Driver's Door Window Switch

[MattKeller]

The problem pertains to my 2003 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9 Cummins, 6 speed transmission.

I got in my truck today, turned the key on, and the driver's side front window rolled down automatically without me even touching any of the switches (I suspected a ghost or magic at first). Now the window won't go up! All of the other window switches work fine it's just the one switch that won't work. I tried messing with the lockout switch and toggling all of the other switches. I pulled the driver's door switch board out and everything seemed to be connected and looked intact. It seems like it should be an easy fix, but I just need to know what I need to check and replace. ANY help is greatly appreciated.

 

[RDeFayette]

The problem pertains to my 2003 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9 Cummins, 6 speed transmission.

I got in my truck today, turned the key on, and the driver's side front window rolled down automatically without me even touching any of the switches (I suspected a ghost or magic at first). Now the window won't go up! All of the other window switches work fine it's just the one switch that won't work. I tried messing with the lockout switch and toggling all of the other switches. I pulled the driver's door switch board out and everything seemed to be connected and looked intact. It seems like it should be an easy fix, but I just need to know what I need to check and replace. ANY help is greatly appreciated.

Either take the switch apart and re-solder the connections (common problem) or just get a new switch (easier).

 

[MattKeller]

Either take the switch apart and re-solder the connections (common problem) or just get a new switch (easier).

I was pretty certain it was the switch. Do you know if you can buy the driver's door switches individually? Or do you have to buy the whole panel of switches? If I have to buy the whole switch board the price is a little over $100 bucks. Which isn't that bad but I would rather buy only one of them individually if that's all that needs replaced.

 

[seafish]

I would first try taking the panel out and cleaning the switches and plugs with contact cleaner and compressed air…here is a link to thread with pics on repairing the switches panel.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-non-powertrain/140614-window-problem-answer.html

 

[RDeFayette]

I was pretty certain it was the switch. Do you know if you can buy the driver's door switches individually? Or do you have to buy the whole panel of switches? If I have to buy the whole switch board the price is a little over $100 bucks. Which isn't that bad but I would rather buy only one of them individually if that's all that needs replaced.

No you can't replace the switches individually. It's only one circuit board underneath and NO you do NOT have to buy the bezel.
67.39 free shipping/new
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Powe...03|Model:Ram+2500&hash=item51aa20bccf&vxp=mtr
You don't have to take the door panel off. The switch and bezel will pop right out with a small screwdriver. just pry up gently. Should take but about 5 seconds to pop it out and unplug the wires. You can try to fix/clean/blow out but eventually you'll need a new one. Been there/fixed that (on 3 different trucks)

 

[JeepinDoug]

That switch panel is directly in the direction for rain coming through the window.
My right rear window stopped working.
I started flipping the switch back and forth really quick and it started working again.
The moisture gets in there and corrodes the contacts.
Cycling the switch cleans the oxidation off.

 

[Prairie Dog]

This has been talked about many times here and I have fixed them.
Moisture doesn't get into the switches. Their design is such that you could poor water over them for hours and they will stay dry inside because the button forms a roof over the inside of the switch as well as the housing itself extends up under the button/cap.
The real problem is cold solder joints on the back side of the switches - a manufacturing defect that causes latent failures. Because of this the joit will slowly corrode and loose contact. Squirting something in them or rocking the switch repeatedly will temporarily cause the joint to work just well enough to work for a while but the permanent fix is to clean and re-flow the solder joints.
If someone is near me and needs help fixing it, I'd be happy to help. (I have a background in this stuff and was a certified weapons-spec solderer)

Scott

 

[Nelco]

I just replaced mine. For many years- no lights in the switches......then no control for passengers to use their windows.......lastly no control over the power outside mirrors. Cost for the new switch was about $100.00 delivered. Everything back to what it should be. 1st switch was Mexico, new switch China. Who knows what will last.
N

 

[Hunters]

I got our switches from LMCtruck.com. They have several to choose from, depending on your application, and they are reasonable price compared to ordering them from a Dodge dealer. When the pass. window won't go down on our trucks the rear window won't work either, but if the pass. window works then the back windows work. I think you have to buy the complete switch for the drivers side panel

 

[Hunters]

Wish you lived in NW PA

 

[Hunters]

The switch from ebay was alot cheaper than the one from LMC. The exact same switch was $129.95 plus shipping and handling from LMC.

 

[Turbopower]

Yah try eBay.

 

[bighammer]

I just replaced mine. (almost exact same story) I hoped it was just re-soldering of the connections, but found that mine was broken plastic at the switch pivot. I bought a new one from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Dakota-Master...Master+Power+Window+Switch+2002-2009+(4+Door)

 

[mfurrh55]

ebay has some for 46.48, Monte

 

[Hunters]

Got new switch for drivers door and all seems well except now theback door on drivers side will not lock or unlock with the switch. It did it with old and new switch. Now what?