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Egt help

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Downshift is chattering my teeth

A little more turbo "on the cheap"?

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More UDC info would be helpful,but I need to know what UDC stands for.If I went to bigger turbo what should I look at that I could add another in the future to have compounds.I can see I have a lot to learn on the tuning end,thanks for all the info,still digesting.
 
UDC is user defined catcher, or custom tuning from Smarty. It lets the tuner set the fuel, timing, boost(04.5-07), and rail pressure (with an S06) to suit the end users needs.

There are a couple turbo options. How often do you tow?

A good towing turbo is one that lights easily and keeps you cool once spooled. For a single turbo you will be limited to 375-450 rwhp depending on the turbo and normal elevation.. If you want more than that for regular towing twins is the way to go, or if you spend a lot of time above 5-6K feet.
 
do these comments apply to 03 HO's(manual trans) too?

Some do and some don't. An 03-04 won't run, or handle, as high of EGT's on stock tuning.

The 1250° continuous and 1300° momentary is a good number for towing.

The 03-04's use a smaller turbo, but start with slightly less power so the stock turbo will hold about as much power over stock as an 04.5-07.
 
I have an Edge CS set on "tow" running a 3000lb slide in camper and a 14' 5000lb trailer through the west mountains and saw 1300*+ on the stock tune and used that as a guide to limit the EGT's on the "tow" tune. Not really impressed .A lot of gear rowing. So I need to upgrade. I need to get it quieter ,more powerful, more reliable and trouble/worry free. Or get another truck. But if I can get something together on this one, that will work great, I will spend the money.





Some do and some don't. An 03-04 won't run, or handle, as high of EGT's on stock tuning.

The 1250° continuous and 1300° momentary is a good number for towing.

The 03-04's use a smaller turbo, but start with slightly less power so the stock turbo will hold about as much power over stock as an 04.5-07.
 
I have an Edge CS set on "tow" running a 3000lb slide in camper and a 14' 5000lb trailer through the west mountains and saw 1300*+ on the stock tune and used that as a guide to limit the EGT's on the "tow" tune. Not really impressed .A lot of gear rowing. So I need to upgrade. I need to get it quieter ,more powerful, more reliable and trouble/worry free. Or get another truck. But if I can get something together on this one, that will work great, I will spend the money.

The problem with going off stock EGTs on a tuned motor is listed above, stock timing (even the 03-04, just not as bad) is retarded for emissions..higher EGTs and lower cylinder temps.

Did you install a boost elbow?

Edge is known to run hot and be less than favorable on HPCRs.
 
no tune just stock for a baseline, and it showed 1300* +
so what can I do on my 88000 mile Cummins?

But if I can get something together on this one, that will work great, I will spend the money.

The problem with going off stock EGTs on a tuned motor is listed above, stock timing (even the 03-04, just not as bad) is retarded for emissions..higher EGTs and lower cylinder temps.

Did you install a boost elbow?

Edge is known to run hot and be less than favorable on HPCRs.
 
Will I need to change from my Smarty Jr. to get the UDC,I think customizing the tune would help.I tow occasionally,4 horses,and to my cabin on Red Mt. Pass,CO-3- 10,000 ft. + passes.Max weight I would probably see 14,000 lbs.
 
no tune just stock for a baseline, and it showed 1300* +
so what can I do on my 88000 mile Cummins?

But if I can get something together on this one, that will work great, I will spend the money.

My point is that stock EGTs of 1300° are safe, but tuned those temps might not be.

What about a boost elbow? Are you seeing 22 psi or more?

Will I need to change from my Smarty Jr. to get the UDC,I think customizing the tune would help.I tow occasionally,4 horses,and to my cabin on Red Mt. Pass,CO-3- 10,000 ft. + passes.Max weight I would probably see 14,000 lbs.

Yes it can, I ran UDC on my SJR for about a year before getting a S06 to have full rail pressure control.

I have written smarty Jr UDC tunes for my dad and another friend, both tow quite often.
 
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Yes it can, I ran UDC on my SJR for about a year before getting a S06 to have full rail pressure control.

I have written smarty Jr UDC tunes for my dad and another friend, both tow quite often.[/QUOTE]

Is this something you can do and then I download it or can I do it myself.Thanks
 
What about a boost elbow? Are you seeing 22 psi or more?

don't know what a boost elbow is, so I guess I don't have one:( and I did see 22-23lbs max boost sometimes.
 
