E-brake breaking ISB?

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Just finished installing the BD exhaust brake on my ISB. Excellent kit, everything just bolted on and all electical stuff was the right length and quality. Now the question:

Started the thing up and during warm up with the brake ON the engine REALLY sounds likes it's laboring. On the road, decelerating from 60 mph or so it sounds fine, just like a real Jake brake, but when I come to a stop and idle, it sounds like I'm in gear with the clutch half out (which I'm not of course), really working. Is this normal? I checked the exhaust pressure and it is around 16 to 18 psi at idle. Do the other e-brakes (ie. those with a hole in the plate, Jacobs, Pac-Brake, etc. ) also load up the engine a lot at idle? Is it REALLY OK to warm up the engine with this thing ON and the engine loaded up like this? Sure don't want to break something. Thanks for the advice.
Ron.

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'00 2500, 4x4, QC, Cummins ETC/6spd, 3. 54, Camper, Trailer, SLT, 4ABS, BD E-brake, Pullrite 20. 5K 5th hitch, Tekonsha Envoy-SX Tbrake, Flame Red/Silver, Agate

 

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Its the back pressure that slowwing the engine Rs down. I talked to a guy from Cummins who has the Jacobs brake. He keeps his on all the time and does use it for warmup with no problems. Not sure about any other brands of brakes. Id definetly wouldnt want 100% restriction. Maybe someone else can clarify things better than I.

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1999 2500 Cummins w/4spd auto,Quad Cab,SWB,4x4,Flame red ,all options less leather and radio controls on steering wheel,OEM color matched runningboards,DeeZee bedrails painted black,Power Vision Mirrors,OEM ventshades,Oem sill covers,OEM underrail bedliner

 

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It's working normal, my BD exhaust brake does the same thing. That's what it's supposed to do, restrict the exhaust flow to force the engine to work harder. I've had mine on my truck for over 2 years now and I use it everyday.
Andy

 

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rwv, the factory setting on my BD exhaust brake (at idle) was/is 24 psi on a borrowed gauge (0-30 psi gauge), 27 psi on my new VDO Vision gauge (0-150 psi gauge). BD recommends 20-25 psi at idle. With the 0-150 psi gauge temporarily installed, I road tested this setup after installation to check max. unloaded (no trailer, camper etc. ) back pressure down some "semi-steep" inclines. I was told by the owner of a performance Diesel shop who installs hundreds of these yearly, that I should be below 50 psi. per the prior listed parameters. My max. back pressure was 35 psi. My BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc slow my Ram down very well, especially in 3rd (OD off). The BD exhaust brake can be adjusted (tuned) to your specific requirements depending upon maximum braking rpm and GCVW that might be encountered. You do not want to exceed about 55 psi under max. conditions.

Disclaimer: The entire preceeding is based on 60 lb. valve springs (12v or 24v).

As Andy stated, It's OK to warm up the engine with the exhaust brake activated. As the exhaust brake places a load on the engine, I would not activate same, prior to letting the oil pressure come up to full operating pressure.

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (Black) SLT Sport, personalized license plate: BLCKOUT, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, 275 hp. injectors, Glasstite Vision II "canopy", Line-X bed liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, VDO Vision gauges, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights and Super White bulbs, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, and Banks exhaust.

SVP of BOMB! heh,heh,heh

 

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I agree with John, do not turn on the exhaust brake until you've got oil pressure. Also, don't have the exhaust brake on if you're going to be shutting the engine off. It raises EGT's, and you don't want to shut off the engine with high EGT's. This is why I consider a pyrometer gauge to be an absolute necessity. Save your turbo!
Andy

 

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Right you are Andy! A turbo is a terrible thing to waste! LOL