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EGR delete question

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6.7 Throttle Control Valve

Left me and family on HWY only 6K on it! FINAL UPDATE

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i bought a dpf delete kit for my truck and i was wondering if there is any problem with doing an egr delete with a cooler blockoff instead of doing the complete egr and cooler delete
 
No problems doing it that way. Some prefer to delete everything while others, it's just a pain in the butt to deal w/ the cooler delete. Especially if you need to put it back on for smog testing (if you have it in your area).



If I was going to do the deletes. That's the route I would go, EGR/DPF and keep the cooler in place. The only thing w/ leaving the cooler in place. Down the road there is still a chance you could have problems w/ it just like a stock truck. That's why some just delete it and don't have to worry about it.
 
Just an fyi. When I did my cooler delete, the back bolts were finger tight and starting to seep antifreeze.
 
thanks 2rowdy that will be useful info if i start to have a coolant leak on the engine ... at least ill know where to start looking
 
well i installed the dpf delete pipe with the pro flo electronics and the egr block out kit..... dpf swap went so so . . and egr removal went fair . . but i am getting 2 egr codes now and i was wondering is it just something im going to have to deal with being i dont have a programmer or is there something i can do to prevent them.



i am also getting the little lightning bolt light(throttle postion sensor i believe?) now and im wondering if that has anything to do with the dpf/egr removal



also i have a bullydog watch dog to check my codes and when i try to view the codes the monitor locks up ?????????????????#@$%!#@$%!:confused::mad:
 
I have read on other post that the only way to be code free is to have a Smarty or some other top of the line programmer. If you do not want to use a programmer you could install some SIMS to fool the ECM to thinking the emission equipment is still there. Search on this site or at this other site. To find how to do this. Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Anything else will leave issues with your truck and may cause the truck to go into the limp mode to protect the emissions equipment and tuck from damage.
 
Dpf/egr delete

First let me tell yall what i've done :

**Flo-Pro delete pipe(factory down pipe still in place, just removed dpf&big cat)

**Flo-Pro fooler electronics(counter reset, sims, and ebp plug)

**Egr cooler BLOCKOFF (not full removal just plug in the crossover tube)

**Egr delete(caps on intake horn)

**removed egr solenoid but left plugged in and tied back

**unplugged throttle control on intake horn



i just would like to know if there is something i messed or something i did that i shouldnt have..... because i am getting an intermittent miss , throttle postion sensor light (the lightning bolt sign) , and multiple egr codes ... ... should i have left the throttle control valve plugged in and removed the butterfly???



let me know what yall think ... . also im am sorry for asking the same basic questions but they just bother me
 
You're trying to fool a very complex computer that was designed and programmed by mechanical engineers and software engineers to sense any faults related to any of those parts.
 
First let me tell yall what i've done :

**Flo-Pro delete pipe(factory down pipe still in place, just removed dpf&big cat)

**Flo-Pro fooler electronics(counter reset, sims, and ebp plug)

**Egr cooler BLOCKOFF (not full removal just plug in the crossover tube)

**Egr delete(caps on intake horn)

**removed egr solenoid but left plugged in and tied back

**unplugged throttle control on intake horn



i just would like to know if there is something i messed or something i did that i shouldnt have..... because i am getting an intermittent miss , throttle postion sensor light (the lightning bolt sign) , and multiple egr codes ... ... should i have left the throttle control valve plugged in and removed the butterfly???



let me know what yall think ... . also im am sorry for asking the same basic questions but they just bother me



I will have to do some thinking on this. One it seems to me you have mixed and matched instructions the blocking off procedure. It seems some thing are for the code free and some are for the sims.

The first thing that comes to mind off hand is to plug the throttle control back in. I'll chime in some if I think of anything thing else.
 
the only thing about plugging the throttle control back in is when i do so the truck lopes real bad at idle from somewhere in the neighborhood of 800-1000+/-rpms... . but i really do appreciate the response and if you do come up with something let me know

... . plus the flo pro kit came with the ebp plug, sims, and regen counter reset module so i dont think thats the problem
 
Here is what I have done.

I have the FloPro fooler but it does nothing to fool the EGR, only the Regen of the DPF.

Fooling the EGR completely will take a programmer.

Since I have a 2010 and can't use a programmer I just unplugged the EGR valve so it stays shut all the time and left every thing else intact.

It will, and did throw a code but if you can live with the little light on and a single ding 10 sec after each startup you will be rewarded with a few miles per gallon increase.

I read about this on the cumminsforum.com and though I would give it a shot. So far so good. Truck runs exactly the same, just gets better mileage and a glowing check engine lite.

When I get back from a long drive I can put my hand on the egr crossover tube and it is not hot enough to cause discomfort which is proof it is not flowing. I have heard that it will leak a little exhaust without using block off plates but I don't think a little bit is worth worrying about.

When someone makes a programmer that works on 2010's I will do a complete egr delete.

Since you have a 2007. 5 I would read the cumminsforum.com first!! Some earlier truck with out the latest flash have experienced weird behavior after disconnecting the valve.
 
ok i took out the butterfly flap on the the throttle control valve ... no change in codes but i did want to ask if you guys know where i can get a gasket for between the intake horn and the in take itself(damaged during removal) and also was wondering if anyone knows the size of the 2 screws holding the butterfly flap in place because i need a new set of screws because i had to drill them out because the torx heads stripped out ... . the threads in the valve are fine
 
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