Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Driveshaft Support Bearing Changeout

[Rebel_Horseman]

Well this afternoon I noticed a thumping when accelerating and after looking under the truck I noticed the bearing had apparently slid out of the bracket or housing that holds it up. It looks like the boot got messed up and all sorts of problems. I can't for the life of me figure out how the bearing worked its way forward of the bracket instead of to the rear and downward. Has anyone had to change theirs out before and if so what is involved. The repair manual says I'm going to have to take it to a machine shop and get them to use a press to get the old one off and the new one on, but if that's the case I could just take a cut-off wheel or sawz-all to it and get the same result right? What about the bushing and carrier cost(s)? I don't know if it's a whole assembly or if the bearing and the carrier are two different parts. Finally, there is a truck identical to mine at a nearby salvage yard and I may just try to buy the entire drive shaft and replace it fro a core charge or exchange. Seems like every time I turn around it's another repair. Can't wait till I start working again cause a new 3rd Gen is in my future.



Reb [><]

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Went thru that a year ago . While you are at it ...



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=52183&highlight=joint

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

Tim, how much did the bearing cost you? I think I know of a source but I think it's gonna have to be pressed on and the old one pressed off. Also, (this is gonna sound retarded) but how do I check the slip yoke? I want to make sure it hasn't gone out as well.



Brian

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

I wanna say the bearing was 110. 00 from D/c (yuk) and I would look at the splines on the yoke to make sure no binding is taking place. When theese things fail they mean buisness. The amount of torque that is applied thru theese shafts is obviously tremendous. So any play and you are sending the naturaly sideways twisting force thru the shaft until it breaks free of the support. I would also do u joints at the same time. Have a shop do it as the unit needs to be balanced as a UNIT. For all you know you may have tossed a weight and harmonics took care of the rest.

 

[SOOT]

I went down to the local drive train shop, Six States and they gave me this Spicer part #210391-1X about $40. The housing is different than the stocker but its fairly easy to make it fit. You just have to weld a piece of flat steel to the mount to make it a little longer and then drill 2 new holes to bolt it up. To remove the old bearing just use a long punch and a big hammer to drive it off then use a piece of pipe to drive the new one on.



Or another way is to go to Car quest and get their bearing about $35 and remove the rubber and bearing from the stock housing and the new housing and put the new rubber and bearing in the stock housing.

 

[monkfarm]

?SPICER CARRIER BETTER THAN DC?

Can anyone tell me if they think this spicer carrier bearing (spicer part # 210391-1X) is better than the DC carrier bearing??

?? I wonder if there is better U-Joints than the DC parts?.

I have to replace the carrier, and I might as well do the U-joints at the same time. I want the best stuff available. (if it isn't too out-rageous in price. )

 

[Tcolesanti]

I just had my whole rear driveline redone a couple of weeks ago. My driveline tubes were rusted pretty bad and my carrier bearing was bad. I had a shop weld in new tubes, press in a new carrier, all new u-joints, and balance the entire assembly all for $280. All the u-joints were Spicer and the carrier was a spicer oem replacement.