DTT valve body.. help

[turbo lcc]

can anyone help me with a DTT valve body? I have read that this is the way to go. . well I am really not so sure anymore I am on my second transmission shop and about $300 dollars in labor into the little project and it is still not working. . The shops are getting 2nd gear starts (tried both resistor that came with the VB) and many others. . does any body have any ideas. . both shops are telling me the that the VB is bad. DTT says no. any ideas??

 

[Bob Wagner]

What year truck are we dealing with #ad


You may need a reflash

EDIT: DTT tests all of the VB's before shipping so its gotta be good.

Calm down and breath in.

[This message has been edited by Bob Wagner (edited 05-21-2001). ]

 

[turbo lcc]

2001

 

[K_Arts]

I can guarantee you that your VB was tested before it went out the door. According to what I have learned from Bill K... if you are getting 2nd gear starts, it sounds like they are using the wrong value resister.

Trust me you will not regret that DTT VB once it is working.

Kev

 

[Jetpilot]

Call Bill K. immediatly! He can help get it straightened out. The guys at DTT are the best and they really don't like for their customers to have problems... . Give them the chance to help resolve the problem.

I think that putting DTT and the transmission shop in direct contact will help the most. I know that Bill spoke with the shop that is to do my transmission prior to them touching it (the tc & vb go in Thursday #ad
). Bill called them on his own since this was their first DTT job and I requested he speak with them. I really can't say enough good about their customer service! I am sure DTT will get it worked out but they have to know about it in order to help. Give them a call.

Good luck,

Doug S.

 

[JR2]

I second that... call DDT right now and get them in contact with your shop. Bill K will do what it takes to get it working.

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John D. Rathert Jr.
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01 2500 Forrest Green Sport SLT+ QC LWB 4x4 Auto 3. 54 rear end with all options avail. DC Nerf Bars, DC Grill Guard, DC mud flaps, Line-X bed liner, Leer 160XL Topper, Power Edge, EZ Edge, SPA Boost/EGT Gauge on pillar mount, DTT's tc/vb combo, 275 RV injectors, DD 4" Exhaust and a KN RE0880 where the air box use to be. Fuel Pressure gauge, SS fuel lines and lift pump relocation on deck. See My Truck, Dads truck: 98. 5 3500 SLT QC LWB 4x4, Brother Truck: 92 W250 SLT CC LWB 4x4 (Dads old truck) Winter fun - 2000 Skidoo Summit 700
I am my own warranty station.
*************************

 

[KatDiesel]

Its not as simple as "adding" a resistor. Bill said trial and error to get exact value of resister needed, 1st measure elec value to see the voltage prolly 5 volts or higher, what you want to do is lower the voltage to 4. 67 to 4. 9 volts add resisteance to get in this range. So you might need a combination of resistors, fun huh?

 

[maint.man]

I'm with Kat on this one , I tried 6 different resistors before I got the voltage right, also the shifts. I beleive the phrase is Limp Home Mode that is giving you those 2nd gear starts. Hope ya' get it worked out cause I like wouldn't get rid of my DTT VB on a bet.

 

[tmacc]

Sorry, but this is a little off the subject. Can I change the resistor before I take the truck into the shop or will this cause the stock VB to have problems? Trying to save time and money. TIA
Tom

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by tmacc:
Sorry, but this is a little off the subject. Can I change the resistor before I take the truck into the shop or will this cause the stock VB to have problems? Trying to save time and money. TIA
Tom

You can change it, but it won't really save time. The pressures won't change until a different valve body or shift kit is added, so you can put the resistor in but it will be "hit or miss" if ya get it right. You need to measure the voltage after you "up" the line pressures.

Some trucks don't even need the resistor, so wait until the valvebody is changed.

 

[csutton7]

I put my resistor in before I did anything and had no probs-truck is a '99--chris---

 

[RobbyRam]

My DTT VB works great, but there has been at least one VB that was sent out bad.
I just received a replacement VB sent to my address by mistake to replace another guy's defective DTT VB. We got the name mix-up straightened out and I sent the other guy his replacement. He had already sent Bill the defective VB but never got his free replacement.


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Y2K Awesome Black LB 3500 QC SLT, 24Valve ETC ISB, 4x4, 4:10 LSD, DTT Custom prepared Auto transmission VB, Power Edge 'EZ', DD2's, K&N, Polished Stull Billet Grill/Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges, Rancho 9000's, Diamond Plated Tool Box, + a bunch of other stuff. Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!

 

[turbo lcc]

update:

DTT has been in contact with the trans shop. there have been numerous resistors tried and the voltage is in the range that DTT wants, last I heard from the trans shop DTT wanted them to test a few more things. . (I think the govoner pressure. )

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2001 Blue 4x4, swb, quad cab, auto, 3. 54, Straight Pipe

 

[jthorpe]

Originally posted by turbo lcc:
can anyone help me with a DTT valve body? I have read that this is the way to go. . well I am really not so sure anymore I am on my second transmission shop and about $300 dollars in labor into the little project and it is still not working. . The shops are getting 2nd gear starts (tried both resistor that came with the VB) and many others. . does any body have any ideas. . both shops are telling me the that the VB is bad. DTT says no. any ideas??

