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Egr dpf delete

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2015 RAM 2500 6.7 serviceable grease points??

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I'm on the fence about doing dpf and egr deletes on my 2012. When I look around I see a lot of talk about the programmers that were capable being discontinued or the companies going out of business yet I still see the products for sale. Are they using remanufactured units or selling used ones or something?

Also, are their any cons to this modification? The vehicle is not in warranty, is at 200k miles on the factory equipment, and will no longer be living a life of towing or pulling. I got the vehicle for a project/driver and I'm not super interested in making huge power. Do they make a huge difference in the volume level? I like a nice sounding exhaust however I also like to be able to have comfortable conversation in the cab without having exhaust drone beating on my ear drums.
 
Avoid 5” exhaust,way to loud to enjoy a conversation,expect to build a trans and know that there is no such thing as a bullet proof 68rfe once the torque management has been removed
 
I'm not that worried about the transmission. If it goes it goes, I bought a high mileage farm truck, It's just part for the course. I had considered putting a manual in it if it does go but I don't know if the headache is worth the effort. As I haven't done substantial research on it, just saw it in passing.

Thehicle will not be tuned for any power increase, just for the egr and dpf delete. I figured I would hang around the factory size. I have seen a few 4" exhausts that also sounded really nice without being intrusive.

I'm more specifically interested if doing this is going to require other modifications I'm not aware of. Such as a sti needs massive fuel upgrades to properly support something as simple as a intake and exhaust. Just a turbo back pegs the fuel system at it's max.
 
Look at EFI Live for a programmer and for gauges use a Edge Insight CTS2 monitor. Also I would look at MBRP exhaust system, I have a 5" turbo back exhaust with muffler and this is some what quiet under 2,000 RPM's. I can carry on a normal conversation in 6th gear at 1,600 RPM's doing 65 MPH.
 
Look at EFI Live for a programmer and for gauges use a Edge Insight CTS2 monitor. Also I would look at MBRP exhaust system, I have a 5" turbo back exhaust with muffler and this is some what quiet under 2,000 RPM's. I can carry on a normal conversation in 6th gear at 1,600 RPM's doing 65 MPH.
What efi live programmer do I need? Is the software for tuning free from them I did a quick scan through their website but my PC is dead so I'm browsing through mobile but it looked like in the download section they have the pc software free.

 
Look at EFI Live for a programmer and for gauges use a Edge Insight CTS2 monitor. Also I would look at MBRP exhaust system, I have a 5" turbo back exhaust with muffler and this is some what quiet under 2,000 RPM's. I can carry on a normal conversation in 6th gear at 1,600 RPM's doing 65 MPH.



I want a ride in your truck,I’ve never been in a Cummins with 5” I would call quiet.......
 
This is my exact concern. I've heard people say straight pipes on Honda's and Subarus are not loud and sound good. Then when you are in their car you can't have a conversation without yelling and the exhaust note is the embodiment of teen angst.
 
I want a ride in your truck,I’ve never been in a Cummins with 5” I would call quiet.......

Any time you are east of the Mississippi River I will meet you for a ride. I not saying that the truck is totally quiet like a 4th gen but in my truck we can and do carry on a conversation at normal speaking voice. I listen to my radio on the same sound level (factory radio for an SLT) as we do in my wife's VW.
 
What efi live programmer do I need? Is the software for tuning free from them I did a quick scan through their website but my PC is dead so I'm browsing through mobile but it looked like in the download section they have the pc software free.

You will need a programmer that is compatible with your year and 6.7L Cummins. They do have can software available or you can go with a custom tune that will fit your needs better. Sign up for their newsletter and request information from their customer support group.

Both of my son's use the EFI Live tuner on their trucks. One is a 2006, Dodge 5.9L Cummins and the other is a 2013.5, 6.7L Cummins. I use a Smarty S67 which is no longer available.
 
I figure I would get a custom calibration done. When I got everything. Is there any reason this needs to be taken to a shop? I know mechanics need paid but I'd prefer to just keep money in my pocket for some other projects I have planned like the interior, blend door , a spray in bed liner and other body repairs.
 
I haven't made the decision yet but if I do I'm looking at the MM3 for my 14. It is essentially a smarty touch but with delete tunes. An all in one package.
 
That's an interesting option. It basically runs as an obd2 gauge array for the sensors and has the option to load ecu calibrations.

Does this option allow you to tune your vehicle yourself?
 
That's an interesting option. It basically runs as an obd2 gauge array for the sensors and has the option to load ecu calibrations.

Does this option allow you to tune your vehicle yourself?

If your referring the MM3, you can not write your own tunes. That's a non factor to me and from my understanding if you have a 68rfe it is a learning trans. Switching tunes frequently is claimed to be detrimental to them in the long run. Check out double r diesel, they have a lot of informative videos on the process.
 
Don't do it if you're in California or expect to visit our Great State of Insanity (aka Calif). All diesel P/U's must get a two year inspection for re-registration and the Delete is a automatic fail. Second,
if you're visiting and wind up a dealer there's a good chance you won't drive out without the "Delete"
being "undeleted". Needless to say VERY EXPENSIVE.
 
I deleted my 2011 a little over a year ago using an EFI Live tuned by Ryan from Hardway Performance. I used a block off plate for the EGR, and only deleted from the downpipe back. The tune has 5 settings. 1: no power gain, 2: 30 hp, 3: 80 hp, 4: 120 hp, 5: 200 hp. I stay on #1 while doing normal driving and #3 when towing or hauling. Although tempting, I have never used #4 or 5. Outside the truck has a nice rumble at the tailpipe, inside it is barely noticeable. At 65 mph the road noise is louder than the exhaust.
 
At least get a new head gasket, valve job, and head studs, first.
Is this a preventative thing at the miles or do these deletes cause issues with the head lifting? I just set the valve lash at .01 on the intake and .20 on the exhaust. Should I change that when I do this?
 
Like any modification to the OEM programming (not just deletes, tuners in general) peak cylinder pressures can be significantly altered for better or worse. Depends on the tune and the right foot.
 
Like any modification to the OEM programming (not just deletes, tuners in general) peak cylinder pressures can be significantly altered for better or worse. Depends on the tune and the right foot.
I was reading a little about it and saw the cylinder pressure concerns with single event tunes I wasn't aware it was across the board. I'm still learning my way around the systems and what they are changing with the tunes so I'm glad I got that advice.

The bolts on the valve cover were a pain in the butt, is it just as bad for the whole head?
 
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