2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Driver door rot question part 2

[JCyrbok]

Well I know all about the driver door rot issues on our truck, I have even posted a thread awhile back about looking for info on how to fix it. I came to the conclusion then that I was gonna strip the paint to bare metal, prime, paint etc. Well I was not able to get to it last summer.



The other day while getting out of my truck I accidentially knocked a large chunk of paint/rust off the bottom edge of my door with my boot. I will not beable to get to fixing the door until spring due to work, family and lack of suitible place to work on my truck in the winter (it was -17 two days ago). what can I do as a temp fix to keep the moisture and salt from really eating my door till I can get to a more permanent fix?



I was thinking about scraping the bubbled paint and loose rust off the door and then gooping it up real good with some Naval Jelly. What say ye? (i'm not looking for a pretty fix at this point)



I'm hope that Ziebart will cover it and I'm gonna have them look at it in a couple of weeks when I am in for my yearly re-spray.



I may actually either have my doors linex'd next year or do it myself with the Duplicolor stuff. If the door is to far gone I may go with a junk yard door if I can find a good one. Trying to keep the door from getting too far gone though.



Any thoughts,

J-

 

[JCyrbok]

43 views and no suggestions? TTT



J-

 

[kenny61]

Well you could cut the rust out so it dont spread then prime and paint but that would probably ruin your zeibert warranty Im guessing sanding metal prepping priming and painting would too. wait and see wait zeibart says if they cover it great if not post a pic or two so we can see how bad it is

 

[Cummins724]

I am in the process of painting my truck & I bought a lh door from a place called the chop shop. He delivered it to a local drop off spot here in PA for $350. Spot free georgia door, absolutely perfect.

 

[JCyrbok]

I am in the process of painting my truck & I bought a lh door from a place called the chop shop. He delivered it to a local drop off spot here in PA for $350. Spot free georgia door, absolutely perfect.

copy thanks I will look into them if needed.



got a link to a website or contact info?



J-

 

[Joe Mc]

Ditto on the got a web site or link for them ?

 

[Cummins724]

Here you go. I highly recommend these guys, very nice products.



Welcome to The Chop Shop

 

[JRBurton]

Hi J

There is a product out there called Urethabond, once it is applied it becomes part of the metal. I have used it, its only available for industrial use, the company does not sell to the public as the product is very harmful to the lungs if inhaled. We would apply it at work and once dried if you wanted to remove it you would have to sand blast it off. Its made here in PA near Philadelphia I believe. Excellent product for rust, the reason the company doesn't sell to the public is if you inhale enough it will turn your lungs into leather. You might going through a body shop or a company that does industrial painting.



John

 

[JCyrbok]

Here you go. I highly recommend these guys, very nice products.



Welcome to The Chop Shop

thanks for the link and thanks to others for there suggestions



J-

 

[JCyrbok]

door rot questions UPDATE

Well I had my truck into Zeibart on Monday for the yearly inspection and re-apply. They will not cover the damage as it is not rusted on the inside of the door and there is no peforation. looks like their warranty is like the DC rust warranty and there has to be a hole rusted through to get it covered. The guy said that the inside of the door looked good ( i however did not see it but will check when the weather breaks) which looks like the Zeibart is atleast working. He said the rust came from the bottom roll seam in the door and got under the paint and just worked its way up.



On a plus point he advised that a repair will NOT void my Ziebart warranty as long as it gets re-sprayed with in 60days of the repair. He advised that he would do that for free whenever I got it fixed.



Now for the fix part. I am on a budget and will likely do this on my own in my garage. What is the best way to remove the paint and rust in the effected area down to bare metal.



I'm thinking either a flap wheel or wire brush wheel on a angle grinder? I would just remove rust/paint to good bare metal, clean, use a filler type spray primer, light hand sand, clean and then spray color (likely just Mopar color matched rattle can paint as the area is relatively small). Then spray some clear.



I'm thinking I could atleast get it to one coat of paint in a Sunday's worth of work in my garage, keeping in mind that this is not a show truck but my daily driver that I need to last as long as possible. I may either Line X or get one of the DIY kits and do the door bottoms (havent decided yet).



How do this sound? Am I over simplifying it or does this sound right?



Anything I should/could do immediately to stop/slow the rust before I can get to this (likely spring time)?



Thanks

J-

 

[mfburns]

Your plan sounds good. That is what I would do, have done. Sand it, wire wheel it, grind it if it is really rough, get down to metal and then paint it. Good primer most important to cover matal, then color to taste.

 

[JCyrbok]

Your plan sounds good. That is what I would do, have done. Sand it, wire wheel it, grind it if it is really rough, get down to metal and then paint it. Good primer most important to cover matal, then color to taste.

Thanks, just wanted to make sure there was not a huge flaw in my plan somewhere.



J-

 

[Cummins724]

Wire wheels won't get the rust out. You need to peel the bottom lip back & sandblast the rust out inside & out. Then apply a rust killer sealer, I prefer Picklex... This stuff is awesome! Rust Coatings & Converters: Autobody Store



After that is complete, you need to use door skin adhesive to seal the bottom lip from water, then run a bead of seam sealer inside & out. Seam sealer is available in a brush on quart can at any body store or your local Napa.



Here is a nice cheap sandblaster.





Unitec Speed Blaster: Autobody Store

 

[RHestand]

I have a Unitec Speed Blaster. Believe it or not, I found it laying on the side of the road, new and still in the box.

After sitting on a shelf for a long time, I finally decided to try it out. Now it's one of my favorite tools, and how did I do without it for so many years.

A word of caution though. Also buy a cheap hood. I learned that lesson real quick. $100 pair of glasses.

Ray

 

[abranz]

If you're on a budget forget line-x or any other spray on coverings. The rust is coming from inside the door cavity. Pull off the door panels, clean the metal, weld any new metal required on the door skin and then coat the inner door cavity with por 15 or rust bullet followed by a annual coating of fluid film. Buy some running boards and the repair will last years even when exposed to salt during winter. This is what I've done and it works. I tried the line-x/bedcovering which does nothing but cover up the problem which will continue if not properly dealt with.

Tony