DT Trac bar is in

[Dane]

Just dragged my big butt out from under the truck The DT trac bar is in. Not too bad a job, but not a simple bolt in either due to having to drill two 3/4" holes through one side of a crossmember and relocate one brake line attachment hole. Some notes from the field...



1) The DT Profab folks make a 1st class piece for our Rams.



2) Getting the old trac bar out was fairly easy using Kroil penetrating oil and a ball pein hammer. I spun the ball stud castle nut to the top of the threads and alternated whacks on the bracket and castle nut till it dropped out.



3) Follow the directions line by line, I printed the ones from the DT web site cause my printer is better than theirs so the pictures were more clear than the ones that came with the kit.



4) Drilling the cross member - Repeat after me...



"I WILL WEAR MY SAFETY GLASSES!"



There is huge shower of metal splinters generated by the 3/4" hole saw. This is a glass eye makers dream, wear the glasses unless you want to spend a very unpleasant evening in the emergency room.



I bought a new 3/4" bi-metal hole saw from Sears for the job cause I did not want to futz around with a dull one. The Sears item has the removeable pilot bit as required. (Not really removable, but it's got two places to lock the set screw, one of the settings burys the bit in the saw) Don't forget to use lots of oil on the saw teeth and pilot bit.



5) Relocating the brake line - Take your time on this one cause the potential for disaster is there. When you redrill the brake line mounting hole make sure the line is not hitting metal anywhere. If it does, vibration over time can wear through the line causing a loss of front brakes. Once we had a truck in our caravan to Baja loose brakes due to bad line locating. Good thing we weren't on our way back comming down the Grapevine :{



OK, that's it for now. Gotta go center the axle and take a test drive

 

[Rob Thomas]

I have a question, is there a reason you need to use a hole-saw, and not a 3/4" drill bit? I have a 3/4" bit, the reason I ask.



Later, Rob

 

[Dane]

Rob,

Only reason I can think of is so you don't hog out the hole in the bracket. You use the existing holes in the bracket as a guide for the hole saw (or drill bit). Other than that, nope... a 3/4" hole don't know how it was drilled

 

[Rob Thomas]

Ok thanks.

 

[Dane]

Just got back from the test drive - I can feel a difference. Steering is firmer for sure. Didn't think my stock trac bar would be worn at 29K, but It does feel better with the DT. I have to redo my brake line attachment, it's too low and may be hit by the trac bar on big bumps. Didn't notice how close it was until I had the suspension resting on the tires. I should have put it above the new bolts instead of below

 

[KSTRS]

I am also currently installing the DT trackbar kit on my truck, first thing... to those who may be interested, DT is a Good co. to deal with & their track bar is a huge improvement over the stock pos on our trucks. However, to those of us who have a Mag-Hytec front diff cover, this kit is not compatable & you may have to choose between the cover or the trackbar kit. The frame bracket included in the kit is excellent though & I am trying to improvise a solution wich will allow use with my cover . It looks like I can use the frame bracket & have a custom heim joint track bar made for it. The trackbar included with the kit will not work with the Mag-Hytec cover, but the frame bracket does have ample clearance if a custom bar is used. Maybe I'm nuts & this is to much work but I've become determined to make it work (love that cover & want a better trackbar)

 

[GBerry]

DT?

well guess I've been slackin cuse I've never heard of DT do ya have a link to them???

thanks GB

 

[Dane]

Here ya go -



http://www.dtprofab.com/