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Won't work. The DSS stabilizer is kept up high, and the blocks drop the swaybar right in the path of the DSS bar. Now if DSS made a dropped version of their bar to clear the dropped swaybar, that would be sweet.
I just looked at mine as well a week or so ago. I have the Chase sitting in the garage waiting for good weather to install. Noticed the same thing. It was to cold to be out laying on the concrete for long so I didnt do any measuring but one thought that came into my mind was the DSS mounting plate or whatever it is called is attached to the square tube. Do you think it would clear if you cut that off and welded a new one on to the top of the tube instead or was that the bottom (in anycase the opposite side of its current placement. It would lower how far down the bearing sits but there might be enough room left on the shaft. And if it was too short could you add a longer shaft for the bearing to ride on. Or would a longer shaft put too much leverage on it. Do this even make any sense. Doesnt seem like I can explain this very well.
Won't work. The DSS stabilizer is kept up high, and the blocks drop the swaybar right in the path of the DSS bar. Now if DSS made a dropped version of their bar to clear the dropped swaybar, that would be sweet.
If the sway bar drop bracketry is at least 3 1/2 inches tall it will allow enough clearance to install the DSS, the bearing mounting plate will be above the sway bar.
If you have 2 inch sway bar spacers it will not allow enough clearance as the sway bar will be in the way of the bearing mounting plate on the DSS.
To cure this you can put the sway bar back to factory position and install the DSS as normal, you may or may not want to use different sway bar end links in this case to allow for the lift.
Or you can install taller sway bar drop brackets to allow the required 3 1/2 inches clearance for the DSS.
Someone else PM'd me today with the same question KYOUNG asked - coincidence?
I also had asked KORE about using the drop blocks with a DSS brace - they weren't included when I bought my suspension. Like Russell said, it's not going to work with the current configuration of the different pieces.
Larger drop block spacers would probably afford too much leverage on the mounting bolts. This is just speculation on my part - I'm not a mechanical engineer, and I haven't stayed at Holiday Inn for quite a while.
I like the suggestion for longer end links, but don't know where to get them. I see that KORE offers a whole new sway bar with their ultimate kit - wonder if they sell the bar assembly separately? If KORE end links will retrofit to an OEM sway bar (???) maybe they'll offer the links as a stand-alone replacement? Or will they be long enough? Seems to me that longer end links would offset the need for the drop blocks. Kent?
Do the drop blocks have a REALLY significant effect? Maybe they're needed only by the off-road racers? The end links on my sway bar aren't angled to an extreme position by the added height. And the sway bar action seems to work fine on my truck.
I don't want to lose my DSS brace. I think it's the cat's meow for the life of the steering gear. I'll stick with my slightly displaced end link angle, unless someone can suggest another idea.
Hey guys, this is Sage Carli. I dont post here much because of all the drama, but the stainless endlinks we use with our suspension system will solve your problem. We designed them to work with 0"-3" lift. Check out the site if you have a chance so you can see them. thecarlisuspension.com
Yes, the complete system works on the second gen. There is a change on the sway bar set up 94-98, but 98. 5 and up everything fits. Sorry, still trying to update the site.
ok carli suspension sells high quality adustable endlinks. They are good from stock to 3" lift. Just ordered mine today. Now I can install my DSS with the core suspension and my sway bar will be at the correct geometry. I am one step closer to building the "beast". I just need my buckstop outback deer killer :-laf