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Dynoed my truck, I knew it was a DOG! :(

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engine problem codes

FYI: 35k warranty visit....

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I got my truck DYNOJET Performance evaluated
today and it just confirmed what I already knew, it's a DOG! It dynoed WITH my 'EZthe same as Ian's(TreeMan's)2001 did STOCK! UGH!

Anyway here are the results, both Peak
and SAE average:
Max AVG HP before EZ = 163. 2 Torque = 318. 9
Max Avg HP after EZ = 194. 1 Torque = 409. 7

Max Peak HP before EZ= 170. 2 Torque = 332. 6
Max Peak HP after EZ = 202. 2 Torque = 426. 8

I'm going to install DDII's, and I've already paid for another DYNO run so I'll post the results as soon as I can.
Bob




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Bob in Sacramento, Y2K Black 3500 ISB 4x4 4:10 LSD,Auto,QC,SLT Laramie, Slightly BOMBED :) LB, Polished Stull Billet Grill & Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges,Rancho 9000's set at '1',Diamond Plated Tool Box, OEM U. R. Bedliner + other stuff.
Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!
 
Robby, I would look for something that's wrong before I did any more, with a ez you should dyno at lease 250 hp. someone tell me if I'm wrong. good luck Ray

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Ray Davis
99 3500 4X4 5sp Banks Stinger Plus
 
I don't think an EZ would get you to 250, but 225 should be attainable with it on. Could just be one of the lower power engines. For every hundred engines there will several pigs, several screamers, and the majority somewhere in the middle. I don't think you could go wrong taking it to Cummins and having it looked at though. Good luck Bob.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member
 
I thought the same thing, I should have more HP/TQ stock, however, I also saw the Dyno numbers for a '99. 5' 24 valve 3500 Auto that was about 10 hp less than mine in stock configeration. Either our stock trannys loose way to much thru the Torque convertor, or DC is detuning these babies way too much! BTY,
in 1996, I test drove a 2x 3500 Auto 12 Valve and it seemed WAY more powerful than my Y2K 24 Valve. As you can expect, I'm more than a little disappointed!
Cummins West will diagnose my stock Y2K for $147. 00 with no adjustments.
DD2's at $600 seems like a better way to fix this, don't you agree?
Bob

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Bob in Sacramento, Y2K Black 3500 ISB 4x4 4:10 LSD,Auto,QC,SLT Laramie, Slightly BOMBED :) LB, Polished Stull Billet Grill & Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges,Rancho 9000's set at '1',Diamond Plated Tool Box, OEM U. R. Bedliner + other stuff.
Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!
 
Bob, I would go to Cummins first. IF there is something wrong you could aggravate the situation by trying to get more out of it. I would want to know that everything is "in spec" before I add anything. Really, in the grand scheme of things, what is $150 anyway? Another thought, are you using winterized fuel? The 12v you test drove is going to feel more powerful because you are not asking a computer for power, you are demanding it from a mechanical system. Remember that a stock 24v is only going to give you the power that it thinks is needed for the situation, that is why we fool them with boost modules and fueling boxes to begin with. Last thought, the stock TC is a pile of shi..... no doubt about it.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member
 
LSSmith,
Thanks very much for your sincere advice. Still, I'm leaning towards the DD2's because of the immediate increase in HP/TQ! If it sends my TC through my floorboard and sends it into my back seat, at least I'll have a story for the TDR, right? I'm willing to take the chance for the good of the TDR board, as an experiment for all of you,"I wonder if I did this stupid move?", super members!

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Bob in Sacramento, Y2K Black 3500 ISB 4x4 4:10 LSD,Auto,QC,SLT Laramie, Slightly BOMBED :) LB, Polished Stull Billet Grill & Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges,Rancho 9000's set at '1',Diamond Plated Tool Box, OEM U. R. Bedliner + other stuff.
Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!
 
"Auto Expressions" behind Costco, off Sunrise South. They use DYNOJET. Not Mustang. They (David) is very good.
He tries several runs to get a accurate base-line.
It's $75 for about an hour and a half of testing. However, if you want to change anything during the run they don't charge extra, (ie: hook up your 'EZ')and for $125, they will let me come back a month later with new injectors and there are no more charges!

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Bob in Sacramento, Y2K Black 3500 ISB 4x4 4:10 LSD,Auto,QC,SLT Laramie, Slightly BOMBED :) LB, Polished Stull Billet Grill & Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges,Rancho 9000's set at '1',Diamond Plated Tool Box, OEM U. R. Bedliner + other stuff.
Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!
 
Check the fuel pressure coming from the lift pump. Why stop at DD2s #ad
when there are DD3s that will make the Ram so much less doggy #ad

I agree, find out what's going on before modifying it and risking warranty coverage on a factory problem.

Don't feel too bad, my Sickly Ram dyno'ed at 143. 8 hp (with the valet valve) #ad
 
My 200l. 5 seems to have a power problem.
does o. k. in 1st 2nd and 3rd but overdrive it is gutless. Not happy with it. Maybe I'll have to call the dealer, see if a reflash would help.
 
Trucknut,

My '01 auto runs exactly the same as yours. I took mine back to the dealer and also tried going through the DC support line with no help from either. They said the truck "Seems to run fine. " They said I shouldn't expect to tow anything in OD. Makes me want my 5 speed back.
 
Check for boost leaks as well as fuel pressure. Your dyno readings seem way low, something is definately going on. Take it to Cummins, and if nothing else, you'll at least have piece of mind.

My truck dynoed stock at 234/489, with K&N and straightpipe.
 
I'd definately figure out what's wrong with the truck (definately sounds like something is) before I started adding on aftermarket stuff. As others have said, if I were you I'd find a Cummins dealer and spend the money with them so that the truck is running correctly stock. Then once it's running right decide whether you want more power than that (you probably will #ad
but at least you'll be getting your full money's worth!)



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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, custom ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)
 
Robby, I met you up at Brandons Place a Couple of months ago. I have one of the most early build date for a 24v. Mine is the 215hp Auto 410's 4x4. I had my truck dynoed at Cummins West here in bakersfield a coupl of times.
Stock:
178hp at 2000rpm
182hp at 2500rpm.
275RV Injectors:
200hp at 2000rpm.
235hp at 2500rpm.
275's and VA:
250hp at 2000rpm.
282hp at 2500rpm.

For some Reason, Cummins West's Dyno will not measure Torque?. Make no sense to me.
Drive Line Losses are around 20%.
Doug.

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1998. 5,2500,ISB,Auto,CC,4x4,4. 10's,Suregrip,White Sport,Isspro Boost & Pyro,275hp Injectors,VA,PS Boost Module,DTT Valve Body,BD Pressure Lock,Mopar Perf Alum transmission Pan,16x8 Eagles,285/75/16 Bridgestone MT's,2. 5" Skyjacker Lift,Stockland Seibring Shell. Uniden HR2510 Ham/CB
 
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