Driving and all of a sudden stalls out!

[stoneagemaxx]

well after leaving for my trip i get about 7 miles down the express way and the guages were showing fine, and all of a sudden the motor started to i guess studder i looked at all the guages and still everything in check egt's were about 950-1025 boost around 11-12 psi, oil presure is the stock guage but it was over half and where it normally is at, the studdering sound seemed to come from the exhuast pipe (6" single stack in the bed) so i looked out the rear window and noticed a little smoke i couldent tell the color because of it being 11pm here, but anyways, the motor then stalled and i coasted off to the side, before trying to restart i checked the oil, which seems to be fine it is a little below the full line but nothing bad, i have been running additives because i know the new fuel isent all it should be for our older motors i should say though for about 4 tanks of fuel and this is recently, i did not run any additives, and also noticed a little fuel leak at the IP, it seems like it is comming from one of the lines going to the injectors but i havent seen exactly where its leaking yet, it drips down the IP pump center bracket onto the PS pump housing on the engine block side,



ok and last but not least what do you guy's think the possibility of a bad fuel filter is?

 

[DVolk]

Driving and all the sudden stalls out

My guess a clogged fuel filter , i had a old freightliner do that

one nite , but it turned out to be a bad pt pump



does it fire with a littel wd or starting fluid help ??????

 

[MMiller]

Check the wires on the shut off solenoid. They could be loose or corroded. Wiggle them a little then try and start it.



Michael

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

I would agree with Michael - start with the shut-off solenoid, that was the problem with mine. I eventually replaced the ends with new connectors. I still check these connections regularly. Next step would be the fuel filter - if it's been over 12,000 miles on the fuel filter I would change it anyway.



Bob

 

[stoneagemaxx]

fuel filter was changed probably about 1500 miles ago, is there any way to test the shut off solenoid?, i have wiggled the wires around the wire end is not in the greatest shape but dosent the shutoff just shut the motor off, so if it was unplugged the motor should run correct?,

I would agree with Michael - start with the shut-off solenoid, that was the problem with mine. I eventually replaced the ends with new connectors. I still check these connections regularly. Next step would be the fuel filter - if it's been over 12,000 miles on the fuel filter I would change it anyway.



Bob

 

[DBF]

Not exactly the way it works.



When you turn the key to ON, the solenoid gets 12volts & pulls up out of the way so fuel can flow to the pump.



When you turn the key OFF (or if the contacts fall off), the solenoid drops back down, stopping fuel flow & shutting down the engine.



Diesels have to stop by cutting off the fuel because there's nothing electrical to cut that would stop the engine - it runs just fine without any electrical power.



Regards, DBF

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

The solenoid can also fail thus leaving the shut-off plunger in the off position. You can test the solenoid by applying voltage to it and see if you can hear it engage and disengage. If you can't hear anything it is probably bad. You can remove it and take out the plunger and spring and reinstall it. This will get you back on the road until you can get a new one. If you do this you will have to shut off the pump manually.



Do a search on the solenoid removal - there are several different ideas. I cut off part of the rear pump support so I could repeat as necessary.



Bob

 

[stoneagemaxx]

ok, so i changed the filter, i have power to the solenoid but cannot guarantee it is working, i was trying to get it to start, and we were getting white smoke from the exhaust, the motor stopped turning over and we thought it was the batt. dead so we towed it home and started to charge it, the motor will not turn over now, the starter tries but gets stopped, it seems the motor has locked up, any ideas what might have happened now?, going to pull injectors right now to relive any compression to make sure i'm not hydro-locked, update in a few

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

If you don't find any signs of hydro-lock try to turn the engine over using the alternator pulley. A 1/2 inch breaker bar with the right size socket will work. The engine should move fairly easily. I would think that with the engine able to turn over when you first started trouble shooting it doesn't sound like a KDP or front case bolt but you never know. You can also pull the valve covers and watch the push rods and valves to see what is going on. Good luck and keep us posted.



Bob

 

[stoneagemaxx]

well it has been 4 hours or more and the injectors are still not out, i saw the homemade jigs made and guess i will be making one, i have an injector puller for bigger detroit diesel motors that i've been trying to use which is like a lil' slam handle that has two prongs that slip under the hex (24mm) of the injector

 

[dpuckett]

You gotta take the 24mm hex nuts all the way off and pull just the injector stick. Good dose of PBlaster helps as well.



