2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission driverside front wheel lockup

[jpogue]

My friend has a 99 2wd and is having problems with driverside front wheel locking up. Especially going downhill on gravel roads. He also has a problem with that rotor warping and has replaced twice in about 18 months. Dodge supposedly fixed the first time,he said they replaced proportioning valve also and it still happens. He is a farrier and hauls a lot of weight,I told him to be sure and keep the rears adjusted. He's getting discouraged because he recently had to replace trans. (auto) and the dreaded lift pump. He is hating the fact that he got rid of his chevy 2500 gasser for the dodge. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[dseabaugh]

have him put the caliper on without any pads and make sure it slides bad and forth freely. I have seen several with this problem and rusty caliper bracket or bolts would keep it from sliding. It has to slide back to release. new hardware kit and file the bracket usually fixes it. $5. 00 fix usually. found same problem with pull on mine. the caliper mounting bracket was actually in a taper causing a bind when pads were worn down and after I ground it square it didn't pull any more.

 

[Joe Mc]

My friend has a 99 2wd and is having problems with driverside front wheel locking up. He is hating the fact that he got rid of his chevy 2500 gasser for the dodge. Any help would be appreciated.

Tell him two things

1- TDR Membership is "priceless" and

2- Why did he get rid of his "chebby" if he hates the Dodge so much? Refer back to item 1 above as many times as it takes for him to forget about his chebby. . . . :-laf

 

[GAmes]

I had the same problem with my 1967 brand C pick-up. I changed a lot of parts, then finally changed the flex hoses to the calipers. Problem solved. They fail internally and act as a one way check valve, not allowing the fluid pressure to release when you release the brake pedal.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I had the same problem with my 1967 brand C pick-up. I changed a lot of parts, then finally changed the flex hoses to the calipers. Problem solved. They fail internally and act as a one way check valve, not allowing the fluid pressure to release when you release the brake pedal.

And don't be surprised if it is the hose on the passenger side causing that side to get hot and have less braking than the drivers side. bg

 

[Skydiver]

I had the same problem with my 1967 brand C pick-up. I changed a lot of parts, then finally changed the flex hoses to the calipers. Problem solved. They fail internally and act as a one way check valve, not allowing the fluid pressure to release when you release the brake pedal.

I'm betting GAmes is correct.



Always change brake fluid when replacing pads. I do my own.



When compressing calipers I open the bleeder first to remove old fluid. I use a turkey baster to remove old fluid in the master.



His driver side lockup could mean the right side is not working.

 

[BEnglish]

I have had a similar problem and it turned out that the dust boot on the piston in the caliper had gotten some water in it and left a ring of rust around the circumference where the piston was coming out of the caliper. When I replaced my pads and pushed the piston back in the ring of rust/crud caused it to bind/catch and not release the pads and overheated the rotor and warped it. I was able to fix the caliper by disassembling it and removing the rust with a brush. The rotor had to be replaced of course.

 

[DCreed]

is it a 3/4 or one ton? I have a whole 1 ton pass side assembly he can have FREE!!

 

[jpogue]

Thanks guys for all the responses. Joe he would subscribe to TDR but he lives in the sticks and has dial up connection and no patience. And Dcreed it's a 3/4 ton thanks for the offer though. I am going out to his place for a bonfire tonight will print out the responses for him. I think Games and BG are on the right track though as fast as his rotors warp.

Thanks again guys