EGR front disc conversion

[19Kgvw]

I've received my rotors and calipers from EGR. Before I start the disassembly of the Dana 60, I was reviewing the repair manual. I wanted to make sure that I have all of the new pieces ready for re-install to reduce a time gap from the removal. Basically, I don't want to forget how to put it back together-



Here's my question, on the 4-wheel drives, the cross section view of the spindle, rotor, etc isn't clear (to me) how the rotor is secured to the axle assembly.

Is the rotor bolted to the studs that are in the steering knuckle?

Do I have to press any studs into the rotors to secure the wheel assembly?



I know that it'll be clear once I remove everything, but if I can do some prep work before hand, it'll save down time for the truck and my memory. For some reason, I'm nervous about it because I don't think that I know everything.

Rich

 

[y-knot]

Hi, I went with EGR myself and they make and market a very good product, you will not be sorry. My truck is a 2nd gen but they both share the same front axle so I hope my info is helpful.

The rotor is held in place by the hub and the wheel studs. The hub fits over the splined axle shaft and is secured by a large castle nut and cotter pin. When I remover my rotors, I removed the castle nut and pulled the hub/rotor assembly off. It is a very tight fit over the splines, I made a puller that attached to two of the lugs, and had a large (1") bolt in the center that pushed on the end of the splined axle shaft. This worked every well and once the hub moves about 1"-1 1/4" it well fall off. When the hub/rotor is free, you then need to protect the back of the hub (the bearing race is exposed,keep dirt out and don't damage it). I placed the hug on a wood surface and then knocked out the wheel studs. Once all the studs are out, the hub and rotor can be separated. The new rotor goes on in the reverse style. The studs can be pressed in, or simply use the lug nut to tight down on the stud and pull itself Thur. When it is time to re-install the rotor/hub assembly, make sure any dirt in removed. Add wheel bearing grease as needed, and apply a little grease to the axle shaft. Aline the hub in the splines and work it on, by pushing at different points around the rotor. I do not like to hammer on new parts, it will go slow and is somewhat of a bear. once you have enough threads showing Thur on the axle shaft, spin on the nut and use it to press the hub in place. You will need to place something like a piece of angle iron Thur the wheel studs to keep them from turning, then tighten the castle nut till the hub is fully seated. Hope this helps, Good Luck.

 

[19Kgvw]

Originally posted by y-knot

When the hub/rotor is free, you then need to protect the back of the hub (the bearing race is exposed,keep dirt out and don't damage it). Once all the studs are out, the hub and rotor can be separated.

So... . the hub and rotor are held together by the wheel studs?? Are the wheel studs pressed into both the hub and rotor?

 

[cerberusiam]

Yes, the wheel studs go thru the hub then the rotor. The rotor is centered on the hub with a flange at the base of the hub and the wheels studs help align and hold the rotor in place. The wheel should have 2 shoulders on them. One for the hub and one for the rotor with the threads ticking out past that. You will either need to press the studs into the hub/rotor assembly or drive them in from the back side. If you have a good base and a heavy iron driver you can do this on the floor if a press is not available.

Drive out one of the wheel studs first and make sure it will fit the rotor correctly or, if you have new wheel studs with the conversion make sure those studs will fit the hole in the hub and the heads are small enough to bottom out. There are some issues with the rears depending on the hubs that are used but not sure if it is an issue on the front. Good luck.

 

[19Kgvw]

I'm feeling more comfortable with the work because of this info.

I plan to have a shop do the studs with a press, I'll either wack myself or ding the rotor with the hammer if I take the short cut.



Also, can I re-use the old studs? I was leaning towards pressing in new ones though.



It looks like I will have to do the shop work in the middle of the reinstall process, no way around it. I'll have to take my vitamins for my memory.

 

[sparks57]

I'm thinking about the egr 4 wheel disc conversion. Has anyone done that?

 

[19Kgvw]

Originally posted by CB_Parker

I'm thinking about the egr 4 wheel disc conversion. Has anyone done that?

Chris, I know many people have finished the conversion on all 4 corners. I understand that the general feel is improved braking performance with the only negative point from some people is if it was worth the cost. I know a search for EGR will bring up past threads.

My take on it is..... any cost for brakes is worth not having a white knuckle drive down a mountain pass.

 

[sparks57]

Exhaust brakes are really nice for that.

 

[dan brooks]

Unless you have a non-lockup converter auto... .

 

[y-knot]

19K,



Don't worry about the studs, they come right out and you don't need to wast your money paying a shop. The studs are serrated on the ends, this keeps them tight, and binds the hub and rotor together. When it comes time to knock the studs out, just lay the hub on something like a thick piece of wood. You can just set the wood on some concrete, or anything stable. Take a lug nut and thread it on the stud till the stud it even with the top on the nut. Now take a decent size hammer and knock that stud out. It goes pretty easy, and trust me it is nothing you can not do. Yes the studs can be re-used, they will work just fine.

 

[19Kgvw]

y-knot... ... . I appreciate your detailed descriptions. I will grab the hammer and take my time. I'll let ya all know how things are going.



If anyone else has some lessons learned on the conversion... . speak your piece for everyone to learn more.

 

[y-knot]

There you go 19K, the brakes are such an important part of the truck, that many people get nervous about servicing them. It is much better to be nervous and servicing them, then to be a no-it-all and let them go. I sent a few pics to show you I did it, and trust me if I can do it you will not have any trouble at all.



#ad




#ad

 

[19Kgvw]

different rotor thickness

Uggh just seperated my rotors from my hub and noticed a potential problem. My new rotors are 1 3/8" thick compared to 1/1/2" thick for the original ones. The brake pads the same thickness roughly.

I realize that the piston will make up the difference but is that okay?? The piston will start out being extended further throughout the life of the pads. What do you think?