Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission E-Brake Adjustment

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Valair or Southbend

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12v troubles

Status
Not open for further replies.
Question about the E-Brake...



THought this would adjust accordingly to the wear but it didn't seem to... put the brake on this morn and the truck started to roll... thought my brakes needed replacing so I went to do that... they were good...



How tight do I need to adjust and what would be the best way to do? I put the brake about half and went from there but not sure if I did enough



Thanks

Mikey
 
Ok well this is just my opinion. If you have rear drum brakes, I beleive you need to make sure the brakes themselves are adjusted properly first. Then check your parking brake. If it still seems loose then work from there. If you don't then the next time you replace your brakes you will also have to undo what you did. I have found though that just adjusting the brakes themselves usually fixes the problem.
 
Haven't been able to get the darn thing to work properly since I bought the truck. The dealer told me that since it's such a heavy truck it will only hold so much. They adjusted it, a different mechanic adjusted it, many times. It holds for a week or two then loosens right up. Won't hold on a hill. I've become acustom to carrying a wheel chock with me. Perfect solution? No. But works really well and I was getting tired of having them adjusted over and over.
 
Sounds like the dealer guy is just tightening the cable linkage and not actually removing the disks and adjusting the shoe adjusters. I did mine a couple months ago. I had a new set of shoes ready to install but found the original pads were thicker than the new ones and left them in. Its has been workin and holdin fine since. @108k. The front disks and pads are another story.

mike
Palmer, Ak.
 
That could be. Can't ask them about it though, as a few months ago they sent a letter to all their customers saying that due to economics they were selling their Dodge franchise to a local Jeep dealer and now they have become a Mazda dealer. At first I was dissappointed, but in hindsight, it was the right move. They have to survive somehow. I'll keep your suggestion in mind next time I address the situation. Thanks.
 
Sounds like the dealer guy is just tightening the cable linkage and not actually removing the disks and adjusting the shoe adjusters.



You don't have to remove the disks to adjust the parking brake. There are slots in the dust cover (backside of the p-brake drum) for access to the adjuster's starwheel.
 
keep in mind too, the rear discs are not the e-brake, there are shoes on the inside of the "hat" that need to be adjusted. Try loosening your cable, adjusting the shoes, then re-adjust the cable if needed.
 
If those of you who are going to keep their trucks with rear drum brakes decide to convert to disc with a conversion kit you won't be disappointed. EGR (add in TDR) makes a fine quality kit. (I am not connected to them in any way) I was amazed at the difference in stopping ability. They were more than I wanted to spend but if they save one fender bender they are worth it and more. I have electric trailer brakes (drum) and needed something more. I believe that because the trailer brake control senses the rate of deceleration that it will then apply more if the deceleration is greater. Go ahead and tell me I am nuts, I am accustomed to that. I will not ever again be without disc on all 4. A Lady pulled out in front of me while driving my old 1990 Nissan with rear drum brakes and I stood on the break pedal and it did not slow down enough. She got cited and I got 17 days of misery where the seat belt possibly cracked cartilage in my chest. No air bag in a 1990. Here in Florida you can't collect for injury unless it is permanent lifetime injury. They changed the law in 1993 because there were too many false claims an Attorney told me. Gives you a little more reason to be careful. The drivers in Ohio seem pretty bad and I think they are a little worse in Florida. U-Turns are legal here in FL and I don't think they should be. I look for it to change. We are getting cameras to fine red light runners. I am seeing them at almost every intersection. GOOD
 
That's for the tip on drum vs disc brakes J. BURCHFIELD. I have been considering whether that conversion is worth the money. How much did it cost you? Do the rear disc perform that much bettter than drums.



I have never successfully been able to adjust my rear drums to hold the truck on a hill. It sounds like the disc setup is worse since the emergency drum shoes are smaller using the disc setup. Is that correct?



Another thing to add to my long list of BOMBS. I'd rather modify my 97 than pay $50K for a new truck anyhow. I love my 12 valve 5spd.



Dave
 
Dave, from my own experience I would never be without disc brakes on all 4. I got my truck new in 98 and drove it 10 years and always kept the rear drum brakes adjusted. After the conversion kit was installed last year I was more than pleased with the improved stopping distance. The kit was $1,200 and that was for the Emergency brake set up. No Emergency brake would have been $1,000 but there are situations where the Emergency brake is a must. If you get caught in an inspection without it you are in trouble. The kit has been well engineered and was complete with everything needed. If it prevents one fender bender and it very well could it has then paid for itself, in my opinion. The people at EGR are knowledgeable and friendly. The shipping is an expense also but if you live close to South East US it would be not as bad.
 
Yes,
Just exactly like drums. The back side of the brake disk has an inset just like a drum brake with an adjuster wheel just like regular drum brakes. I took the disks off to adjust mine because i intended to inspect and if needed change the parking brake shoes. turned out they just needed to be adjusted. You can access the adjuster wheels through a hole in the backing plate without removing the disks. Just remove the rubber plug and stick your brake spoon in through the hole. Personally I recommend removing disk and inspecting the shoes. then turn the adjusters out till you have to wiggle the disks back on. Also, back the cable adjuster out before adjusting the shoes or they still wont work right.
 
I had the same problem with the e-brake not holding. I would just make sure it was in 1st or reverse and the brake set when I parked it. The other day I decided to do the disk and pads on the rear and while I was at it adjust the e-brake, that's when I found the problem, rear axle seals leaking. After seal replacement and e-brake shoe adjustment, I can't even move it in 1st gear with the brake set. The Chrysler factory manual states not to adjust the cables, but adjust the shoes, they adjust exactly the same as conventional drums by turning “star” nut. If the cable pulls too far it will over rotate and damage the mechanism that actuates the shoes.





James
 
Yeah, I've dealt with the leaking seals thing, but that was fairly recently. I know that it would make them fail, but my problems started within the first year or so of ownership. I guess once the weather gets warmer, I'll have to get under there and adjust the shoes again and see how long they last.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top