EGR Cooler O-ring

[TSielski]

Anyone have a source for the o-ring that fits on the cooler crossover tube (the tube that routs over the egr cooler) and plugs into the port on the rear of the egr cooler? Just did the egr cleaning, and after re-assembly have a coolant leak from that port on the rear of the egr cooler where the tube plugs in. I did remove the tube for the cleaning, and reinserted it during reassembly. The original o-ring looked ok, but it leaks. Regardless of how I try to position that tube, that joint leaks while the engine is running.
Appreciate anyone's input.

Thanks,

Tim

 

[tp0d]

I have fixed orings before by wrapping a few wraps of teflon tape in the groove for the oring, then put the oring on top of the tape. This gives the ring a little more force against the female socket.. Might be a temp fix, but I have fixed a number of 80-100psi joints with this method, and theyre still working, no leaks..

also-- you may have sliced the oring and cant see it. Roll the oring in your fingers, and look for tiny cracks. If not, pinch the oring around its entire circumference, and look again.. If no slices/cracks, try the teflon method..

good luck

-j

 

[TSielski]

Thats a good idea, thanks. Will give that a shot if my first two COA's don't pan out. Heading to a local dealer in the morning to see if this item is even available. If not, can try to source similar size of o-ring (viton would be best) from the old standby, McMaster-Carr.

tim

 

[mwilson]

Provide your VIN or ESN and I should be able to get you a Cummins part number for it if you want....

 

[sag2]

Two different O rings listed, not sure which one you need.
68049033AA Lower hose (the one with the pipe plug bleeder)
68049022AA Upper hose

 

[TSielski]

The circled oring is needed. The p/n__49022AA is item # 14 on the diagram. I've no idea if #14 and the circled oring are identical. #14 on the truck is green, and the failed item is black.

tim

 

[TSielski]

It just gets better. According to a local dealer, the circled oring only comes with the entire crossover tube. oring #14 is available and is over $18.00! Must be gold impregnated rubber. The crossover tube is over $100, so that isn't happening.

Mwilson, the ESN for the 6.7 in my truck is 58031170. If Cummins lists a p/n for that circled oring in the diagram on my previous post, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mwilson]

It just gets better. According to a local dealer, the circled oring only comes with the entire crossover tube. oring #14 is available and is over $18.00! Must be gold impregnated rubber. The crossover tube is over $100, so that isn't happening.

Mwilson, the ESN for the 6.7 in my truck is 58031170. If Cummins lists a p/n for that circled oring in the diagram on my previous post, it would be greatly appreciated.

On it. Will let you know shortly...

 

[mwilson]

Number 7, I assume????

Adding the parts listings....

 

[mwilson]

If it is #7 in the illustration above then.....

Available from Cummins, I even stock them here so they must use the same coolant plumbing on the rear gear train ISB's..

Part Number is 5266152. Should sell for $2.00 plus or minus a little......

 

[TSielski]

Thank you Sir! Yes #7 is the little bugger for which I'm looking, and it appears to be the same oring as #14 in the diagram I posted. Unfortunately I believe you are "up" in down-east Maine or vicinity, or I'd stop by. I'm in N. Va. Closest Cummins shop is a ways, close to Baltimore (Cummins Chesapeake). I'll see if available on line. Again, many thanks,

tim

 

[mwilson]

The tube would come with one of the 5266152 o-rings on it so he was right there. But as you can see the same o-ring is used on each end.

If you suspect the tube the Part Number is 5266678. They show one on hand at the Harrisburg PDC. Your cost for that would be around $50.00 if the o-ring repair fails...

 

[mwilson]

Added the parts listing to the diagram above for those following along......

 

[TSielski]

Just to close this out, found that Cummins opened a facility relatively close in Manassas. Been there for a few years. They had a bunch of the orings in stock. Picked up a few ($2 and change each vs the $18+ from mother Mopar) and replaced the oring on the leaking end. Did the trick. Many thanks to Mwilson. Reinforces the value of the TDR.

tim

 

[zetatre]

Since you've recently done it, what was you impression of the overall condition of the EGR? Was it really in need for a cleanup?
I'd also be interested to know how you use your truck.

 

[TSielski]

EGR wasn't in bad shape at all, however there is a caveat. I fully deleted the truck @~8100 miles, so there was only 8100 or so miles "on" the EGR system. I now have close to 50K. Returning the vehicle to stock. Have to pass visual here now, so as the past 4 years (deleted) were nice, I'll give up a bit of fuel economy and return to soot blackened oil, and the mandatory 6500 mile OCI's. Didn't use any of the high power settings the tuner offered as I didn't want to shred my transmission. Was just a nice feeling knowing I wasn't pumping exhaust back into the engine.
Truck is mainly used on the highway. Not much around town at all. Tow from time to time. Max I've towed is ~ 14,000#, moving a John Deere 1010 with a large Ford back hoe down the east coast.
The write-up that Geno's provides when you get their EGR cleaning package is good. I would recommend having a 15mm 3/8" drive crowfoot and a 10mm semi-deep, 3/8" drive 6pt socket (Snap on unfortunately). Makes removing and re-installing the EGR butterfly valve just past the EGR cooler MUCH easier. And do source a few of the orings, as I found out, they can leak upon reassembly.

tim

 

[zetatre]

EGR wasn't in bad shape at all, however there is a caveat. I fully deleted the truck @~8100 miles, so there was only 8100 or so miles "on" the EGR system. I now have close to 50K. Returning the vehicle to stock. Have to pass visual here now, so as the past 4 years (deleted) were nice, I'll give up a bit of fuel economy and return to soot blackened oil, and the mandatory 6500 mile OCI's. Didn't use any of the high power settings the tuner offered as I didn't want to shred my transmission. Was just a nice feeling knowing I wasn't pumping exhaust back into the engine.
Truck is mainly used on the highway. Not much around town at all. Tow from time to time. Max I've towed is ~ 14,000#, moving a John Deere 1010 with a large Ford back hoe down the east coast.
The write-up that Geno's provides when you get their EGR cleaning package is good. I would recommend having a 15mm 3/8" drive crowfoot and a 10mm semi-deep, 3/8" drive 6pt socket (Snap on unfortunately). Makes removing and re-installing the EGR butterfly valve just past the EGR cooler MUCH easier. And do source a few of the orings, as I found out, they can leak upon reassembly.

tim

Thanks for the feedback... Mine is not deleted so it won't compare.

I'm in one of those states (California) where FCA covers eats up the first cleanup. Or so it sounds from the manual. I'll find out next week when I drop it off.

When next oil change comes up I'll remove the rubber boot on the charge pipe and take a look in there with the borescope camera and give it a cleanup with a can of Liqui Moly Diesel Intake Cleaner.

When you say "6500 OCI" is that what you generally get from the EVIC or is just your interval?

 

[TSielski]

Never had the evic return a change engine oil message. The service manual, from memory lists a 6500 mile oil change interval, or 6 months. I don't think it was 7500. On my 95 ,12 valve, it had a 6000 mile OCI, or six months, as stipulated in the owners manual.