Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) EGR and Torque Plate

[EBansberg]

I've got a 97,at, and just got a #10 and was about to install it but from the tst website it looks like they don't recommend any upgrade plate for this EGR engine. From Piers it looks like I'm ok with the #10 but no higher. Anybody know why, and can I get rid of the EGR stuff without the MIL on all the time?

 

[EBansberg]

sorry but also, what would a new afc spring do. I've been reading but don't know exactly. Thanks, I'm still green to all this and trying to soak it up like a sponge.

 

[SEmerson]

You can put whatever plate you want in it. Thge reason the strong ones aren't recomended is a egr engine doesn't breath well. You need to get a blockoff plate for the exhast and a 49 state intake. then you have a not egr engine

 

[jtwcummins]

With the EGR you won't get the full power possible with your plate. Will fall about 25 HP short. You should open up the exhaust and intake for better flow to keep EGT safe. You might want to take the intake apart and clean the soot out of the manifold, on mine the vac port to the turbo was plugged. I removed my EGR but if you block the vac line to the valve It won't be a problem. I also used a 2" speed bit on an extension and 'unplugged' the cat. It's still there but hollow.



I did mine upgrades in steps.

1. Disabled the EGR and started getting heavy black smoke under light throttle, not much boost at all.

2. Replaced exhaust manifold with ATS 3 piece and installed Banks Brake and their exhaust included with the power pack. Also, added AFE filter to intake. This eliminated the smoke from exhaust and EGT was 200-300* less than with factory stuff. Also, noticably quieter operation in the cab.

3. Installed plate and twin ram. This is when I found a pile of soot in manifold. When done what a difference in performance, no more flat spot getting on freeway and can run the Grapevine towing 6k in OD and at 26 lbs boost the EGT stays below 1150*.

4. Installed heavy exhaust valve springs for EB. . Replaced all 12 springs so I can go to GSK

Been running for 2 yrs and auto hasn't complained. I am getting DTT this winter so I can add injectors and other toys in garage. Towing is the only time I have noticed any real increase in MPG, about 3. Still getting 13-14 in town and 17-19 on hiway depending on right foot.

 

[EBansberg]

When you disabled the EGR didn't you get a MIL or "Check Engine" light. I know I already replaced the EGR valve when I first bought the truck (previous owner paid for it) because it was causing the light to go on and I didn't want it on when I bought it. So is there a way to remove it from the computer or fool it? I have a stock exhaust manifold non EGR so i would just need an intake right?

 

[EBansberg]

When I first bought the truck the MIL/"Check Engine" light was on. It turned out the EGR valve was bad and the guy i bought it from paid for it. My question is does the computer actually know what's going on or is it just looking for a vacuum signal to the valve? I don't really want the light on even though I know why. Second, I have a stock non-EGR exhaust manifold, so all I would need is a non egr intake manifold right?

 

[SEmerson]

I have removed then on many trucks and never got a light. You may get a code though.

 

[EBansberg]

don't the code and light go hand in hand. When the light comes on, you check the code through connector right? I have a code reader but am I wrong about a code always setting the light?

 

[SEmerson]

not all codes turn on the light.

 

[jtwcummins]

On the 97 the ECM checks the intake air temp when it turns on the EGR solenoid. If the temp doesen't increase by about 10* the MIL is set, a 32 code is flashed. Looking at the actual computer code it is for low EGR airflow. I used a relay from radio shack in place of the solenoid and when it picks up the resistance is changed in the IAT using a pot. By playing with the pot I was able to keep the lite off. Use the EGR solenoid in the front axle vac line to keep it off in 4x low for backing trailer.



Dealer didn't have any idea where the 'EGR control Module' is or that IAT is used to check operation. I found info on Alldata. When I knew this I looked up the resistance curve for the IAT. Took 80* as base and set pot. This enebled getting it right quickly. Low outside temps haven't had any affect, MIL stays off.

 

[EBansberg]

if I put in an ecm from a 49 state truck would that work since it shouldn't have EGR but should still be able to control the AT transmission?

 

[SEmerson]

Start by unpluging the egr and see if you get a light. I have done this on 3 97's and never got a light.

 

[EBansberg]

I already know the light will come on since it was on when I first bought it because the egr valve was faulty. The vacuum canister must've leaked because it wouldn't hold a vacuum but the new one does. But the point is that it set the light before so I'm sure it will again. I just want to know if I could switch the computers.