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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) egt problem

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Comp and VP44 Pump wire?

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I have a 95 with stage 2 DD injectors,191 delivery valves,4"exhaust from the turbo back,stock hx35 with a 16cm housing,afe aircleaner,tst #6 plate in the middle and 3k govener springs,dtt transmission with 89% converter. Now when I get on it hard without even a load behind it 1st,2nd is not bad but when it goes into drive and starts to go above 2500 it will barry the guage past the last e in prometer on the autometer gauge with no problem at all. The gauge is pre turbo. I even moved the plate all the way back and still would go above 1600 but not as fast. What is the next step to make the egt go down. I was thinking of a hx40/16.

Later

Choppy
 
IMHO

The PDR HX40/16 may have some lag with your setup. If you dont mind the lag that would be the choice. Or you may try a PDR HX35, that may do the trick!







J. R.
 
Choppy, the hx40/16 will help but I'll bet you don't like the lag. IMO your mods have taken you to the edge of the engine's design parameters, might be time for a lighter right shoe.
 
Just trying to stir the pot a little. Get a little good discussion going!



So about how much HP do you think this combo runs? A 230/605 plate with lots of extra goodies. Maybe 300 - 325. I have a PDR HX35 in addition to what choppy has mentioned, otherwise similar/equivelant mods for a 97. I need to get into OD before the gauge gets into the redzone. But gets there easily enough.



I read where 24V guys claim to run 350+ HP and not even come close to hitting the redzone. What gives, do 24V really run that much cooler with regards to EGT's and a given HP?



Are 12V manuals any better that 12V automatics, with regards to EGTs for a given HP? Seems like there are those running in the 400-450 range that talk like EGT's are no problem. Does an HX40 really make up that much difference?



Yeah, I know there are those with Ported Heads, Cams and a few goodies like that. But it seems that the vast majority of us dont have these. We have a 4" exhaust, cat chased off, air filter setup, and some form of turbo/housing for air flow improvements. -- Yet their seems to be a large range in HP and what EGT levels are "no problem". So how is a new guy supposed to gauge this and know what is what??
 
Choppy, there is nothing wrong with the advice above. I just have this nagging question ( that I believe I already know the answer too ), but would like to see some discussion from people in the various HP range and what they see under various conditions. Maybe come up with a standard.



Like starting from a dead stop, at what speed does the gauge reach 1300*?



300 = 80mph with air these flow improvements

350 = 60mph with air these flow improvements

400 = 40mph with air these flow improvements



So is this a waste of time or what?
 
Thanks for all that put there info in.

I have been thinking of putting the stock govener springs back in to see if that will help control the egt's. When I had just the 230/605 plateslide all the way forward and the 16cm housing,stock transmission,3"down pipe to the cat that had lost its guts. I had put 3k springs in. The truck had more pulling power with the stock govenor springs than the 3k ones. After I had put the 3k springs in it had lost power above 2200 rpms and would not even go up to 2600 with 10,000 going up a hill. But with the stock springs in it would go up the govenor and lay there. So I want to try the stock springs to see if they make more power up to 2600 and to see if will help with egt's. What do you guys think.

Later

Choppy
 
Choppy,



I would bet the addition of the HX40 on the compressor side would help your EGT issue. True, you may see a little more lag, but the supply of air the 40 would provide would help the heat problem. An ATS 3pc manifold might help a little more too, but they're a lot of $ for a little gain. You've got the right air filter, but perhaps some method of getting some outside air to it would help.



Just my opinion from reading responses from the gurus here for 2 years.



-Jay
 
First you should have more pulling power with the 3k springs, than with the stock springs. It sounds like maybe you need to make sure your governor lever adjustment is correct. Double check all this and make sure your 3k kit is installed, adjusted and working correctly first. Something sounds wrong to me.



http://www.piersdiesel.com/LeverAdj.htm



Next, I believe the stock springs will help with EGT's as the governor will defuel at the higher RPM's, where the gov kit will not defuel and keep pouring on the coals.



However once you get that kit fixed up and running right, I doubt you will want to take it out. After buying a plate, a governor kit is the best $$ you can spend on a 12V. So you'll still be shopping for a turbo.
 
SlyBones,

Good point, I don't own a dyno to do my testing on, so I like to use the same method you suggested. Find a long stretch of road and hammer it through the gears with the various mods and compare what speed you will hit a certain temp.

My freind and I have almost identical trucks with identical mods, and he just installed the head that I spent 20 hours porting and polishing for him.

Here's what we found,

Baseline: 97 5sp. HX35 16, 3k gov. kit, 370's, #10 plate

Full throttle from a stand still= 60-65mph @ 1500 degrees pre turbo.

Same test with 5" exhaust installed on same stretch of road on same day= 70-75mph before hitting 1500 degrees.

Two weeks later we put on a turbo mount exhaust brake and lost almost 10 mph before pegging the pyro at 1500.

Now with the exhaust brake still on and 5" exhaust and the ported head on, he does not hit 1500 until 90+ mph. I hoped the ported head would make a big difference, but these results were better than I expected.

Garry.
 
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