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Dual Mass Flywheel Failure can cause catastrophic failure.

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First post on this Forum, guestion about the 68RFE and towing

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I'd politely disagree with you on that. I've had two trannies rebuilt by Standard, and had several rebuilt for customers, and I won't let them do another. The current NV5600 in my '97 is howling like it's got a cat in it. Granted the engine makes a lot of power, but it still shouldn't be going away in less than 60k miles. Another one they did wouldn't shift, and when I tore it down, all the synchro's didn't get replaced, as well as two needle bearings. All of them make excessive noise, as if they weren't set up properly, or worn bearings weren't replaced.



I can be at Standard Transmission in Fort Worth in around an hour. Instead, I drive almost 3 hours(or have delivered) to Blumenthal's in OkC. I've only had one transmission that was questionable, and I've exchanged and bought quite a few from them. They have their own oil formulated exclusively for the NV4500 and NV5600 to help prolong their service life. I haven't used Standard in over 4 years, so perhaps things have changed? I don't think I want to gamble on it... .





I wish I was near two major rebuilders, but I'm not so Standard Transmission in Tucson AZ will just have to do, it's only an 8 hour drive for me. Richard at Standard Transmission who knows his stuff and has written several articles for TDR. I'm sorry to hear you had problems with them. I only have 50K miles on the G56 so it most likely wont need anything.
 
Our trucks might be capable of converting to this transmission.

Fuller Transmission.jpg
 
The contact gal at Blumenthal's stated to me that they are manufacturing NV5600 parts in house there.

This is THE reason we traded in our 05. The uncertainty of quality OME parts for this transmission. Did the cut and run while the truck still had a good trade-in value. They gave us KBB hi retail for it and a great price on the 12.
 
Blumenthal's has done me well. And I don't want to start a quality war between them and Standard, or Dodge and Chevy. Just wanted to caution that I had a bad experience with their products. Perhaps it was a specific tech that worked for them at that time? I don't know, but I'm loyal to who treats me right, so I use Blumenthal's, despite the longer drive. It's the same thing that keeps me covered up with work. There is not a decent shop nearby that can be trusted to do it right. I'm sure I'm not the best, but in this area, it seems I am the only one that can keep them working.



What about an Eaton manual like an 8 speed?. Should be a med. Duty manual out there to work with the 6. 7... .

Interestingly, every part in the G56 that I saw had an "EATON" stamp on it. The input shaft, main shaft, countershaft, and what few gears I could see well... ... Apparently the casing is the only part that is not Eaton..... :cool:



This is THE reason we traded in our 05. The uncertainty of quality OME parts for this transmission. Did the cut and run while the truck still had a good trade-in value. They gave us KBB hi retail for it and a great price on the 12.



Hmm, I don't think that was a good idea, but then I like my old trucks. As for the OEM replacement parts, I'm pretty sure Blumenthal IS manufacturing a lot of parts in house, or contracting out to local machinists in the OKC area. I've met several of them. One of them quit working for American Airlines maintenance facility to start his own shop. And is doing well. The market for the NV5600 is keeping everyone busy. The quality of the parts are second to none, I'd wager. These guys know quality, and they're not Union, so they have to build a good product or they won't be able to sell it. Blumenthal warranties their own products, so if they don't perform, it costs them. They don't make a profit rebuilding them on their clock.
 
The NV5600 production only ran about 5 years for the Dodge, and if thats correct it wont last long with someone manufacturing OEM parts, especially now that most warranties are over. The G56 has been in production almost double that by now. The G56 has a bad rep because of the DMF and ATF oil that attributes to the early failures. But some members here on TDR run them hard full time and with a better oil than ATF & with coolers, they stand up to 40K GCVW full time, with a solid mass flywheel.
 
HHhuntitall... I have 83,000 miles on my stock 2009 Dodge 6. 7 G56 DMF clutch (my truck is 4WD). I do not tow excessively, but I drive my truck pretty hard (at least that is what the old man says on the occasion he rides with me). For approximately 3 months, I have been slowly trying to figure out if my clutch is going bad.



Symptoms:

-There is a clicking noise that the clutch pedal generates when it reaches full travel in the disengaged position

-Sometimes the clutch pedal feels very spongy and feels like the travel is limited in the full disengagement position

-I have begun to feel pretty profound vibration from below the truck when I press the accelerator to the floor, once shifting from 3rd to 4th, 4th to 5th, and 5th to 6th . (feels similar to when my U-joints seized on my 96 chevy tahoe) I do not feel the vibration when I engage the clutch (traveling at any speed), or in the lower gears (so that makes me want to rule out an unbalanced drive shaft or U-joint failure), and I have never felt this vibration before.

-The other day I heard a rattle emanating from the undercarriage while going down a hill with the jake brake slowing me down (it was echoing off the road divider). Heard this noise a couple of times, whether using the jake brake or not; but always heard it when down shifting and letting the transmission/gear ratio slow the truck, on the down shift. I only heard this noise a for a few days.

-I am still able to start, from a dead stopped position, in 3rd gear. (This makes me feel like the clutch plate still has some life, however, the actual DMF rivets have broken and the DMF is beginning to separate).



Any opinions? What other drive/operation characteristics should I be aware of to help me figure this out? Additionally, if my clutch is going bad, any suggestions on replacement? I have thought about the Southbend Dual Disc or like. Thank you in advance.



BH
 
Well, if you start from 3rd gear, I'm gonna wager you're DMF is not in good shape. The rattle can be the clutch or the DMF. If you press the clutch pedal and the rattle stops, it could be in the transmission. Most likely it's the DMF. As for a recommendation on a clutch, I'm gonna say South Bend, as they've done me very nicely the last few years. I'm sure Perfection Clutch has some great offerings, too, but I have no experience from them. Valeo makes a solid flywheel conversion now, too, but it's a stock HP rating. I've installed several and not had any failures, yet. The oldest is 4 years old, I think, and one has 225K miles on it. They're considerably cheaper, but seem to do fine at stock HP levels.....
 
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