Easy way to add in-bed 7-pin trailer connector in 3rd Gen?

[klenger]

Has anyone found an easy way to add a 7-pin trailer connector inside the bed of a 3rd Gen for towing a 5th wheel? I'm wondering if there are any adapter cables that would not require cut and splice.



Also interested in any reports on installing the Reese rail kit in a 3rd Gen.

 

[bmoeller]

Don't recall who makes them (Hoppy?) , but if they are available for the new trucks, there should be an aftermarket harness you can get that has the factory style plugs. It has the same ends needed for hooking up to the truck and a 4 flat plug. Have to buy the adapter for it to convert to the 7-pin. I got one of those for my Ford so I didn't have to splice anything. Works great. The adapter I got was for the 6 pin round connector.

 

[y-knot]

Here is what I always do. I get some good 7 -wire cable, install a fe-male end on one end, and wire the other up to male receptacle mounted in the bed. Then I just route the cable along the frame and secure it close to the factory plug where it is plugged in. You do not have to cut any wires, no problematic t-taps, nothing. And you can still use the factory plug if you have to.

 

[Loren]

On both my 1995 and my 2000 trucks I have done basically what y-knot has suggested.



You can buy a 7-pin extension cable from an RV dealer (probably also available from Camping World). Mount the female end (receptacle) at the desired location in the bed. I mounted mine on the left rear corner. Route the cable down to the factory receptacle at the trailer hitch. Secure with cable ties or other means if necessary. Cut to length and install the male plug.



To use, plug the extension cable into the truck's factory receptacle. I leave mine plugged in all the time unless I am towing the travel trailer or the flatbed.



This method doesn't require disturbing any of the factory wiring.



Loren

 

[Dean Upson]

Got my harness from Mopar.



Dean

 

[klenger]

Per Dean Upson, the following kit is what I need:



Part Number 82207253

Trailer Tow Wiring Harness Kit, with 7-way connector, plugs into vehicle wiring, no splicing required



MSRP: $73. 00



Custom fit to DaimlerChrysler Corporation wiring specifications. Mopar wire connectors minimize the need for wire splicing and feature a protective wrapping that guards against weather and abrasion.



Thanks Dean

 

[Fireman]

Ken I installed that kit myself and it is realitivly painless. You do have to solder one wire to a pin in the tail light connector (back up lights) and one into the trailer brake connector. But it is by far the neatest and easiest way to do it.



Fireman

 

[klenger]

Fireman:



Does it plug into a 4 pin trailer connector? If not, what does it plug into? Does it have male and female connectors that go in-line with one of the factory light plugs? Still confused on how it works, and am concerned about spending $73 for the wrong part.

 

[Fireman]

Ken,



Yes, it plugs directly into the 4 pin trailer connector. You just jogged my memory a bit, here is what you need to do (or what I did). Get a 60" 4 pin trailer wiring kit, the one that has a male plug on one end and a female on the other connected by 4 wires 60" long. I put mine in a piece of split loom, connected one end to the plug mounted in the bed routed the loom down to the plug at the rear bumper. Then secured the new loom to existing wire loom with nylon wire ties.



I think I used a 2" hole saw to cut the hole in the side of the bed. The 7 pin plug is pretty deep, but there is more than ample clearence for the plug in the lower half of the bed behind the left rear tire. I mounted mine higher to clear a 10" tall tool box and there was barely enough clearence between the inner bed and fender. (the wires have to make a sharp bend coming out of the connector.



If this isn't clear or you have other questions feel free to PM me or call the # listed in my profile.



Fireman

 

[DPelletier]

Ken,

I am following this and two other threads on IRV. 2 about the same thing. I don't wan't to do what Y-knot suggested as I need to use both plugs at the same time. Dean's (and Fireman's) solution is closest to what I'm looking for, except it still requires some "messing around". What I really want is to disconnect the factory plug in going to the seven prong and insert a Tee and plug the seven prong AND and the box plug (another seven prong) into it.

Probably doesn't exist

I suppose I could buy all the parts from the dealer and an RV supply house and make my own, but I am lazy! Actually I just don't have time.



I'll keep you posted if I find anything, after all, you don't have your new truck, yet!!!



