2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission e brake cable

[Mhannink]

well after lifting my truck the ebrake no loger works. i put it back in the stock location and when i step on the pedal it goes to the floor and clicks once. im wondering how i can remedy the situation since i need that cable i do use it when i dont wanna shut down and its just idleing. any help will be appreciated thanks in advanced

 

[jelag]

I can only assume that you've either pulled it out of the connection where it goes from one cable from the pedal to 2 cables, one to each back wheel... or you've pulled the cable out of one wheel... . You might have been able to stretch it to the point that it won't work... you might first try to take up the turnbuckle or adjustment where it changes from one cable to 2 cables going to each wheel... usually behind the frame on the drivers side in front of the rear axle...



Hope this helps. .

 

[Mhannink]

well as far as i can tell the cables are in at the wheels and the turn buckle is fully shortened and all connected

 

[JGK]

Have you lifted the rear axle off the ground and adjusted the brake shoe adjustment wheel manually through the slots in the back plate of the brakes?



The auto-adjusting capabilities of these don't last forever.



Before I rebuilt my brakes I noticed when the e-brake pedal went to the floor the shoes were way out of adjustment. The auto-adjusting capability didn't work anymore. However it does now after the rebuild.



-Jay

 

[WDixon27]

i did the rear shoes last saturday on mine, i thought the brakes were good and the pedal didn't really sink, the parking brake was just about on the floor and could hit the floor if i wasn't on flat ground and wanted to make sure it would stay put, i popped a drum to see what i looked like in there as that's about the only thing i haven't addressed and there was about half of the shoe remaining and they were all cracked, a $32 o-reily house brand set of 13x3. 5 shoes some grease and a couple hours later and this pig stops better plus the parking brake hits up real high, it didn't really show many symptoms of bad rear brakes other then little parking brake

 

[Mhannink]

well my brake was good before i lifted it so i figured it was the cable. my problem is that my drums dont come off. belive me ive tried they are frozen on and i cant get em off. if i have new brake shoes for it but cant put them on. i also need the part number for the chevy wheel cylinders so i can do that too.

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

If your talking about the 95 in your sig; the drum might not come off until removing the axleshaft and bearings, but not 100% on this. Even if it does(did ) come off seperate from hub, that may be your only option. Hope this helps,



Steven

 

[HEMI®Dart]

well my brake was good before i lifted it so i figured it was the cable. my problem is that my drums dont come off. belive me ive tried they are frozen on and i cant get em off. if i have new brake shoes for it but cant put them on. i also need the part number for the chevy wheel cylinders so i can do that too.

I think I know what you are talking about w/ the stuck drums. They rust on the axle flange. It's a pretty tight tolerence on the I. D of the drum (small part) and the O. D of the axle flange. You may need a big sledgehammer. Or do a search. I read about putting the rear on jackstands, wheel off, starting it, putting it in gear and hitting the brakes. This should break them loose.



I was looking into the Chevy 1 ton cylinders too. I converted mine to the 3500 Dodge 1 ton cylinders along time about It was a great mod. The Chevys are even bigger, so a TDR member noticed "increased pedal travel" which personally turned me off. I dunno.

 

[Mhannink]

If your talking about the 95 in your sig; the drum might not come off until removing the axleshaft and bearings, but not 100% on this. Even if it does(did ) come off seperate from hub, that may be your only option. Hope this helps,



Steven

well im pretty sure that these drums come off seperate. im not 100% either but all the other dana 80's do it why not mine

 

[JGK]

If the drums are well worn, they won't come off until you back off the adjustment wheel and let the shoes come in. The drums wear but leave a ridge at the outer edge (nearest the backing plate) and until you make the shoes smaller in diameter than this ridge, the drum won't come off. Of course, it will probably be a little loose, so if yours are tight, I suspect they are a bit siezed.



Try the idea suggested of spinning the axle with it off the ground and the wheels off and jamming the brakes. I, too, have heard that works. Maybe a light squirt of penetrating oil around the hub/drum junction and letting it sit a while, first.



Let us know...

-Jay

 

[Mhannink]

well i did back the adjust wheel all the way down so that they would not contact and it was still a no go. im thinking ill have to try the spinning trick though i really dont like the idea

 

[WDixon27]

squirt the contact area where the drum meets the hub with a good penetrating oil, kroil if you can get it if not use pb blaster and drive it a day or two give another treatment or two through the slots in the rim if you can and then try it, i soaked the hell out of mine right after i got the truck while getting the stuck duallys off but never touched the drums, when i went to do the brake job i gave it a squirt tapped it hard with a brass hammer once all the way around and the left came right off, the right took a extra squirt and a few more laps around with the hammer, a really good penetrating oil will break down the rust not just make it wet like wd40 or liquid wrench

well i did back the adjust wheel all the way down so that they would not contact and it was still a no go. im thinking ill have to try the spinning trick though i really dont like the idea

 

[Mhannink]

im gonna hit the area w/ pb and let it soak then maybe it will come off