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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Dually Flared Fender Repair

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One of my rear flared fenders on my RAM 3500 is damaged. I bought some fiberglass repair, but when I looked closely I could tell the fender wasn't fiberglass.

So, off to TDR to find an answer. Now I've confirmed that the flared rear fender is in fact plastic and not fiberglass.

Does anyone know what kind of plastic repair material is available to repair my fender? I'm tempted to try the Off-the-shelf plastic repair epoxy material they sell at Home Depot that looks and smells just like the regular epoxy repair material.

Any and all ideas and suggestions will be appreciated.

I'll do my best to take some pictures just in case it works. ;-)
 
dually fender repair

I have a little experience repairing these fenders. first you will have to prepare the inside of the fender by sanding ,using a orbital sander or the likes. finish with paint prep to clean it. get some fiberglass or some type of nylon mesh and good old J B Weld. put a coat of the JB on and then lay the mesh into the JB. let this cure for a little while,and then put a good cover coat on. now on the outside. make sure you did the best job you could of matching up the crack to be as smooth as possible before you do the inside. then go ahead and sand, apply a light skim coat of JB on the outside and feather it out. wait till the next day and finish like you were going to finish bondo,prime,block,paint. worked great for me.
 
i liked to use the plastic repair stuff from the bodyshops,,but i drill a bunch of small holes all round the crack i want to fix,,then use the plastic mesh on the backside and squeeze some of the product through the holes to the outside it kinds of binds both front and backsides together,,on the frontside i usually grind down a bit so i can use some mesh there too,,so i dont wind up too high,,never had a crack return doin it this way.
 
POR15 Resto Grip will do it After going to the autobody shops and them all telling me it can't be repairedI tried it myself vs 1200 fender. I had a crack about 5" and then on the rear end of the wheelwell opening a hole the size of your fist:eek:





The crack I ground a knife edge on both sides of the crack and opened it up near 1/4". Then just plaster it up and you can add a bit more on the backside. The sand it to the rough shape, Finish with the POR15 body filler forgot the name but it sands easier.



The bigger hole I bought a thin aluminum forsale sign and cut it to the shape I needed which was 1. 5" bigger than the hole. Prepped the hole with a knife edge around the opening. Take the aluminum and butter it up with resto grip and place it on the back like a bandage. You can butter up the back of the ground edges also. While holding it then butter the exterior side a bit more just make sure it back so when you sand it it is not super thin. You can also let the resto grip harden and add more later. Just make sure you get the rough shape formed on the resto grip because when it gets hard it is real tough to sand later. Finish with Straight Line which is the POR15 filler and easier to sand. Prime and paint. Auto body shop mear me will match you paint and put it in a regular spray can.



Hope the above makes sense. Drilling a few tiny holes may be good also as stated above but i didn't and it has held fine for 60,000 miles. I even hit it hard with my hand a few times with no il affects. POR15 paint is great for stopping rust also and the stuff is tough as nails and even bends when hard and wears like iron.



The fenders are SMC Sheet molded compound like a new Corvette body panels. The Corvette manual will tell you how to repair it but the Resto grip is what I used.



Putty, Fillers, and Sealer-POR-15 Inc.





I did use the POR15 fuel tank coating stuff in my big trucks steel tank and it has held up great for 3 years. It is still on the fuel tank cap chain. I am not a salesman for POR15 I just love the products.
 
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