EGT gauge

[FF1381]

I am getting ready to install the EGT gauge and i have a couple of questions



1. is it better to go pre turbo or post turbo



2. if i go preturbo and tap the manifold how hard is this to do... i realize the diffculty tapping the manifold and trying to keep it clean... but how hard is it to remove the turbo



3. if i remove the turbo is there a gasket there or something i need to replace... .



thanks for all the help guys



jason

 

[Mad Max]

I did mine Pre Turbo. TST has great instructions on their page.



http://www.tstproducts.com/gauge_install.html



I DID NOT REMOVE MY TRUSTY HX35 so I couldn't tell you if there's a gasket or not. I DID drill and DID tap slow, kept BOTH my drill bit and my tap loaded with VASOLINE. Afterwards I chased the hole for metal shavings with a small telscopic magnet.



It is worth noting that the exhaust side is not as tollerance tight as the inlet side, I think either St. Laurent or Evan Beck has had a thermocouple tip or two go passed the exhaust impeller w/o incident, and that's bigger than the shavings you'll get.



Of everything I've done for my rig, installing my DG111 boost/egt gauge was the most time consuming, things like the harness being assembled and have to use the right tool to disassemble the harness and pull all those wires through the rubber boot in the firewall one at a time was a real chore. But my end results looks good and works great.



Good Luck



Max

 

[FF1381]

thanks max i am going to try this my self so this ought to be really interesting

 

[Idaho CTD]

FF1381,

If it were me I would loosen the 4 bolts holding the turbo and let it back off the manifold. This way you can put some tape over the exhaust housing holes of the turbo and use a shop vac to clean the metal shavings out of the manifold. I just did this to my dads truck and I used the original turbo gasket again. It hasn't leaked yet.



Nathan

 

[me4osu]

Make sure you have a good punchmark before you drill. I halfa--ed mine and the bit started to walk. Scared the crap out of me, so I leaned on it and popped through the wall before I could stop halfway to grease the bit.



One very useful tool I found was a magnet on a flexible wire I bought from Sears Hardware. I could snake that thing all the way back to the #6 runner and down to the bottom of the turbine scroll. Since I didn't get a chance to grease the bit, I fished for 30 minutes until I stopped getting any chips. Haven't had a single problem.

 

[JohnMcIntyre]

Pre and post?

Might be worth considering BOTH!! Pre and Post but that depends upon how many pods you have (or are thinking of having) on the A-Pillar.

 

[Big_Daddy_T]

i pulled the turbo but think now that ive had it off i have the experience and the bolts are antiseized. so when i go to put a b1 or the like on it will be quite easy.

 

[JR2]

I did mine pre-turbo with out removing the turbo and I did not even fish around with a magnet. I used lots of axle greese on the trap and drill bit and I also left my tap/drill bit stuck to a big magnet for a couple of days. This magnetized them enought to grab quite a bit of super small shavings.



I guess the consensus is that pre turbo is better if you are going to bomb and post turbo it you are not (just because its easier). I think no matter what I would go pre turbo, it gives you the real # you need to know and lets you know earlier than post that you have exeeded the limits.

 

[fmj]

FF, something else you might try. I worked on spacecraft and every once in a while we had to drill after assembly and cleanroom. We didn't want to drill, but it was necessary. We would take a vacume and hold the hose over the area while drilling to suck up the chips. We couldn't use oil so this was a way to control metal chips. You could use grease on bit and tap and have someone hold a shop vac hose close to the hole. It could add a little insurance.