EBC Sport Groove Rotors/ Goodridge brake lines

[John]

Hemi, willyslover...



I'm thinking that the EGR front brake lines (Teflon/Kevlar/braided stainless steel... i. e. , more expensive materials) did not fit on Hemi's Ram because it has been lifted (or at least leveled... i. e. , lifted). In that case, he should have stated as such to EGR at the time of ordering. You see, EGR offers braided stainless steel brake line kits for lifted Rams... you just need to specify this at the time of ordering. In fact, I believe Glenn (of EGR) asked me if I had a lifted suspension when I ordered my brake line kit.



Although I wouldn't exactly say the kit is a direct, easy bolt-on replacement for the factory brake lines (the rear on 2500s takes some creativity to route in a satisfactory manor), it's not hard either. The front brake line routing is just as it is with the stock brake lines. In the case of the front brake lines, the installation instructions provided by EGR are more of a liability than an asset (IMO).

 

[Cooker]

Brad,

Just curious what the price is on them now. Is it the $198 - 20%



www.tirerack.com is $150/pair but they are currently back ordered.

 

[Steve Campbell]

GWHaley....

..... so, do the "Dimples" just afford a place for the "dust" to accumulate while braking, and then fly off after you let off of the brakes, or is there a more high tech reason for them?

 

[GWHaley]

This is the way I understand it. When the pads clamp the rotor, obviously extreme heat occurs. With that heat, a "gassing" or type of burning of the pads occurs. With flat (undrilled, ungrooved or undimpled), this gas (and the accompanied heat) has no where to go but back to the rotor. With grooves,holes or dimples, the gas is allowed to dissipate much faster and thus not quite as much heat into the rotor. You can also affect this by using softer/grippier (nice tech term) pads so they don't have to grip the rotor quite as long to produce the same stopping power.

Hope this helps.

 

[Extreme1]

Originally posted by GWHaley

This is the way I understand it. When the pads clamp the rotor, obviously extreme heat occurs. With that heat, a "gassing" or type of burning of the pads occurs. With flat (undrilled, ungrooved or undimpled), this gas (and the accompanied heat) has no where to go but back to the rotor.

Yup, it also causes "fade" which is the excess gas coming out of the pad material (the binder specifically) and providing a very small shear layer that keeps the brakes from working when hot. That's the big advantage of slots and holes, they let the gas escape. Expensive (good) pads use a different binder and other materials that don't produce as much gas when they get hot.



Those rotors do look sweet!

 

[Steve Campbell]

Extreme one wrote...

quote:

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Originally posted by GWHaley

This is the way I understand it. When the pads clamp the rotor, obviously extreme heat occurs. With that heat, a "gassing" or type of burning of the pads occurs. With flat (undrilled, ungrooved or undimpled), this gas (and the accompanied heat) has no where to go but back to the rotor.

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Yup, it also causes "fade" which is the excess gas coming out of the pad material (the binder specifically) and providing a very small shear layer that keeps the brakes from working when hot. That's the big advantage of slots and holes, they let the gas escape. Expensive (good) pads use a different binder and other materials that don't produce as much gas when they get hot.



Those rotors do look sweet!"

________________________________________________



Could an individual make a template (looking somewhat similar to the pattern on these rotors) and go to the drill press and set a "depth stop" that only allowed the bit to go in say 3/16ths of an inch and drill his own rotors when new?

 

[GWHaley]

Re: Extreme one wrote...

________________________________________________

Could an individual make a template (looking somewhat similar to the pattern on these rotors) and go to the drill press and set a "depth stop" that only allowed the bit to go in say 3/16ths of an inch and drill his own rotors when new? [/B][/QUOTE]



I suppose you could but, if new undrilled rotors cost say $50 ea. and you spend 2-4hrs drilling them, plus the cost of drill bits, it would be about a wash compared to the cost of the already drilled/dimpled ones. That also dosen't take into account that one might get messed up or worse yet, used with improper dimpling and the rotor were to break and... ... ... ... ... With brakes it is ALWAYS better to err on the side of safety/NEVER try to save money on brake parts-it's not worth the consequences.

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Check out this post!



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=68456&highlight=rotor+sfb





SFB

 

[John]

You wouldn't want to hand drill the holes in the rotor. In addition to taking quite a bit of time to accurately layout each row of holes (for equal spacing), the accuracy would probably be off enough to effect balancing. There are only two ways to do the job accurately, 1) layout the rows of holes and use a precision dividing head to facilitate the drilling operation using a milling machine or extremely "tight" drill press* or 2) program a c. n. c. milling machine to do the entire job with maybe 15-20 minutes or so (depending upon whether slots are specified as well. ).







* holes only using a drill press (slots would be out of the question).

 

[ramsalot]

Hey guys,



How about front rotors for my 94 2wd dually? Any clues?



thanks



Andrew

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Goodridge brakes line are CRAP

Put Goodridge SS Brake lines on last weekend. Had leaks at all OEM hard line connections . Went back and re-tightened (overtightened... what choice did I have?) Now 2 are dry , 1 still weeps.



VERY dissapointed w/ Goodridge lines. Went to NAPA and bought new OEM left & right hoses.



Now the flare threads are galled and won't thread into the OEM hoses. I could try to chase the threads to clean them up. I don't have a die handy that size. Or get/Make new OEM hard lines.



The Goodridge's are staying on for now.

 

[B KIRK]

Sorry to hear about your troubles Bill. Are you sure they didn't send you metric threads by accident? Had the same problem with a EGR hose. Had to send them my factory hose so they could make one. Took a couple of weeks to get it back, then was told it would be a couple of months before they could make me one.

Put the factory one back on for good.

Thanks for the info on the Goodridge hoses. Will stay away from them.



Brad

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Brad,



I am going to call Goodridge and ask them that. The flare nut screwed all the way in w/ just fingers. It seemed like the correct thread. Not a loose feel at all.



I hate brakelines! Nothing ever goes right after they are distrubed.



I also DREAD the thought of having to R&R the 3 front OEM factory brake hardlines, especially the right side.



Off Rant

 

[JGK]

I put on the EGR SS brake lines nearly a month ago. I also had the problem of some of the fittings leaking. Called Glenn. He said you sort of have to re-shape the surfaces on the end of the line and inside the fitting. Do this by tightening the line down, back it off, tighten it down, back it off, etc. 3 or 4 times. This should seal them off. I did that. Not a drop of leakage since.



Also, I highly recommend getting flare nut wrenches for these. They will significantly reduce the chance of rounding off the nut and you'll find you'll use them on other projects.



JK