2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission DW questions

[TMills]

I have had the full DW experience about 4 times now in 3 months. It is getting somewhat rediculus. I have converted to the inverted T-setup, checked ball joints (checked out ok), did the zip tie in the steering shaft to tighten it up, luk's linked the track bar, did the alighnment myself (caster at the 12 o'clock and toe set to 1/2" in), and installed a DSS. None of these cured the DW. The truck has same as stock michelin tires and are run at 35 psi.



I have two questions:

1. I have recently found one of the bolts that holds the wheel bearing to the knuckle has come out. I bought a new bolt, but it will not go back in. Could this contribute to the DW experience?

2. Since I installed the luk's link, I feel a clunk on the floor board when going around turns. The link is tight and will not move when the steering wheel is moved back in forth. Is this normal?



Thanks,

Todd

 

[Fishin Guide]

If you are missing bolts in the wheel bearing hub, it is suspect.



Check the ball joints.



1/2" of toe sounds like way too much to me.



You do not have enough air pressure in your tires. Run the fronts at 65 psi and the rears at 60psi. Yes, it will ride stiffer. But the tire will wear very well and not be "spongy". Also, I got over 60K of perfect wear at these pressures.



Any "clunking" noises mean something is loose or binding. Find it and fix it. It's probably the axle end of the track bar or a lower shock bolt.



Check for play in the link arm bushings.



What kind of shape are your shocks in? Are they stock? If so, they are probably toast. Also, how does your steering stabilizer look?



Dave

 

[TMills]

I have checked the ball joints. There is no noticeable movement.

I run the 35 psi, because that is what KORE recommends. I have there PACE system.

I have checked all lower shock bolts and both ends of the track bar. They are all secure and tight.

I am not sure exactly how to check for play in the link arm bushings. Instructions?



Todd

 

[Fishin Guide]

KORE recommends 35 psi? Anything near 40 psi with my stock Michelins was like driving on snot. I can understand that pressure in a much larger tire, but not a stocker. But I have been wrong before.



Dave

 

[TMills]

ttt - I know someone can help me.

 

[DBohl]

your alignment sounds suspect to me and the low tire pressure only makes it worse. you may want to give the people at Kore a call as well.



Doug

 

[BDeArmon]

1/2" total toe is kinda high. I have not checked what the full size trucks are running, but I am willing to bet it will be very close that of the jeep wranglers..... 1/8". Someone with a FSM can probably shed some light on the actual specs.



If something is "clunking", then something is loose... and stands a good chance of contributing to death wobble. Find it and fix it! Worn bushings on the links (control arms) can cause it, and are often overlooked or not checked properly. Check all joints and bushings with a pry bar, don't just grab them with your hand and feel for movement. It is easy to miss loose/worn components if only checking by hand.....



I would also check that tire pressure. 35 is really low (that is what I run in my 3500 pound jeep with D rated tires... ... . your truck is almost twice the wieght and probably has similar size/rating of tire). Get a piece of chalk and draw a 1" wide line across the tread of one front and one rear tire. Drive around the block. The chalk line should "wear" evenly. I'm guessing you will find the outside edges of your tread are wearing faster than the center section... . but the only way to be sure is to actually check it.

 

[TMills]

I have been informed that 1/16th is the correct toe-in. I will set that tomorrow.

I have been searching for the cluncking. The luke's link is tight and will not move. The other end may be the culprit. I was able to tighten it about half a turn and really put some torque on it. We will see tomorrow.

I have raised the tire pressure to 45 psi. We will see how that works tomorrow also. You are correct about the tires wearing on the outside more than the inside.

Thanks,

Todd