I had the same problems. We couldn't get the thing to work correctly so I ended up sending it back and going with a modified VB that the transmission shop setup. Very nice firm shifts, and strong solid power. The shop also put an RV type TC in the transmission and I haven't had any problems since. You can definately tell it's not stock, but it doesn't drive you back into the seat either. The main problem I had with DTT was sluggish shifting from second to third under light throttle and shifting into third even when I had it forced into 2nd. Just wasn't for me.

Jack

 

[Mopar-muscle]

jthrope , your sluggish shifting , which is refered to as hunting , and it shifting into 3rd when you were holding it in second are both due to your driving habits , i have experienced the same anomoly(sp?) . DTT sets the 2-3 shift to happen right around 25mph , not many people drive at that speed . the increased line pressure is reacting on both sides of the shift valve and it's not sure what gear it wants to be in , an adjustment can be made to move the shift point . the second anomoly of it shifting into 3rd while you have it in second is again created by how you drive , i have experienced the same thing , holding it in 2nd while your doing 35-40 mph , trans pressure builds up enough to make the shift happen .

i'm glad you're happy with the shift kit the shop installed for you .

the resistor is there to fool the PCM , some trucks don't need it , especially the newer ones , unless you have a 2nd gear start . are they sure its a second gear start and not the TV being missed adjusted and the trans shifting from 1-2 almost immediately ?


[This message has been edited by Mopar-muscle (edited 05-22-2001). ]

 

[jthorpe]

I didn't like it with the trailer especially. That's when the hunting was REAL bad. If someone is going to build a valve body for a truck pulling campers, not drag racing, I truely believe that they should take those things into consideration. You can't build a product knowingly ignoring the fact that heavy traffic jams and sometimes slow driving is going to cause the unit to hunt. Just my opinion.

 

[jthorpe]

Originally posted by Turbo Terry:
I have the same syptoms as above. I have decided that its a small inconvenience for the most part and mostly solved by proper fluid level and driving habit style. As in when you know its going to shift step into it a little instead of holding the throttle steady, Also if your driving in 2nd( why did you get a auto if you want to shift) do not let up on the throttle or it will try to shift up as stated above. Leave it in drive and go.

Fluid level and proper driving style really had nothing to do with it. If the VB is going to be used for towing, the manufacturer or the builder modifying the VB should take into consideration the fact that you're not always going to be able to stomp on the throttle to get the thing to shift. I knew when it was going to shift, and I did step into it, or completely let off to make it go into gear but why should you have to do that if the product is so great? I have a VB now that feels better than the DTT and I don't have to worry about any of that stuff.

As for keeping it in second, there are times when I'm going down some steep hills in my neighborhood and other times where I feel the need to keep the unit in second. If they didn't want me to shift in second, they shouldn't have given me that option. I didn't know that I needed to justify my purchase of an auto for you or a builder.

 

[Sky]

Brake pads are much cheaper than a new TC or transmission. Shifting down is bad for our Autos going down grades.

I pull a trailer everyday in traffic and I have no hunting problems. And I didnt buy the DTT VB and TC for "drag raceing", and Im pretty sure that Bill didnt build them just for that either. #ad


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2001 QuadCab,SWB,Auto, 4X4,4" Flowmaster Raceing Exhaust, DTT TC & VB, EZ Box, Bosch 275 Injectors, Mag-Hytech transmission pan/Dana 70, K&N, 33" BFG AT'S... ... .....

 

[Dieselnerd]

I've got a couple of comments:
Why can't someone get something other than DTT without being attacked as some sort of mental defective for not having the brains to buy the "best"? I'm sure that from the many comments I've seen on this site that DTT is a good product and deserves consideration but the slavish devotion of it's users is starting to wear thin. Other people do make good products and for some, these products may meet their needs better than DTT. It's called freedom of choice gentlemen. JMO... One other comment, where is it written that shifting an automatic into a lower gear to descend grades is bad for the transmission? Rubbish, it's common practice. The new Allison does it automatically.

 

[hammong]

Repeat after me: Using your $3500 automatic transmission to slow you down is bad. Using your $60 brake shoes to slow you down is good.

Granted, if you have the appropriate transmission upgrades, force your truck into TC lock, monitor your transmission temperature, and make effective use of an engine brake - slowing down with your automatic is an acceptable thing to do. But, you've already invested big bucks in "upgrades" just to do augment your inexpensive braking system.

Greg

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Y2K Dodge Cummins QC 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 Long Bed, 4. 10/Auto, Forest Green/Driftwood, 265x75R16 Michelin LTX, 6 speaker CD, Camper/Tow/Plow Packages, Westin Black Nerfs, Mopar bedliner, Ultra bright diamondplate toolbox, K&N Filtercharger, Autometer Ultralite EGT and Boost gauges in 2-gauge pillar w/tweeter, DD Stage II injectors, boost module, and boost elbow. Yee haw!
http://www.rints.com/hammond for photos!