Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Drivetrain Shuttering?

[CurtisM]

When my truck goes into overdrive and the converter locks up at first the whole truck kind of shutters and vibrates but only if I'm about 1/4 throtle. I'f I am in the pedal more than that it doesn't do it. I have a 3:54 truck with 35" tires 330 injectors a #10 plate and the timing advanced to match. My truck has about 125,000 on the trans and I know I need to get a better one with a converter but I'm hoping that the shutter doesn't mean its allready on its way out. Also it has the locking, unlocking converter problem that needs to be delt with.

 

[MRector]

mine was doing the same thing before i replaced it with Dave Goerends transmission. funny thing is that is continued to shutter after new transmission was in-turned out replacing rear u joints fixed the shutter.



but i do think your present transmission is on its way out

 

[Roger Dodger]

Mine does the same thing. Are their any recommended u-joints? I know my father swore that on his 92 dakots gas that the factory u-jounts lasted longer than parts store brands.

 

[MRector]

i just used the heaviest ones that advance offered--they are a whole lot beefier than the stockers.

 

[Matthug]

It's probably the injectors. Marine injectors on the smaller pumps like your 160 usually make the engine shutter between 1100-1300 RPM with light throttle. It's due to the small stock delivery valves. Install 181, 191, or even bigger if you want delivery valves and it should go away.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=8014351441&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT



I haven't had a chance to install bigger delivery valves yet on my 175 pump and my truck shutters with my 300 injectors just like you are describing. It's probably worse for a manual transmission because the auto transmission won't allow the engine to lug so much until it's in lockup in overdrive.

 

[Matthug]

If it was the U joints it would only get worse with more throttle.

 

[Roger Dodger]

I have a totally stock truck... Does this mean i need new delivery nozzles also (is the delivery nozzle another name for the injector?)?

 

[Matthug]

No, delivery VALVES not injector nozzles. The delivery valves are on the injection pump right underneath where the injection lines hook up.

 

[CurtisM]

It wasn't the U-joints I replaced front and rear, although with 190,000 on the clock it was probobly time for a set anyways I read somewear else that it's probobly the dillevery valves but when I Insalled everything the local diesel shop here said that without a bigger turbo they wouldent recomend the delivery valves? what do you all think.

 

[Matthug]

It depends on what size valves you get, most people get the 191's. I doubt you will have trouble with EGT's a number 10 plate is rather mild on your pump.

A cheap trick if your EGT's are a little hot is to get the 16cm non-wastegated turbine housing and bolt it on for a 100* drop in EGT's and a little more upper RPM breathing power. It's only $150.

If you can find stock 96-98 215 pump delivery valves they are 181's and would be a decent upgrade for you and should stop the shuttering. I've been looking for a set myself because 191's are about $240, if I could pick up a set of used 181's for $100-120 I would be happy.

 

[Roger Dodger]

I found the problem was the transmission. The first thing i noticed is that the trans fluid was clean on the dipstick with no odor, but pull a sample and it was dirty in a bottle. The second indicator that the trans needed adjustment was that it shifts way too early. I have had experience with adjusting a 46rh and 3 904's so i knew exactly where to go once i figured out the differences with the 47RE.



I checked the govenor linkage at the transmission with my wife stepping on the gas pedal, and found that the govenor linkage was not moving full travel. I adjusted the govenor cable at the throttle on the engine to its full extent. again, i checked under the vehicle for full govenor travel. It was better, but not fully. A road test revealed it indeed made an improvement, but still shifted too early.



I had to make the cable shorter. I did a fix that can be reversed if needed. I put some solder in the plastic piece behind the swage on cable at the throttle on the engine. This made the cable shorter. I readjusted the cable sleeve, and checked the govenor for full travel. It did move fully indeed. A test drive revealed the trans shifting very close to where i want it.



I believe that the trans was shuttering in overdrive because the TC clutch was slipping. This explains the dirty fluid. Trans pressure is dependant on 2 things, one of them being govenor linkage position. If It doesn't know the throttle is open, it won't increase line pressure, and thus, it wont increase holding power for the clutches.