Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) EGR block off plate

[sstockton]

My buddy just bought a '96 california truck. And We are planning on tweaking the pump tomorrow, I've also heard that it helps tremendously to disable the EGR system. I haven't looked to closely at the system, and my 95 was the year before they started putting this system on the trucks. Anyways, it looks to me like a standard fuel pump block off plate out of a chevy or ford would do the trick. But like I said I didn't look at it to long or closely. Any hints would be greatly appreciated. And do you know if this actually makes a difference.



Thanks,

Sean

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Yep one of those should work, but on the intake horn you need to block that side too, or find a non-EGR horn. They show up on eBay pretty often, but a TDR member might have one laying around that he'd be willing to donate. Check the Classifieds too.



Getting rid of the EGR would be good. . . nothing like breathing your own diesel exhaust, doesn't do anything for the longevity of the engine!

Vaughn

 

[sstockton]

cool thanks, Thats what I thought, as far as the blocking goes, as well as the fact that Using smoke for air doesn't work very well.

Thanks again for the input.

Sean

 

[EBansberg]

I used some angle iron and drilled two holes for the studs coming out of the manifold. then I fashioned some spacers out of some tubing i had. The studs have a long shoulder so you need some way to tighten down on it. Find a manifold for a non egr. I bought mine used for like 30 bucks. If you look inside the egr manifold, it necks down just before the crossover to create a venturi to suck in the soot from the exhaust. That should lower the air intake restriction giving a little help toward MPGs and lower EGTs. You're lucky in that the 96 shouldn't throw the check engine light. Mine does and I have learned to ignore it.



Here's a pic of mine so you can get an idea. (not bad for a camera phone)

 

[holmanrd]

Hey guys, just keep in mind that a visual inspection is just around the corner here in the people's republic of California. I took the EGR off, and with the ends of it as a template I cut some 1/16 SS plate. Drilled some holes and bolted it all back together. Heck you can't even tell.



Now, I am looking for a higher flow manifold (ATS, Banks Hi-Ram, etc. ) so I think I'll just cut the EGR port off my Banks Ca legal manifold, throw some JB weld on the side of the new manifold and the "False" EGR port, repaint and presto. Might even fool the most picky inspector. I'll let you all know if it works and if the JB weld hold up to the heat. Good Luck, Robert.

 

[EBansberg]

do you have the banks twin ram? I was under the assumption that it had no egr and came with a carb approved sticker. does your check engine light come on?

 

[jtwcummins]

Banks twin ram comes in both configs, EGR and Non EGR. I installed the non EGR and an ATS exhaust manifold at the same time. The cat has been hollowed out. Got CARB stickers for the twin ram and the exhaust. You should get a check engine lite and the flashed code will be EGR solenoid failed. The ECM checks the intake air temp and when the egr opens it checks for at least a 10* rise in air temp. This is easy to defeat with a relay in place of the solenoid and about 12K ohms from the NC contacts to the IAT signal line and about 8k ohms in the NO contacts to the same signal wire

 

[holmanrd]

jtwcummins is correct the Twin Ram comes inboth configs. I just happen to have the EGR model that I beleive is more restrictive thus my decission for a better manifold. Now, for the engine light. I am one of the gamblin kind who have been ignoreing the light until I had time to research more about the whole solenoid, ohm resistors & relay thing. You see, I am what they call electronically handicapped and I don't have the slightest clue as to where to start. If any of you more inteligent life forms could inform me it would be greatly appreciated because I am sick of looking at this light. Robert

 

[jtwcummins]

It is fairly simple to put together, what's needed to keep that lite off.

1. Get a 12v relay from Radio Shack, they have a HD one.

It has to have Normally open and closed contacts, DPST.

2. Remove the EGR solenoid and mount the relay in it's place.

3. Use the 2 wires to the solenoid and connect to the relay coil, no polarity concerns. This give 12v to the coil and picks up the relay when the EGR solenoid is suppose to energize.

4. Remove connector to IAT and turn on ign. Find and mark the one showing 5v to grd.

5. Run a wire from the 5v feed to one side of both sets , NO/NC, of relay contacts.

6. On the output side of the normally closed contacts connect about 12-13K ohms of resistance. Leave the other end of resistors open for now.

7. On the output side of the normally open contacts connect about 7-9k ohms.

8. Connect the loose ends of the resistors together and add a wire to the other IAT wire, this is the returned signal side to ECM.



This should tell the ECM the IAT is about 65-70* when the relay isn't energized and about 85* when it is energized. You might have to add resistance to the normally closed side or reduce it the the NO side. The lower the R the higher the temp fed to ECM. Make sure the ign is off before doing any hookups.



Now you can mount the EGR solenoid near the front axle if a 4x4 and run the front axle vac thru the solenoid. Setup a switch, 12v, and the front axle can be disabled when in 4x4 low for backing trailers, etc.