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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Dually lug nut torque

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What are you guys torquing your lug nuts to on your 3500 duallys? I just lost a set and am in the process of replacing the studs and nuts
 
Left side yes I went 170 with blue loctite don't know if it was a good idea thought I'd try it though
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Are you running aluminum wheels? Are they factory Dodge type? Looking at the picture, it looks like your wheel center is larger than your hub. I don't see any shinny rub marks, like a hub centric wheel would make on that rusty hub, as they come loose and wallowed around. It looks like the wheels may have been supported by just the studs??

Nick
 
Running dodge wheel on the inside aluminum on the inside

Okay cool, I assume you meant aluminum on the outside. Don't mind me, I am always trying to trouble shoot reasons for unusual failure's. You are the second one this week with a dually falling off.

Nick
 
I'll take all the help you can offer .yip dodge wheel inside aluminum outside I really think the tire shops are way way over torquing the nuts I've set my wrench to 200 and still haven't got a nut to move . Wish I had a reverse able torque wrench
 
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I really think the tire shops are way way over torquing the nuts I've set my wrench to 200 and still haven't got a nut to move . Wish I had a reverse able torque wrench

Wow!! I've been torqueing the lug nuts on my duallies to 130-150 ft-lb since 1996 and have never found a loose one. If they're torqueing to over 200 ft-lb, the studs/nuts may have yielded and lost their prestress!

Rusty
 
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I'll take all the help you can offer .yip dodge wheel inside aluminum outside I really think the tire shops are way way over torquing the nuts I've set my wrench to 200 and still haven't got a nut to move . Wish I had a reverse able torque wrench

That's why I rotate my tires myself. I toque the lug nut in two steps... 100 then 140 then recheck the nuts at 140 once more before calling it done. I use a calibrated torque wrench that hasn't been abused and thrown around on the shop floor. On the 3rd gen trucks with the flanged lug nuts, I follow the instruction by lubricating the flange to nut area with one drop of oil in order to obtain the correct torque on the nut.

Bill
 
I always shoot for 150 lbs in two stages on my dually trucks if I'm doing it manually.

200lbs is easy to achieve if your using a 1/2" high torque impact with 120psi or better using the mid setting. I think the low setting is 95 lbs at 120 psi. I need to check mine and see, but 150 lbs is not easy for me using a normal size 1/2" drive click type torque wrench. So, mid setting on my impact makes life easy, my impact is a beast at 150 psi. I just did some suspension work with it, makes removing rusty bolts a non-issue. The 1200 lbs impacts are very helpful. Very useful on lower ball joints etc. I don't really know what mine actually does, but its north of 200 for sure, gotta remember to use the mid setting and not over torque the lugs.
 
I set the wrench to 250 ft lbs and still couldn't get any of the nuts to move I am trying to find a torque wrench that will read in reverse does anybody know of one ?
 
I guess your trying to set the studs? Or remove lug nuts? I had a Tire Kingdom shop tighten mine tight, had to go out and buy a longer breaker bar and use a cheater pipe when rotating tires at home. Even with lots of leverage the breaker bar flexed a lot. That convinced me I needed to get a real impact air gun or two, If money is an issue, Harbor Freight has cheap air tools, even 3/4 and 1" drive with decent sockets. I run their Pro series impact sockets in 3/4 drive on my equipment and trucks. My 900 ft lbs 1/2" drive ATP impact is plenty strong for Dodge truck stuff. I just did ball joints on my 95, my air tools pay for themselves over and over again when I can do the work myself at home.
 
I guess your trying to set the studs? Or remove lug nuts? I had a Tire Kingdom shop tighten mine tight, had to go out and buy a longer breaker bar and use a cheater pipe when rotating tires at home. Even with lots of leverage the breaker bar flexed a lot. That convinced me I needed to get a real impact air gun or two, If money is an issue, Harbor Freight has cheap air tools, even 3/4 and 1" drive with decent sockets. I run their Pro series impact sockets in 3/4 drive on my equipment and trucks. My 900 ft lbs 1/2" drive ATP impact is plenty strong for Dodge truck stuff. I just did ball joints on my 95, my air tools pay for themselves over and over again when I can do the work myself at home.

I was trying to see where the tire shop had them torqued to . I torqued the new ones to 175 just to seat the studs took several re torques to get them to stay
 
I don't have a torque wrench big enough to hit 150 easily, so not often. I just use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and put all my weight on it, nothing has ever fallen off.
 
That's a lot of money for anything that says craftsman on it . How often do you guys check your lug nuts with a torque wrench

Actually it is a Stanly-Proto:) I don't use a torque wrench, just an air gun or my electric impact. Not a recommendation, just the way I do it.

Nick
 
Right or wrong I don't torque my wheels either. I generally run them on carefully with my little 3/8 cordless impact which I know is good for 100 ft lbs (with a good battery). Then once the truck is back on the ground I go back through with my breaker bar and finish them off. Once you get the feel for the required torque I can get them close enough to not have a problem. (Never have either, by the way). People will disagree but after spending 18+ years working with anything from 1/2" flanged pipe up to 36" (and occasionally up to 84") I can comfortably say exact torque is not nearly as critical as achieving proper alignment and even torque. We've successfully drawn up pipe with pretty substantial misalignment with an 1-1/2" drive impact capable of 3,000 ft lbs of torque countless times. Just gotta draw the gap up evenly.
 
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