Is this something you can do and then I download it or can I do it myself.Thanks

Either, the end user can do it (with enough tuning knowledge), and I also sell tunes.

What about a boost elbow? Are you seeing 22 psi or more?

don't know what a boost elbow is, so I guess I don't have one:( and I did see 22-23lbs max boost sometimes.

I would look into a boost elbow, you are adding fuel but not air so it will run hot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-CUMMI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item485820b4bf&vxp=mtr

Adjust it so at WOT you see about 30 psi of boost, your EGT's will drop.
 
ordered the elbow.

I would look into a boost elbow, you are adding fuel but not air so it will run hot.

that's counter intuitive , you would think the extra fuel would cool , but that's my gasoline SI engine background talking:eek:
 
the vender mentioned 35psi max is the setting as shipped , should I reduce it down to the 30psi mentioned here?
 
ordered the elbow.

I would look into a boost elbow, you are adding fuel but not air so it will run hot.

that's counter intuitive , you would think the extra fuel would cool , but that's my gasoline SI engine background talking:eek:

Diesel are lean burn systems. Adding Air cools them. Adding fuel makes them run hotter.
 
I just towed with my '05 3500 drw 6sp. I wasn't that impressed. My '03 with similar mods would out pull it and get better milage. Before I had 50hp injectors in my '03 I ran it on sw3 at POD90. The odd time I'd hit 1250 and have to back out of it. This 05 doesn't have the power but still gets warm. The engine fan also runs a lot. I'm hoping to put 50 HP injectors in this fall and do a valve set. If I needed to pass someone with my 03 it was hammer down and hold on. This 05 is floor it and pray it'll get by. No fluidampr, centramatics, or FASS on 05. I'll bury my 35 psi boost gauge on my 03 and my 05 will see 36 psi on sw2. Any ideas? AH I might have to get your number and talk about a custom tune or other mods. My 05's coolant warms up way faster too. I'm sure ill get it figured out some day. Thanks
 
the vender mentioned 35psi max is the setting as shipped , should I reduce it down to the 30psi mentioned here?

I would start at 30 and see how it goes, the turbine starts to get inefficient above 30.

I just towed with my '05 3500 drw 6sp. I wasn't that impressed. My '03 with similar mods would out pull it and get better milage. Before I had 50hp injectors in my '03 I ran it on sw3 at POD90. The odd time I'd hit 1250 and have to back out of it. This 05 doesn't have the power but still gets warm. The engine fan also runs a lot. I'm hoping to put 50 HP injectors in this fall and do a valve set. If I needed to pass someone with my 03 it was hammer down and hold on. This 05 is floor it and pray it'll get by. No fluidampr, centramatics, or FASS on 05. I'll bury my 35 psi boost gauge on my 03 and my 05 will see 36 psi on sw2. Any ideas? AH I might have to get your number and talk about a custom tune or other mods. My 05's coolant warms up way faster too. I'm sure ill get it figured out some day. Thanks

What kind of temps are you seeing?

What are the full settings on the SJR.
 
ordered the elbow.

I would look into a boost elbow, you are adding fuel but not air so it will run hot.

that's counter intuitive , you would think the extra fuel would cool , but that's my gasoline SI engine background talking:eek:

For rich burn engines (such as most gasoline engines that run on the rich side of the stoichiometric point), your assumption is correct. For lean burn engines (such as diesels) that run on the lean side of the stoichiometric point, the inverse is correct - adding air drops combustion temperatures; adding fuel increases them. To visualize this in both cases, moving closer to the stoichiometric point increases combustion temperatures while moving away from the stoichiometric point decreases them.

Rusty
 
On my 05 I have it on SW2, PoD 99, timing default, and torque set to 4 to reduce smoke. 05 will see 1250 on the pyro. It hits that and I back off the throttle. My A/C condenser is dinged up in the bumper opening and a few other spots. I blew out the rads when I bought the truck really well. I might have to get a new condenser? The clutch the previous owner put in the truck is not near as nice as my SB Con-O.

My 03 I would run on Sw3 and the same settings but POD of 90 before I put in injectors. It spools quicker with the injectors. It can roll coal if I don't be careful now. I think the few airflow improvements I've made help the trucks get moving just as much as a more aggressive torque setting. I don't like being hard on tires or blowing black smoke.
 
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