Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) e.g.t.temp

[vaicase]

i want to know what temp i should have after the turbo i got the sensor in the cast iron peice after the turbo what is the temp differene between before and after the turbo i think it is 200-300 degrees

 

[jrhodes]

Yeah, its around 250 +- degrees post turbo difference from pre turbo

 

[WadePatton]

DON'T count on it!

For cool-down purposes, post turbo is THE place to have your pyro. For max EGT while towing or pulling hard you really need the probe PRE-turbo.



At least that's what a lot of folks around here with experience say. Be careful.

 

[jrhodes]

Wade is correct. If your towing, or pushing the engine really hard, the probe needs to be pre turbo to get an accurate and reliable reading.

 

[CPjMech]

I would agree that pre-turbo is hotter (usually 250f-300f), but the way the manifold on my '00 is designed you are only getting a reading from the front 3 or rear 3 cyl. What good is that? We are told from CAT that the probe is to be within 6" of the outlet of the turbo, that is how all our perf spec's are written. They are not really concerned about pre-turbo temp, 'till you get up to the large bore hi HP gensets or Marine engines where individual cyl temps are monitored. Not trying to start a war or anything just offering my $. 02. Opinions are like... .....

 

[RustyJC]

At light loads, post-turbo EGT may be 250 degF or so cooler than pre-turbo EGT. At heavy loads (like when pulling a 13,500 lb 5th wheel up a mountain), post-turbo EGT may be as much as 400 to 500 degF cooler than pre-turbo EGT. Therefore, you really can't just do a simple addition that fits every situation to convert post-turbo to pre-turbo EGT.



Rusty

 

[WadePatton]

That's CAT's opinion...

Originally posted by CPjMech

I would agree that pre-turbo is hotter (usually 250f-300f), but the way the manifold on my '00 is designed you are only getting a reading from the front 3 or rear 3 cyl. What good is that? We are told from CAT that the probe is to be within 6" of the outlet of the turbo, that is how all our perf spec's are written. They are not really concerned about pre-turbo temp,



Opinions are like... .....

CPjMech- First, CAT is dealing with engines that are running near their rated HP. Post turbo may be fine for that. WE are BOMB'ers. Many of us (see Power Poll III-- https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=787059#post787059 ) are running engines set up for 160-245 flywheel HP at 300-600+ rearwheel HP (68% of votes and some MUCH higher).



Second, we tap the rear section of manifold because #6 tends to be the hottest cylinder.



Third, we've discussed this many many times before: (link to search: "pre and post"-titles only)



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...d=127164&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending



That's OUR opinion. It's not copied from a manual, it's from practical experience of the membership here. PRE for more accurate and faster registering temps on a performance modified engine. Read UP!



edit:

With your current mods, it shouldn't be an issue--if you add injectors or a hotter box you might want better info from your exhaust.



Also-ever hear of the carb mod for Suzuki Crawlers that makes the 2nd BBL work? I met the guy that developed it the other day.

 

[Big-D]

Wade,



I agree with you 100%. For our needs monitoring both pre and post will protect against damage and undue wear. The rear 3 cylinders for pre-turbo is proper placement in my opinion.

Dave

 

[CPjMech]

Like I said not wanting to start a war, just my . 02. I can definitely see both sides on this one, not saying one is better than the other. If I ever really bomb my truck Im sure I'll be drilling on the manifold too I sometimes forget the design and rating diff between our Cummins and the yellow iron. I have run a few of the old Cummins Big Cam 4's and 3406CATs on the dyno that were no where near stock, and being used as daily drivers. Nothing like having 1500HP and 3500 ft lbs of torque 2 feet from you





On a side note Wade asked:



"Also-ever hear of the carb mod for Suzuki Crawlers that makes the 2nd BBL work? I met the guy that developed it the other day".





I have bombed my Suzuki as much as you can, I got rid of the factory POS carb and went to a 32/36 Webber. Good for about 20 HP and a lot of bottom end. As much as you can get from 1. 3L

 

[WadePatton]

thread diversion

"as much as you can"



He said he had two transfer cases mounted back to back--and had to upgrade to landcruiser running gear when the big tires started snapping the little OEM stuff. Sounds like serious BOMB'ing to me.

 

[CPjMech]

Suzuki stuff

Im prob gona get it now for taking the thread all over the place, but here goes. I feel like Im back on my Sami group now



I've seen the dual t-cases, great if you are into rock climbing where you really need all that reduction. I just run 4. 16:1 t-case gears w/ 2 wheel drive low range option instead of the stock 2:1. Thats good here in WA, we have lots of mud here, no so much rocks. Just depends on where you're at. Lockers front and rear, spring over,custom bumpers, carb, cam, forged pistons (bored over) and header and exh. I Only run 31x10. 50 tires (still more ground clearance than a CJ Jeep on 33's) that keeps you from snapping drive lines, axles, birfields,etc. Better stop before I get thrown out of here



Now back on topic