South Bend Clutch (SBC) makes one of the best DD clutches out there for these trucks. Unless you are in the 400+ HP range and/or pulling extremely heavy loads, the SBC con FE style clutch is more than sufficient. Looking at your mods, an FE would be sufficient.
When you get into the DD clutches, the pressure plates become very heavy (effort to push) and can be a PITA in traffic. I have been driving a DD in my truck for the last 7 or 8 years. I am on my 3rd one from SBC (before the 3 DDs, I had a FE which would not hold 600 hp, a TST which I never found all the parts, and the stock, which did not last too long).
I do 20k stop and go traffic per year, and am getting 2-3 years out of a DD from SBC. My current one is nearing its end of life, I am hoping to keep it until next spring, then I will replace again.
As for the benifits, if you plan on getting into much higher HP, or are doing a significant amount of heavy towing, then the DD is worth the investment. They are noisy when you disengage the clutch (you can hear the intermediate plate rattle a little).
As for driveability, it is no worse than a ceramic clutch (for the grabbiness). Until you get used to driving it, it will be like a on-off switch. It can make backing up a heavy trailer on a steep hill a little difficult, but you will get used to it.
For the DD options, I have tried the following:
3850-12CB - unsprung disks
3600-12CB - unsprung disks
3250-12CB - with levered disks
To be honest, I have not been able to tell any difference between any of them. They all grabbed the same, and I have never been able to make any of them slip.
They are expensive. I can't remember the exact amount, maybe around $2k, with all the parts (flywheel, pressure plate, throwout bearing, shipping).
On an unrelated note, throw away that K&N air filter and get an AFE (or frankly any thing else). The K&Ns do not filter well enough, and the oil can damage your IAT and MAP sensors.