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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Egr Brakes

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) no start

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dstafford

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How Do You Like Your Egr Brakes? Would You Spend The Money Again On The Egr's? How Was The Installation?

'94 4X2 241,000 IN NASHVILLE TRAFFIC !
 
dstafford said:
How Do You Like Your Egr Brakes? Would You Spend The Money Again On The Egr's? How Was The Installation?

'94 4X2 241,000 IN NASHVILLE TRAFFIC !

I had the EGR rear disc conversion done and for the first time it actually stops. I tried slotted rotors,high performance pad,removing the proportioning valve per tsb. and one ton wheel cylinders(never tried the Cheby ones. With the camper on it just choked in panic situations. The installer did have some part snafus which egr corrected and emergency brake is less than stock,but overall its a great improvement. You might try the Chevy wheel cylinders first. as a lot of guys have had good luck. The egr stainless lines do firm up the pedal some too.
 
i had EGR brakes i hated them the install sucked the brakets didn't fit around the axle and i had to regrind all of them to make them fit then one of the caliper pins was drilled croked and i had to have them send me a new braket that need to be ground again and the ebrake never really worked good always went out of adjustment i paid almost 1000 for the brake conversion then sold that whole axle i got a 2002 dana 80 with posi and factory disks for 1200 shiped to the local dock and the factory brakes stop better with the two piston changing pad is easy now that the pistons dont need rotated while being clamped to reset them the ebrake is completly seperate and works great and the rotors are floating so no more pressing studs to change rotors

olny good thing i can think of for them was the replacement pads at carquest were olny $12



if it were me i would swap the whole axle to a newer one with factoy brakes



ken
 
KHelfrich said:
i had EGR brakes i hated them the install sucked the brakets didn't fit around the axle and i had to regrind all of them to make them fit then one of the caliper pins was drilled croked and i had to have them send me a new braket that need to be ground again and the ebrake never really worked good always went out of adjustment i paid almost 1000 for the brake conversion then sold that whole axle i got a 2002 dana 80 with posi and factory disks for 1200 shiped to the local dock and the factory brakes stop better with the two piston changing pad is easy now that the pistons dont need rotated while being clamped to reset them the ebrake is completly seperate and works great and the rotors are floating so no more pressing studs to change rotors

olny good thing i can think of for them was the replacement pads at carquest were olny $12



if it were me i would swap the whole axle to a newer one with factoy brakes



ken
That is the very best solution. The installer had been looking for just such an axle forever for his '97 to no avail. Everything had way too many miles and was overpriced. Glad you found one and it worked out for you!
 
There have been posts regarding this brake conversion, and the weak emergency brake.



This is what I did...



On the extended cab trucks on the driver's side where the cab meets the bed, there is a 15" cable with 1" by . 5" ends on it that connects the e-brake cable from cab, to the e-brakes on the rear axle.



I looked at that and rather than cutting the ends off the cable at the calipers, I decided to shorten this cable.



I went to the dealer thinking I could look through the parts catalog and get one from a different cab config... so I ordered one, and got the exact same one I had on my truck...



Ok, so I thought maybe someone could build me this shorter cable... after some internet searching I found Madison Power Systems. I told them what I wanted, and they said it would be easier to figure out if I sent them my cable. So I sent them the one I bought... $12 later I had a 9" cable.



After I hooked it up and pressed the pedal, it took up all the slack, and I still had too much play to make the caliper ebrake work right.



I sent them the one off my truck and asked them to make an 8" and 7" one. $25 later and I have two cables to try. The 8" one attached fairly easily, and did engage the caliper ebrake, but only moved the arms about 1/4"... not near enough to hold anything.



So I tried the 7" one... It was too short... I couldn't get enough slack to hook them together... So I put a large tiedown strap on the passenger side caliper ebrake, and frame, and cranked it down until the caliper ebrake spring on that side was fully compressed.



Now the 7" one is about 1/2" too short to fit... I took my dremel and removed just under 1/4" on each end mount of the cable and was able to just get it on.



Now the caliper ebrake arms are against the stop when the ebrake is released, and the spring is fully compressed when the ebrake is engaged... that will hold it.



Result is that a 7. 5" cable would probably do the trick... mine is actually a bit shorter than that, but much harder to install...



The attached picture shows the 8" (or is it the 9") cable next to a pair of pliers for size, and one of the two connectors that the cable ends hook to (so you can see what I am talking about).
 
Bought the kit a few months ago, but no time to install. I am hoping it will work out well, as I am fully "invested" in it now, including a bunch of spare parts...
 
I bought the kit several years ago and install works great! The only problem I have had is the emergency brake not holding tight. Any ideas here?
 
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