ALso, I recently had a slow turning engine, and it turned out to be the alternator locked up, so check that as well. Take the belt off and see if it will crank. For idling in the shop/driveway, you wont need the water pump anyway.



Before pulling injectors, I'd check to make sure you are getting fuel to them.



Daniel

 

[stoneagemaxx]

dpuckett, found that out real quick thanks for the info, glad i dident try pulling them before i got the nuts off, well the injectors are out, they were getting fuel also, but the motor is still locked up, i went to the local cummins shop and talked with a tech for a while, he's leaning towards the KDP or something else up in the front cover, what do you guy's think?, also other than the alt. where would be a good place to try and turn over the motor, i'm going to try and get on the crank w/ a breaker bar and try and turn it in reverse but i don't know what kind of luck i will have.

 

[bgilbert]

Do what Bob suggested. Use a 15mm socket and breaker bar on a crank bolt to try to rotate the engine. And remove the valve covers to watch the pushrods and rockers work. What about a locked up ac compressor? I'd remove the serp belt, valve covers, and might even remove the transmission inspection cover to inspect for flexplate breakage. . although not sure if that would prevent the engine from turning over. Starter fried? I doubt your engine is locked up. Probly (hopefully) something minor.



Edit, also what temps are you seeing right now in your part of the world?

 

[stoneagemaxx]

i'm seeing about 25 degree's right now, the belt's gonna come off in a few, and i'll try the crank to get it to turn over, the starter seems like it is trying to turn it over so i dont think it is fried but i wish it was, well back to work i'll post soon, again thanks for all the help

 

[stoneagemaxx]

well, belts off trying to turn it over w/ the crank bolts first i went counter clockwise because the starter wouldent push it forward and i thought to prevent any damage id go back, so it turned about 3/4 to mabey 1 inch then the bolt started to loosen so i got on another bolt it also broke loose, so i tried going forward, got about an inch again so i can get about 1 inch of movement and thats it, any ideas? will pulling the valve covers do anything being able to only move it that much?

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

Pulling the valve covers will let you see if you've got any bent push rods or other potential damage but I would suggest pulling that front cover off. You already have half of the crank bolts loose. If I remember correctly all you have to do from there is - take off the fan and the fan offset and finish removing the crank. Then remove the bolts holding the front cover off. I suspect that is where your problem is. There are two potential problems there 1 is the KDP and the other is the 5 10MM bolts that hold the back part of that front cover in place. Even if it turns out that everything is ok there - and I don't think that's the case - those parts will need to be taken care of.



Bob

 

[stoneagemaxx]

thats exactly what i was thinking, i'm working out in the 5 degree weather now so i have to stop, i'm trying to get it into a barn or something, thanks again a for all the help, what kind of price am i looking at for parts if a pin has fallen out or a bolt, the motor wasent running so i cant see that much damage, but i still need to find out why my motor quit running, i'm thinking possibly an air leak at the injector lines because it was leaking some fuel from there.

 

[bgilbert]

Shutdown/run solenoid is probly failed- reason why it quit running in the first place. Why it's locked up now?? If you had a KDP failure, you're looking at a high dollar repair job. Front gear housing, cover, cam/VE/crank/oil pump gear... expensive.



What is holding you back on rotating the engine clockwise with the crank bolt? Pull the dern valve covers and check for something obvious! Then if nothing obvious, turn that engine over, muscles!

 

[stoneagemaxx]

Sorry about not responding sooner, so the valve covers were removed, nothing up there, then i tore into the front cover, as soon as i popped the cover found the problem, the drive gear on the inj. pump had split in two, looks as if the lock washer totally flattened and the nut backed off then the gear walked forward into the cover, so long story short, all the other gears look fine, the cover was fixable w/ a little welding and i'm in the process of getting a drive gear, crank seal, and looking for a 3200 rpm gov spring to replace mine while the pump is out (took it out to clean it up and had a fuel leak from the injector line adapters on the block side

 

[sdstriper]

Wow, glad you determined the problem and it wasn't any worse than it is.