for it. It is almost imposable to get read of all of it in some trucks. I moved mine to the right as much as down, but they are all different. Just spend a lot of time measuring and string, I made adjustments for two weeks, I had all most all of it gone. This time it was a center ujoint froze up still waiting for a new one. You need to check the ujoints first. You have to pull the shaft to do it. Because a frozen one wont have any play in it and it wont squeak. But a frozen one in the center will shake you out of the cab. A set of air bags does wonders. I was also going to put a set of track bars on also, got the parts here but never got around to building them. When I went to order the bags I like (firestones) I seen they are now made in China, that just **** me off. Air bags can sometimes cause pinion rap that what the track bars were for. When I get a chance I will order some bags. I have them on my old truck and and RV I once had.
 
Carol !!

What is the actual diameter of the new shaft, if you know? Any idea what wall thickness it is? Will probably call Doghouse tomorrow either way .
 
Been emailing Rich back and forth. Seems like the 5600 equipped trucks are proving to be a problem in regards to length. G56 trans eqipped trucks are 2 " shorter then the 5600 rigs. He is going to look into some things tomorrow. Wonder if you could get one, then have it shortened ? :confused:
 
1/8'' thick. Yes it can be shorten. The one I had found will make what you want but they are a little more $. They are a drive shaft builder.
 
Yes, looked at your link as well. See what he comes up with tomorrow, also, going to see if my guy here local has changed his tune as to why he won't make a single shaft that long. :confused:
 
MMeier.



Just got on the net, have been off for a few days, family visiting for the holidays, etc.



I should have measured the diameter, it has to be a good 6"s or more. I can get a measurement tomorrow. Most all GOOD driveshaft shops can shorten it for you, even a good machine shop could.



I have a couple more pics of the install, I'll send them to you so you can see how it looks.



CD
 
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