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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Dynatrac Installation Pictures.

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was your old cad operational ?

b/c if it was that means all your freeing up is the axle shafts from spinning ... . i have got a late 02 so i dont even have a cad system my axle shafts and my drive shaft spin all the time i would save all kinds of fuel ... .


has dynatrac dropped there price to compete with ems offroad?
 
Great series of photos and info, Bunyan. That setup is high on my drool list to go along with the NV5600 and NP205 conversion I am doing. Eliminate the weak links as much as possible.



It is troubling to see how necked-down the inner shafts still are, though. All the rest of the shaft beef does little good except to offer the illusion of larger (1. 5 inch?) shaft strength.



That has been my objection to the much cheaper EMS setup. But upon seeing the Dynatrac necked shaft, I don't see as their's is any better, just more expensive by almost twice. I suppose the alloy used would be the deciding factor.



From what I can see, is the Dynatrac inner shaft any thicker at all, given the necked down portion, than the stock inner shaft? I wonder why a guy couldn't just weld the two stock axle halves and sleeve together to eliminate the two-piece design if that is the case?



It's a darned shame we have to spend so much money to go back to something that still isn't quite as strong as the real Dana 60's of old. But at least we can get close. Old school was better school. A couple thousand more dollars upgrading the junk coilspring, trackbar, control arm and multi-link steering and suspension, and a guy could have a real truck again.



Thanks for taking the time to photo-chronicle and share a great step-by-step installation for us!
 
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Notice!!!

NOTICE!!!



These are not Dynatrac axle shafts. These are stock Dana shafts. I could not use Dynatrac shafts due to Dynatrac suspending the sales due to the passenger cad seal leaking.



I used the same shaft for the driver side and a late 02 axle for the passenger side. The axles measure 1 1/2"s , but that narrow area is very small. I can't remember its diameter. This is a very week point.



Well with the shift on the fly is nice for sales, it hurts anyone wanting the heavy duty front end. Most everyone here likes not having to get out and locking in the hubs. I myself prefer the beefer axles. Hell is'nt that what we paid for. Lets make a truck a truck! If you want a car they sell those too!!!



My cad did work until late January this year. The entire driver side was engaged full time, including the driveshaft and right inner axle. The cad only disengaged the right wheel, outer stub axle and middle axleshaft.



As for the price dropping, I don't know.
 
So Dynatrac hasn't worked out the seal problem I read about here awhile back yet?



You would think it would almost be as cost efficient to press new tubes with kingpin knuckles and old-style seals into a dodge pumpkin and just be done with it. You could use readily-available, super-tough Chevy outer components, which would save tremendously on the manufacturing of the spindle adapter setup. You would also have the far superior kingpins. End of problems.



Sure, shipping would be more as you exchanged your stock housing for their modified one, but it would be worth it imo.



Maybe someone will yet come up with a conversion kit to just bolt a complete Ford leafspring, kingpin, high pinion Dana 60 into our Dodges...



Thanks for straightening me out on my assumption the new inner one-piece shaft was also from Dynatrac. No wonder it was still necked-down and not any beefier looking than the stock 2-piece.



You are still way ahead of the stock Dodge design reliability-wise and getting better mileage to boot.



Thanks again!
 
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Well I think in my orignal post there was mention of useing Dynatrac axles. I should have caught that and made corrections. I thought about replacing the entire axle with a new one, but the cost were very high. Seems something like the $6500. 00 - $7000. 00. I think this settup will be good except for better traction. I wanted to use the true-trac LS. With my health condition, doing anything more will wait for a few years.
 
Given the available options and $7000 (!!?) cost, you did the best option, imo. I have a Powerlok for my front and a Powertrax for the rear if I ever find an open factory carrier to install it in. We are definitely on the same page.



Was that late-model one-piece axle shaft expensive and did you buy it new or used?
 
The Dynatrac for the AAM works well on the 3G's. I saw a 1-1. 5MPG increase and finally solved the high speed drive line vibration issues, not to mention getting the servicable Timken wheel bearings that replace the stock unit bearings.



SR
 
I used a drimmel tool with a drill bit looking cut tool. Started from the recessed area on the outsiide of the cap and made shallow passes to get through. Once I was through, I would take off about 1/16th of material until it slipped over the hub. You need to make the hole just a bit larger. If you make it a snug fit it's hard to remove the cap without chipping the edges.

The first cap I did, I made to large and it does'nt look good. I cut it from the back side and the cut was to big. That's is the cap you see in the pics. If you look at the pics you will see that. I will get me a new cap one day and cut it right. The hubs were black and I painted them chrome. The hub is cast with the outside being rough. When I get time I will sand it smooth for more of a machined look.
 
Hi, I'd also like price data, and where did you get your kit? I just lost a unit bearing in my 03 3500 SRW and am thinking of a kit. Thanks, Chuck (colchucky@gmail.com)
 
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