Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) EGR thermocouple placement question and boost location

[Motorhead]

My Brother called me and asked me to help him install an EGT on his H. O. He is going to put it pre-turbo. Where is the thickest place on the manafold to tap into for the thermocouple. I know that the manafold is split in the middle but I want to find the place with the most "Meat" to tap into. I'm sure some of you PROUD owners might have some pics to show me so bring it on.



My Brother is buying a Westach dual guage.



Also, where on the intake do you tap into for boost guage?

Chris

 

[Bigsaint]

These are the directions that I used, right from TST...



#ad




Hope it helps !



forgot to add... I used the 3/4" plug behind the fuel filter mount for the boost gauge, works well.



Scott W.

 

[Motorhead]

Scott, Thanks for the diagram. Chris

 

[Doubleclutch]

Hey Chris- One thing that concerns me about the recommended placement of the pyro T/C is the tendency for cracking. Just saw a picture of a cracked 24v manifold where the crack looks like it started from the drill hole. I installed my T/C in the flange on the flat part of the exhaust manifold. Not per instructions, but my 12v manifold shrank, but didn't crack. Also note that the ATS manifold has flats for the T/C to be drilled and mounted. Smart people those guys!!! For what it's worth- Greg

 

[EMDDIESEL]

For your boost gauge source the plug behind the fuel filter is NOT recomended. It is too close to one of the cylinders and in alot of cases you will get gauge "Buzzing" and fluctuations. I know people have done it and it has worked fine, but you wont know till you try. Also, being so close to a Cylinder under acceleration the boost reading will be slower.

The best place to mount it is to remove (4 bolts) the intake horn and drill and tap it in the middle (Facing the firewall). No chance of gauge fluctuation and easy to get to. Just get a replacement gasket for the intake horn (About $3. 00). Should take all of 45 minutes to do.

 

[work2muchplay2little]

Originally posted by Doubleclutch

Hey Chris- One thing that concerns me about the recommended placement of the pyro T/C is the tendency for cracking. Just saw a picture of a cracked 24v manifold where the crack looks like it started from the drill hole. I installed my T/C in the flange on the flat part of the exhaust manifold. Not per instructions, but my 12v manifold shrank, but didn't crack. Also note that the ATS manifold has flats for the T/C to be drilled and mounted. Smart people those guys!!! For what it's worth- Greg

From what I've read and now experienced personally, the cracking usually starts nearest the engine and spreads up and down. Mine took almost a month to finally crack towards my EGT thermocouple and another week to crack beyond it. FYI, Cummins has not developed an improved manifold to address this issue, so the ATS is thee solution at the moment.

 

[JR2]

I will add a pic to go along with the diagram. I wish my manifold would crack, then I could buy an ATS.



#ad
<br>

 

[Motorhead]

All recomendations are GREATLY appreciated. I'll print out all of your ideas and let my Brother decide where He wants the guages hooked into. Chris

 

[Bigsaint]

EMD makes a good point in regards to the boost gauge source. Mine works fine there, while others have reported a buzzing in the gauge and bouncing readings. If you decide to try the 3/4" plug as a source, take the truck for a short ride to warm the block. I did this and mine came out almost too easy. Most important... take your time with the pyro install. Tap slowly and don't run the tap all the way in. Tap, clean and check, then continue until it's just right.



Scott W.

 

[RJOL]

Installed my Westach dual gauge almost two years ago. Put the T/C just as pictured. Don't know if anyone else mentioned this, but make sure you use the correct drill bits for the size of the probe. They come in two sizes (1/4" & 1/8").



Put the boost hose on the plug behind the fuel filter, and it is steady as a rock. Plug came out with no problem, but it was a little tight to get the tapped plug back in. Couldn't get a socket around the 3/4" plug (engine interference) so I tighten it turning the inner hose plug. Have fun...