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Driveshaft help

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Lower steering shaft replacement?

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Quick run down of my truck.

Early 04 Ram 3500 48RE QC SWB 4WD.

Rear ujoint decided to go to pot today and ended up having to limp her home with some assistance from very large cable ties believe it or not. Got home and inspected the shaft and the ujoint yoke on the driveshaft itself is shot. They are beat out pretty bad. Never guessed finding a driveshaft would be so hard. I am going to check with my machine shop tomorrow too see if they can repair it. I see mentions of a replacement 52123220AB but that seems to have been superseded by part number 52123161AC? My truck had a factory steel one piece driveshaft with the 1415 ujoint (Precision 330 were what fit) with the vibration dampener. The 52123161AC doesnt have the dampener so I am also unsure about that. Can someone please confirm if the 52123161AC is the correct replacment for the 4x4? Or am I totally off. I know this is probably a newb question but while I have had this truck for 12 years I havent ever had to dig deep into finding parts for it. Thank you for all of your help ahead .
 
Any dealership should be able to give you the correct superceded part.Or any driveshaft shop can replace the bad yoke and rebalance
 
i think those parts you reference are for the one piece aluminum shaft for long bed trucks.

look for a local drive line shop.
 
Thank you for the response guys. I called my local machine shop this morning and he is confident he has the part to repair the driveshaft in stock. Said it wouldn't cost but about 90 to 100 tops. So that is a lot better than replacing the entire driveshaft. I was amazed and the lack of readily available support for such a common item though.
20170330_190100.jpg

Just to prove that the cable ties can get you home in a pinch....all be it very very slowly.

20170330_190100.jpg
 
Parts availibility is generally demand based. If there is no demand the manufacturer stops building or sourcing them. Drive shafts can easily be repaired as you found out.
 
Nice road side fix!!
And that sure looks like metal. Odd, never heard of a metal 1 piece on these trucks. Could it be aftermarket?

Scott
 
‘04 2500 QC SB 2wd

Mine appears to have a 1-piece aluminum DS.

Any tips on removing the slip yoke from the transmission? Or just disconnect at the axle and slide it out? Figure I’ll loose some ATF. Hoping to find an ID tag or be able to confirm 1410 VS 1415 joint size. Still trying to confirm AAM driveshaft. No issues yet, but reaching 200K miles.
 
It just slides out and you might loose a dribble of fluid if it is level. If it has smaller end son the shaft and a larger diameter center section it is an OE shaft. If it is OE it will be the 1415 joints. That driveshaft is just barley adequate for a stock engine and the 1415 joints are not that big. Custom DS's usually have a full 5-6" center section and 1480 joints in them for strength.
 
Make sure you shop of choice can make the driveshaft straight and balance it. Driveshaft shops are usually the choice for this otherwise it's like an unbalanced tire, but, at higher RPM.
 
FWIW. I replaced my 2 piece drive shaft (vibrating at high speed) on my identical truck with a one piece aluminum drive shaft. It was a simple install in my driveway, and I swear the truck acceleration increased a bit. Never had another vibration. Good Luck.
 
FWIW. I replaced my 2 piece drive shaft (vibrating at high speed) on my identical truck with a one piece aluminum drive shaft. It was a simple install in my driveway, and I swear the truck acceleration increased a bit. Never had another vibration. Good Luck.
I'm getting vibration on my 2001 long bed, and a shop suggested the one piece aluminum. Opinion?
 
I'm getting vibration on my 2001 long bed, and a shop suggested the one piece aluminum. Opinion?

Not sure about your 2001, but my early 2004 had a 2 piece with a center carrier. I easily lost 100lbs of dead weight when I removed my old shaft, carrier mount etc, for the new 1 alum piece. Plus you have fewer moving parts to go bad down the road. And best, no vibrations. I could drive that truck up to 1 0 0 m p h and it rode smooth as silk. Pricey but worth it. And no labor charges, it's a DIY job.
 
Not sure about your 2001, but my early 2004 had a 2 piece with a center carrier. I easily lost 100lbs of dead weight when I removed my old shaft, carrier mount etc, for the new 1 alum piece. Plus you have fewer moving parts to go bad down the road. And best, no vibrations. I could drive that truck up to 1 0 0 m p h and it rode smooth as silk. Pricey but worth it. And no labor charges, it's a DIY job.
ok but when you say pricey, what $$$ are you saying? cheaper than the rebuild - new universals, plus the center yoke which on mine looks really rusted and tired.
 
ok but when you say pricey, what $$$ are you saying? cheaper than the rebuild - new universals, plus the center yoke which on mine looks really rusted and tired.

Im guessing around $700 inc shipping. Your price may vary. Google "Dodge aluminum drive shaft". You will get many hits including you tube install videos.
 
I just installed my new 1 piece from driveshaft specialties in texas. 855$ to my door in oregon. They were a week faster than a local driveshaft shop here in town. I am very excited about not having a center carrier bearing anymore.
 
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