Drive shaft greasing.

[rebar]

Hi everyone. I bought the grease needle but I'm not sure exactly where to insert it.

I found a few video's and hits, but there for newer trucks, but maybe the shaft on this video looks similar to a 97? Skip to 5:00

Or maybe someone could post a link to a 2nd gen drive shaft lube link? Iv read about it when I researched and bought the needle. But never figured out exactly where to grease.

Thanks!

 

[GAmes]

Aftermarket u-joints? The originals don't have grease fittings. When I replace mine I go with non-greasable ones, worry free for at least 300,000 miles.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Love non greats able U Joints. Son has my 98 12V now with original U joints at 400k on the clock.

86 C20 just sold had way over 400k.

 

[rebar]

Is that right?

I'm going to have to find the thread that got me concerned enough to buy a grease needle tomorrow.

 

[KATOOM]

If you have greaseable you'll unfortunately have to grease them periodically. Next time install non-greaseable and you wont have to bother with them for a long time.

 

[NIsaacs]

rebar, If you are talking about your front cardan joint ball, the 2nd gens did not have a zerk, needle type or otherwise.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Guess ya better buy a 4th Gen so you can use that needle!

 

[Cummins12V98]

Guess ya better buy a 4th Gen so you can use that needle!

 

[Tractorat]

I had to replace my u joints at about 130k and they had been gone for a while. I did go with the greasables. I take it to a local shop that I trust for oil changes and I WATCH them grease the ujoints.

 

[rebar]

rebar, If you are talking about your front cardan joint ball, the 2nd gens did not have a zerk, needle type or otherwise.

Thanks for the clarification.

I'm cautious because Ive seen what can happen if the drive shaft lets loose. So, if there's not much play or any vibration, I should be good to go..

 

[JMcCoy]

I've gone back and forth over the years as to what I prefer. My current train of thought is that modern Spicer u joint synthetic grease and seals are so good, I would go non-greaseable. That said, if you do a lot of deep water crossings, greaseable is probably a better option. Also keep in mind that non-greaseable is a little stronger. Spicer cold forged (greaseable or non-greaseable) are the only joints I would use on a street truck.

 

[Shelby Griggs]

Almost 300K on my 2001.5, driveline U-joints are still OEM (non greaseable) and still good. did have to replace the front axle wheel end joints and those are now greaseable type.