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"Drop Stock Talk" What's your delete, tuning package?

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2014-2016 Laramie 18" wheel finish

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OK, so....... I have a brand new 2017 Laramie Longhorn 2500. Like so many others, i vowed to keep this one stock and just drive it...... Well, like so many others, after 2500 miles i'm bored with stock and really hate how the 68RFE shifts and want to hear that Cummins growl .....

So my question is to you is, what delete/tuning packages are you running or recommend? I don't want to get too crazy and want to keep it sane, streetable, user friendly and most of all RELIABLE. Thinking, engine tuner,
transmission tuning, 5" straight exhaust, and an EGR delete. I'm not trying to win races and don't want to be blowing a ton of black smoke (A little smoke is fine) and want to make sure the cruise control will still be functional. Looking for plug and play stuff..... I know if you really want to be serious you need custom tuning, but really would like to know who makes the best setup for the newer Cummins out of the box.

Let's hear what you got and show us some pictures!

Here's mine.... Already added a 4" coil spring, tubular radius arm Bilstein Superlift with dual Bilstein steering stabilizer and 20x10 Sota REPR's wrapped with 35x13.50 Toyo Open Country R/T's

THANKS!!!
JJ
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My son went from a deleted '12 dually to a '16 and couldn't stand the throttle response so he installed this:https://www.genosgarage.com/product...ity-booster-bd-1057732/Electrical-accessories

He thinks he will be happy for a while:)

Nick

I've looked at those too and have seen mostly good reviews on it as well, what few I could find anyway. I had a 2015 3500 SRW Cummins with the G56. As we all know, that engine is de-tuned for the transmission. I bought it thinking it would be good for what I wanted to do with it upon retirement from the military but upon further research, while it is a beast, it just doesn't have the capability the automatics do.

*Side info* Based on the research I've done, the manual just isn't built to handle the power the autos can and there isn't enough demand for them to build them stronger. So I traded it in for my current truck, 2016 Ram 3500 DRW with the AISIN trans. It will haul a little over a 1000LBS more in payload than my old truck but will tow DOUBLE what the old truck could, all according to specs provided by an SAE J2807 Compliant chart.

Anyway, my new truck with the "High Output" diesel at 385hp and 900tq, well obviously the difference in engine performance was night and day. But in reference to throttle response, the manual had none at all compared to my new one. This engine combined with the AISIN has some good throttle response but you can still tell there is some lag. I may have to purchase this and give it a try.

Hope I'm not jacking your thread but are you wanting to delete just for improved throttle response or are you wanting to bump your numbers up significantly too? I ask because I've been going back and forth about deleting everything but only for longevity and reliability of the engine. If I could get rid of JUST the EGR and keep everything else, I'd be fine but everything I've read and everyone I've talked to says if you delete the EGR, everything else has to go too. I'd actually prefer it to have the same power it came from the factory with, I just don't like all that soot going back into the engine.
 
I've looked at those too and have seen mostly good reviews on it as well, what few I could find anyway. I had a 2015 3500 SRW Cummins with the G56. As we all know, that engine is de-tuned for the transmission. I bought it thinking it would be good for what I wanted to do with it upon retirement from the military but upon further research, while it is a beast, it just doesn't have the capability the automatics do.

*Side info* Based on the research I've done, the manual just isn't built to handle the power the autos can and there isn't enough demand for them to build them stronger. So I traded it in for my current truck, 2016 Ram 3500 DRW with the AISIN trans. It will haul a little over a 1000LBS more in payload than my old truck but will tow DOUBLE what the old truck could, all according to specs provided by an SAE J2807 Compliant chart.

Anyway, my new truck with the "High Output" diesel at 385hp and 900tq, well obviously the difference in engine performance was night and day. But in reference to throttle response, the manual had none at all compared to my new one. This engine combined with the AISIN has some good throttle response but you can still tell there is some lag. I may have to purchase this and give it a try.

Hope I'm not jacking your thread but are you wanting to delete just for improved throttle response or are you wanting to bump your numbers up significantly too? I ask because I've been going back and forth about deleting everything but only for longevity and reliability of the engine. If I could get rid of JUST the EGR and keep everything else, I'd be fine but everything I've read and everyone I've talked to says if you delete the EGR, everything else has to go too. I'd actually prefer it to have the same power it came from the factory with, I just don't like all that soot going back into the engine.

