EGR Disk Conversion Problems

[jbolt]

I'm smack in the middle of doing a rear wheel disk conversion on a 1993 Dodge W250. The new rotors do not work with the old wheel studs. I can't get ahold of EGR for help. The rotors they sent me are PVR8512. I'm not sure what application they are for.



The OEM wheel studs have a shoulder diameter of 0. 680". The new rotors have stud holes of 0. 650". The OEM stud heads are 1. 020" diameter and the rotor stud hole pockets are 0. 930"



I'm wondering if they sent me the correct rotor or if there is a different wheel stud I can use. I tried the local NAPA but they do not stock anything to try. Anyone had this problem with the EGR system? I need my truck back on the road by tomorrow!



Jay

 

[Paychk]

The quote below is from the following thread on EGR conversion, could this be your problem? Maybe you're dealing with a 1 ton rear-end in your truck



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54995&highlight=EGR+conversion

Originally posted by PeterS

hi while taking brakes apart on my 250(1990) my mechanic and i noticed that the drums we ordered did not fit. upon disassembly i discovered i had 35spline axles and 1 ton drums. i am under the impression that i have a 1 ton rear in a 3/4 ton truck. i was told 3/4 trucks had 31 spline axles and these are def are not 3/4 ton drums. the truck was purchased as 3/4 ton. do u think its possible i have 1 ton 350 truck. i was told they originally made a few 350 single tire pickups. price for drums were outrageous. any suggestions? please not a dealer have ytou heard of this before? my email is -- email address removed -- just in case cause it took me a while to get on here. thanks pete



my truck is a 1990 w250 gear vendors banks intercooler bd exhaust brakes 4500 trans over 300,000 miles on it and only 2 sets of brakes original owner

 

[Case500D]

Rotors

Jbolt,



When I added the EGR rear discs to my '92 I kind of got agressive with the oversized BFH installing wheel studs and cracked a rotor. The rotor is identical to those found on a mid-80's to early 90's F-250 4x4. Hope this helps. BTW, you might try installing different wheel studs. Good luck.



Jeremy

 

[jbolt]

Hey Jeremy,



I tried to find a different wheel stud the the local parts shops in my area are useless unless you own a chevy or late model ricer. If I new what this rotors application was I might have a chance.



I'll try searching for a ford



Jay

 

[RDusch]

Jay,

I had the same problem when i did mine, i ended up drilling them out and using the original studs, 30k on them so far, no problems



Rick

 

[PPeters]

Rick is correct, you need to drill out to make fit. When I bought mine (from TSM) they told me up front that this needed to happen. I had them do it before they shipped the parts. Everything went together fine after that (with the exception of three sets of leaky calipers , but they made it right)



If I recall correctly, you may also need to *slightly* grind the diameter of the head on the studs to get them to seat properly.



Pat

 

[jbolt]

Hey Pat,



It really ticks me off that there is no mention of this from EGR, not even when I talked witht he salesman at EGR. This is definitely not a bolt on system. They need to make that clear up front and provide instructions for it. I've got issues with the E-brake too but I'll wait to comment on that until I have a chance to talk to them.



I ended up machining out the bolt head pockets and drilling the holes to fit the bolts.



Jay

 

[PPeters]

Jay:



I feel your pain. For the money charged you would think they would be a little clearer or at least provide the machining work done in advance.



What exactly is the trouble with your ebrake? Mounting point for the cable? I will try and take some pictures of my install, I ended up retaining the stock cables and took a piece of steel and machined (read drilled and filed ) an orifice that matched the location on the drum that the cable passed through, then installed the cable with the stock retainer clip in this bracket. Appears to work OK. I welded the bracket to the axle assembly, pictures would probably be clearer than my explanation.



My only conplaint with the disks is I still seem to have a soft pedal, bled the **** out of the system according to the bible, but rear brakes are soft. I think my ABS valve is FUBAR, so that's next.



Pat

 

[jbolt]

Pat-



Pictures would be great. I'll be curious to see how the return spring on your E-brake lever is. Looking at Ricks pictures my calipers are different. On his the return spring is compressed. On mine the spring is hooked on the outside of the caliper body and pulls on the lever. The E-brake mounting plates they sent me can't be bolted on because the caliper mount is in the way. The install picture they provide is for a second gen.



Either way I need to get this hooked up before I leave on our trip this Friday.



Jay

 

[jbolt]

Ok I finally got a call back from EGR. I was sent the wrong rotor by mistake. The rotors for the 1st gens are supposed to be modified to use the stock wheel studs.



The current conversion kits use a newer caliper w/Ebrake than before due to availability. The Ebrake hardware kit is "universal" and has to be modified to fit.



There are a number of items not covered well or covered at all in the installation instructions that should be to make the installation smoother.



Thanks for all the help



Jay