i have a comp on my 01(stock turbo)auto. i know the turbo is extra small but i cant even turn the comp on setting 1 with out hitting into the mid 1400. when i mash the go fast, it will stay about 11 to 12 through first and then start slowly rising untill it steadys out at 1350 to 1400(setting 1). if i put the comp on 5 i can easily hit 1600 within 3 sec. of flooring the pedal. i am keeping the egt lower than 1300 now by just running on 1 when towing my 7000 pd. boat or racing around. i know someone will ask so i will say now that the thermo. is mounted just before the turbo in the manifold. as you can see below i have straight 5" ex. so i dont think that is the problem. i have a huge k&n with no air box so that cant be it. is it the turbo? any help would be great.
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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) egt 1600!!! w/comp
- Thread starter dragrcr1005
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drag racer,
Seems like you are not getting enough air. The intercooler hoses are known to develop leaks. The rubber hose between the turbo outlet and the intercooler inlet downpipe rubs on the AC high pressure switch. More problematic is the intercooler outlet hose on the drivers side rubbing on the inner fender sheet metal.
You may also have boost leaks in the intake manifold and heater grid. Have you checked to see if all bolts are tight?
Recommend you perform a boost leak test. I fashioned a test plug out of 1/8 inch particle board and an old tire valve stem. Cut the particle board into a circle that fits tight into the end of the rubber hose that connects to the airbox/filter. Then drill a hole for the valve stem. Insert into air inlet hose, and fill the intercooler with compressed air (limit the pressure to 30 psi to prevent blowing out any gaskets. ) Any leaks will be easily heard.
Seems like you are not getting enough air. The intercooler hoses are known to develop leaks. The rubber hose between the turbo outlet and the intercooler inlet downpipe rubs on the AC high pressure switch. More problematic is the intercooler outlet hose on the drivers side rubbing on the inner fender sheet metal.
You may also have boost leaks in the intake manifold and heater grid. Have you checked to see if all bolts are tight?
Recommend you perform a boost leak test. I fashioned a test plug out of 1/8 inch particle board and an old tire valve stem. Cut the particle board into a circle that fits tight into the end of the rubber hose that connects to the airbox/filter. Then drill a hole for the valve stem. Insert into air inlet hose, and fill the intercooler with compressed air (limit the pressure to 30 psi to prevent blowing out any gaskets. ) Any leaks will be easily heard.
I have the same thing just with a TST comp box. Im seeing 28 psi and have still pegged out the tst at 1750* once or twice but only under hard racing, usually stayes around 14 or 15 on hard plays though. Thats with it on level 9. Usually pretty easy to keep under control though. Im also wandering what boost your at.
HMMmmm...
With my Comp, and other mods listed in my sig, my highest EGT so far, towing up an 8% grade for a short distance at full throttle as a test, was 900 degrees on 3x3. Haven't tried any higher Comp settings yet, or needed to
Boost was about 36 PSI at the time...
The addition of the BHAF, injectors and 4 inch exhaust has dropped my EGT a consistent 200+ degrees across the board, and delivers an added 4+ PSI boost under load compared to prior to the upgrade...
With my Comp, and other mods listed in my sig, my highest EGT so far, towing up an 8% grade for a short distance at full throttle as a test, was 900 degrees on 3x3. Haven't tried any higher Comp settings yet, or needed to
Boost was about 36 PSI at the time...
The addition of the BHAF, injectors and 4 inch exhaust has dropped my EGT a consistent 200+ degrees across the board, and delivers an added 4+ PSI boost under load compared to prior to the upgrade...
DieselFreak 2 said:
They pass alot of dust thus wash the compressor wheel, they coat the intercooler, air passages and manifold with oil resulting in fouled MAP and IAT sensors and potential loss of airflow through the intercooler, and if you are in warranty and DC sees it, the dealer may void your warranty because of the above issues.
"They pass alot of dust thus wash the compressor wheel, they coat the intercooler, air passages and manifold with oil resulting in fouled MAP and IAT sensors and potential loss of airflow through the intercooler"
(SIGH!)
FACT is *ANY* filter CAN do all those nasty evil things if installed and maintained poorly - and the greatest offender as far as dirt leakage is not the filter necessarily, but the poor filter housing - which can seriously impede the ability of ANY filter to seal properly! Below is a picture of the low-mileage OEM paper filter off my '02 truck immediately prior to switching to a K&N:
#ad
That tan/brownish stuff visible at the front edge is D-I-R-T that was leaking past the filter seal, and on into my engine.
I carefully swabbed a section of the rubber outlet tube after swapping in the K&N, and put the same miles on it the OEM had, and using the SAME paper tissue I had carefully saved for the occasion, swabbed the same point in that tube. Here's what I got:
#ad
The swatch on the right was the OEM filter - the other the K&N - which would YOU rather see used on YOUR engine?
NOW, I fully realize NONE of this will change the minds of the K&N haters - they will still moan and find reasons to disregard my "test" as "unscientific" or otherwise flawed - but I'd still be using that same K&N if power upgrades hadn't created a need for even better airflow than the K*N provided...
OH, and oil analysis consistently place my silicone #'s a about 3 ppm (the SAME as virgin Delo 400 right outta the jug!) within a 5000-7000 mile oil change interval - can anyone using an OEM or other aftermarket air filter do consistently better?
Strange so many whine about the K&N's, but the SAME dirty turbo blades with OTHER filters don't even raise an eyebrow... :-laf :-laf
(SIGH!)