I feel the throttle response factory is really good. Before this truck i had an F350 and F250 both 2008 Harley Editions with the 6.4, deleted with the Spartan tuners and this Cummins has 3 times the response the Fords had tuned. As for the reason why i'm wanting to delete is i hate how the transmission shifts, i want the Cummins straight pipe sound, fuel economy and like you, i don't like the soot going back through it. More power is a bonus but i'm not trying to win any races. It really has enough power stock. My biggest reason is the transmission. It has crazy amounts of shift flare between 4-5, 5-6 and it drives me nuts. I've had it in the dealer 2 times for this and they've reflashed the shift module both times resulting in absolutely the same thing...... From what i'm reading on these forums, the shift flare is "normal" for these 68RFE's because the torque converter is unlocking/locking between shifts. My Fords didn't do this and neither should my Ram.
 
My apologies, I did see you mentioned the trans shifting issue in your thread starter, I just forgot when I started rambling. My AISIN shifts pretty solid but I notice it does have that shift flare between between some of the gears as well. I'm curious why Ram would program that into the transmission?

After reading GSBROCKMAN's post about hitting 200K with no issues other than having to replace the batteries, I'm even more hesitant to do the delete. He's doing what I want to do when I retire and and his truck is bone stock, but the thought of all that soot going back into the engine bothers me. I'm a preventative maintenance freak so I will do all the scheduled maintenance as he did and I feel, for the sake of the engine, I should delete everything. I like the idea of better fuel economy, longer engine life, that good ol cummins growl also, and having to replace one of the DPF filters costs a fortune, it's almost a no brainer. But seeing that with proper maintenance, the engine will last if left alone, it just makes me think harder about doing anything or just leaving it alone...
 
If you are straight piping (deleting egr, scr, dpf, etc), they will know you have tuned it. You will lose a huge portion of your 3 year/36,000 mile warranty and virtually all of your powertrain warranty. If you have a problem in the next few years, you can try to argue that you didn't bump up the power & torque too much, but it won't matter what you say. They will tell you you've voided your warranty. Even if you bought an extended warranty, it will be mostly void.
 
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Drive with the TH and EB on ALL THE TIME. I had ZERO issues with my 68RFE over 65K towing HEAVY for over 1/2 the miles. I was told to run the ***** out of it by the Service Mgr at Dave Smith. It's a leaning trans so maybe that's why I had no issues.

The Aisin acts more like a built trans.
 
If you are straight piping (deleting egr, scr, dpf, etc), they will know you have tuned it. You will lose a huge portion of your 3 year/36,000 mile warranty and virtually all of your powertrain warranty. If you have a problem in the next few years, you can try to argue that you didn't bump up the power & torque too much, but it won't matter what you say. They will tell you you've voided your warranty. Even if you bought an extended warranty, it will be mostly void.

I've read on forum B that some dealers are turning a blind eye to delete mods. I think they're full of donkey doo doo.

Drive with the TH and EB on ALL THE TIME. I had ZERO issues with my 68RFE over 65K towing HEAVY for over 1/2 the miles. I was told to run the ***** out of it by the Service Mgr at Dave Smith. It's a leaning trans so maybe that's why I had no issues.

The Aisin acts more like a built trans.

Last week, I challenged myself to run my truck for a full week without using the EB/TH mode. That lasted only two days. Coming from using a stick since 94 to my first auto in 2016 has been a learning curve, and I learned that I really love the EB/TH modes.
 
Not sure if they support the 2017 yet, but I came across some interesting youtube videos from a couple of companies called calibrated power solutions and double r diesel. If I recall, both speak about their trans tuning, may be worth looking into. I was really impressed with the power calibrated was making, but I think my days of tuners/programmers are over.
 
This was my advice to another poster in another thread.

If you buy a 2013.5 with DEF and up truck I would leave this truck stock. Now if you have a 2007.5 to 2012 truck; you might think about modifying the truck depending on where you live. Either use a Smarty or EFI Live for a tuner with a DPF delete.

We now have four Dodge/Ram trucks with the Cummins engine in our family. With one of them being a 2013.5, 6.7L Cummins with DEF. I have ridden in this truck and I have no issues with the truck at all. It is a far better truck than my 2008, 6.7L truck with the same transmission, the 68RFE. What I have notice is the truck will behave differently with the exhaust brake on/off and on level 1 or 2. I have instructed my son who owns the 2013.5 Ram to run the exhaust brake in the less aggressive mode all of the time. This seems to allow the transmission and engine with the exhaust brake on to run smoothly and shift better between shifts. Just my seat of the pants observation.
 
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