Dave



ps. Torklift makes an external tee plug in assembly if you're interested. I want something permanent, myself.

 

[klenger]

DPelletier



You and I are on the same page. I think I will wait till I get my truck to see what I have to work with. I can use the plug on the bumper for awhile. In fact, if I remove the tailgate when I tow, I can use the bumper plug all the time.

 

[Diesel Nut]

Bed mount

I was hoping to find a piece that maybe splices into the connector without disturbing the wires. Unplug the factory plug on the bumper, plug that into a wire harness and then the wire harnes would plug into the factory plug as well as have a pigtail coming out of it to use in the bed. All the wires for the seven pin are there. Anyone know if something like that exists?

 

[DPelletier]

Diesel Nut,

Thats what Ken and I are looking for. If I find something, I'll post it here.

Dave

 

[Dean Upson]

Re: Bed mount

Originally posted by Diesel Nut

I was hoping to find a piece that maybe splices into the connector without disturbing the wires. Unplug the factory plug on the bumper, plug that into a wire harness and then the wire harnes would plug into the factory plug as well as have a pigtail coming out of it to use in the bed. All the wires for the seven pin are there. Anyone know if something like that exists?

If you are just going to do that, why not buy the moulded male end pigtail to whatever length, attach a female end to it and fashion a retaining clip to your trailer to keep the cord away from your tailgate. With this extension cord you could just plug into the existing set-up. For that matter you could just put a longer cord on the fiver and hang it from the trailer, it would probably be cheaper and easier than putting the recepticle in the bed.



Dean

 

[Fireman]

Dave,



I looked and looked for some kind of adapter, but never found anything. The beauty of what I did is that it was realitivly simple, I didn't have to cut any wires or go "into" any wiring harness, and I now have a seven pin plug in the bed AND in the bumper. They both look like they were factory installed ( in fact one was)



Fireman

 

[DPelletier]

Dean,

My issue is that I don't have a 5'er, I have a camper and a trailer. I need both plugs at the same time.

Fireman,

Thanks for the input. You're solution sounds like the best one so far. It would obviously be ideal if someone makes what I'm describing. As I'm not camping for a few months yet, I'll keep checking for awhile yet.



Dave

 

[klenger]

Geno's, we need help. Make it and they will come.

 

[DPelletier]

Now you're talkin'!



Dave

 

[Shooter]

I looked for the same thing.

It is not available. No T type harness that will plug in line to fact harness . Do it yourself kit.



Guys: the 4 pin connector does not supply 7 ( all used with 5th wheels ) pins with 7 different functions.



I mounted the box plug low and near the tailgate. Ran my 7 wire cord to the fact harness just behind the fact receptacle. Spliced and soldered into the fact harness between the fact receptacle and the first harness tye to frame. coated each splice with Scotch liquid tape, Scotch 33 then wrapped the bundle with 33 and one wrap with splicing tape then final wrap with 33.



That is why I was asking Ken back in Aug for harness color codes and pin outs. He supplied me all the info but current ( 3rd gen color code ).



Ken , I have the info when you need it



The Reese rail kit is a bit of a bugger to install on a big butt because of working around or removing the duals: not as bad on my srw, I did not have to remove tires.

The most important thing is to drill small pilot holes and insert a wire in the rear rail holes to make sure the bed inserts ( spacers ) are tight against the back of the U cross member. If they are not properly located you can drill new pilots that will properly locate the 1" holes for the spacers. If not seated against the rear of the U chanel the front rail front bolts will come through against the front U cross member and you will not be able to get a socket on the nut, if you can get the nut on the bolt at all. The frame brackets ( special Dodge kit ) are easily located by bolting to bed rails then center punching the frame for drilling. I did have to grind about a 1/16" clearance for o/l spring perch clearance on 2 frame brackets but that could have just been the manufacturing tolerances on my truck. Bolts fish through frame as in the past.



I spent 2 anal days installing mine.



Jack.

 

[klenger]

Thanks for the update Shooter. I have decided on the PullRite Super 5th and SuperRails hitch. I kind of figured that there wasn't any harness to extend the 7 pin plug. My plan is to splice a 4 pin mating connector and hook into the 4 pin factory plug, and then splice the remaing three wires into the factory harness. Once I get the truck, I will look into it more closely.