FACT is *ANY* filter CAN do all those nasty evil things if installed and maintained poorly - and the greatest offender as far as dirt leakage is not the filter necessarily, but the poor filter housing - which can seriously impede the ability of ANY filter to seal properly! Below is a picture of the low-mileage OEM paper filter off my '02 truck immediately prior to switching to a K&N:
That tan/brownish stuff visible at the front edge is D-I-R-T that was leaking past the filter seal, and on into my engine.
I carefully swabbed a section of the rubber outlet tube after swapping in the K&N, and put the same miles on it the OEM had, and using the SAME paper tissue I had carefully saved for the occasion, swabbed the same point in that tube. Here's what I got:
The swatch on the right was the OEM filter - the other the K&N - which would YOU rather see used on YOUR engine?
NOW, I fully realize NONE of this will change the minds of the K&N haters - they will still moan and find reasons to disregard my "test" as "unscientific" or otherwise flawed - but I'd still be using that same K&N if power upgrades hadn't created a need for even better airflow than the K*N provided...
OH, and oil analysis consistently place my silicone #'s a about 3 ppm (the SAME as virgin Delo 400 right outta the jug!) within a 5000-7000 mile oil change interval - can anyone using an OEM or other aftermarket air filter do consistently better?
Strange so many whine about the K&N's, but the SAME dirty turbo blades with OTHER filters don't even raise an eyebrow... :-laf :-laf
Last edited by a moderator:
Gary - K7GLD said:(SIGH!)
The swatch on the right was the OEM filter - the other the K&N - which would YOU rather see used on YOUR engine?
(SIGH!)
Not a K&N hater - never had one. Just answering Dieselfreak's question for Potts.
If I read your test synopsis, you are saying that a K&N filter is better than a leaking stock airbox. Guess I'd have to agree there.
To answer your question - the one I have ON my engine - my BHAF.
Hope you don't have your K&N in the stock airbox though.
i am seeing about 32 to 34 pounds of boost. the boost gauge fitting is in the elbow so i dont think i have a leak because i am seeing good boost. i put a j-hook on the turbo and it seemed to not get hot as fast. i just want to make it clear, i am only seeing 1600 when completely floored such as when drag racing. i have done some hunting on other threads and have learned that many people on the site have seen 1600+ when dragracing and pullin. i think that i need to step up on the turbo and i will be fine. any suggestions???? i am not trying to spend a ton of money. i have seen the PDR bolt ons for $650. any good????
I am having the opposit problem, With my edge comp on 3x3 and 100 hp injectors I have never been able to get it over 1200* with my stock turbo. I am also getting 37 to 38 lbs of boost and 38 lbs of boost is just a slit touch then ot comes down to 36 oe so. I am wondering if my gauge is not working right.
i also run a comp box and 5x5 i can only hit 1300 at WOT and that takes a while and i am getting 35-40 psi of boost with a stock HY J hooked
maybe i have a problem??
maybe i have a problem??
dragrcr1005-
Looking at your sig I see you have a superchips programer, is that program sill in the ECM or did you flash it back to stock before putting the comp on?? If you still have the nososuperchip program installed, remove it. The timing it adds along with the timing from the comp will make for some high EGT's. Heck I remember reading that just the superchips program got high EGT's.
Another thought, have you checked your thermocouple and gauge to see if its accurate? That goes for all of you who see low egt's with a comp box. I suspect that temps are getting higher than you think, I know when I tested a bunch of thermocouples for a company I found the fatter the Tc the slower it reacts and unless you hold the high temps for 30-60 seconds you will never see them.
More to ponder, the HY-9 turbo is out of its map past 26psi. After that you are just heating up hot air. I used to see 1400-1500 with a comp and 275 injectors (with 45 psi). Switching to an PDR HX35 helped a bit, switching to an HX40 led me to get a drag comp and I still see 1500 drag racing with stage 3's and the comp.
As for the air filter debate, I have a KNRE880 (cone filter) that I keep in my garage. Its silicon levels where way more than my BHAF and I don't want sand in my motor. I do have a K&N stock replacment on my Excursion, Silicone was 12 ppm at the last sample.
Looking at your sig I see you have a superchips programer, is that program sill in the ECM or did you flash it back to stock before putting the comp on?? If you still have the nososuperchip program installed, remove it. The timing it adds along with the timing from the comp will make for some high EGT's. Heck I remember reading that just the superchips program got high EGT's.
Another thought, have you checked your thermocouple and gauge to see if its accurate? That goes for all of you who see low egt's with a comp box. I suspect that temps are getting higher than you think, I know when I tested a bunch of thermocouples for a company I found the fatter the Tc the slower it reacts and unless you hold the high temps for 30-60 seconds you will never see them.
More to ponder, the HY-9 turbo is out of its map past 26psi. After that you are just heating up hot air. I used to see 1400-1500 with a comp and 275 injectors (with 45 psi). Switching to an PDR HX35 helped a bit, switching to an HX40 led me to get a drag comp and I still see 1500 drag racing with stage 3's and the comp.
As for the air filter debate, I have a KNRE880 (cone filter) that I keep in my garage. Its silicon levels where way more than my BHAF and I don't want sand in my motor. I do have a K&N stock replacment on my Excursion, Silicone was 12 ppm at the last sample.
I am going to steal your Bill :-laf :-laf
i have not ever seen anything above 35 even with the hook. i dont really run it hard though so i cant say for sure. i will have to go hammer on it again after the fuel pressure gauge gos in and see what i get.
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