Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Egt To High

[propuller]

Heres what is going on . I put a plate in my dads 97 3500 ctd it was a tst 230 horse & 605 torque im not sure what # that is. I installed it with the template that was sent with the kit now the problem is the egt will go to 1300 pretty easily. I also put the boost elbow on & its getting 35 psi of boost. The truck runs pretty good but its not a monster by no means. My question is are these temps normal? the timing is stock the injectors are stock & the turbo is stock except for the elbow. The truck does have a 4 inch exhaust. He pulls a 35 ft fifth wheel & needs to lower his temps & a little more power would be nice as well. Should he slide the plate back,get a bigger turbo,advance the timing?What would a gsk do? Ya have to forgive me guys i dont know squat about the 12 valves but im learnin. Any help would be greatly appreciated.



Kurt

 

[Smokin Dodge]

Yes to 2 of your questions sliding the plate back a little at a time untill you are satisfied with the EGTs and get the timing set to at least 16 degrees. Those temps are ok as long as they are not held over 1250 or 1300 any longer than 30 secs.

 

[WadePatton]

Originally posted by propuller

What would a gsk do?

Kurt

I'm pretty green on 12v's as well, but THE GSK IS THE FIRST THING I RECOMMEND. It'll make that sucker rev like a 24v. It helps throughout the RPM band. You'll be blown away by this $125 BOMB.



GSK won't change your EGT much--I don't think. Get rid of the stock airbox if you have it on there. Just like SD said: Sliding the plate back itty bits at a time should take care of it, as well as bumping up the timing.



Bigger turbo exhaust housing may be worth looking into.

 

[propuller]

Thanks for the replies. The air box is gutted & has a k&n elament. I need to play with the star wheel & the plate but i hate to loose any power. Tell me more about the 3gsk springs. What would the 14 or 16 cm housing do for egts. By the way this truck has a DTT trans with a tight converter. I want as much towable power that i can get without going to a differant turbo. Will the timing make much of a differance on egts?



Thanks Kurt

 

[WadePatton]

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/timing.htm



According to the info there, advanced timing decreases EGT, how much? I don't know. I advanced mine when I did the KDP --way before I installed the pyrometer.



The star wheel ain't going to affect EGT's. It only adjusts WHEN the fuel comes in, not how much.



The plate position will determine how much.



The 14 wastegated housing gives you some flexibility, but costs more. The 16 without wastegate is cheaper, but might not spool as good.



That's part of the fun of the 12v, so many things to twiddle with, and they all affect each other.



Don't want to lose power? How about the power you lose when aluminum chunks(formerly known as pistons) start coming out the tailpipe?

 

[propuller]

Yeah chunks of pistons goin through the turbo are hard on it as well . The problem is dad rode in my truckOo. see sig below for my truck



Kurt.

 

[propuller]

Oh my sig is on my 1st post

 

[GAmes]

When my timing was advanced to 15. 7 the egts went down about 200 degrees, WOT. #11 plate slid full fwd. When I dynoed I did the first one with an afe filter, the second with a k&N in the stock box. The K&N lost 2hp, 4 tq and raised my egts 100 at WOT. I recommend a timing advance and a better flowing filter.

 

[JJW_ND]

GSK can = high EGTs

From what I have seen, if one has already changed the fuel plate and can get EGTs over 1300 the 3GSK will only make EGTs worse.



But it is still a good addition for the lower 3 gears, especially 3rd in a manual situation.



Sometimes air filter upgrade, and free flowing exhaust (loose convertor) will help get EGTs in check. T



The other thing I notice is towing EGTs are much better then hot rodding EGTs. I tow at much lower RPMS.



If in 5th gear EGTs get to 1300 or say even 1400 while WOT only to quickly drop back when you start to defuel... I would worry about that. That is not to hot at all. In this case 3GSK will make that 1400 keep climnbing until you backout.



What is the smoke like???



jjw

ND

 

[propuller]

It smokes very little under boost & no smoke at wot. Thats what i dont understand, i cant believe this thing gets this hot with this little of fuel. My dad bought this truck new so i know nobody else messed with any thing such as injectors or timing everything is stock & like i said i installed the plate in the factory position with the supplied template. The egts dont start to climb until 2400 to 2500 rpm if i keep it lower than that it wont heat up. Does this mean the turbo is just to restrictive?





Kurt

 

[mikel]

Originally posted by propuller

The egts dont start to climb until 2400 to 2500 rpm if i keep it lower than that it wont heat up. Does this mean the turbo is just to restrictive?





Kurt

That's exactly what it means. And a GSK *will* make the EGT issues worse under those conditions. Right now the truck is probably defueling (starting to cut back on the fuel) around 2500 or so. With a GSK you will raise the defueling point higher, how much higher is hard to say exactly because each truck responds differently, but probably closer to 2800.



These 12 valve engines do not flow the air at high RPM to keep EGTs in check with stock pieces. You probably need at the very least to change your exhaust housing to a 14 or 16. I am in the same boat, all I have is a #4 plate in my truck, but EGT's get out of hand at high RPM.





Hope this helps,

Mike

 

[propuller]

What should i do get a differant housing 14 or 16 or should i get a whole turbo & what should it be to control egts pdr 35,40 or something else like the dodgzilla hybrid. Basicly we need to lower egts & not hurt spoolup to much. Thanks guys.



Kurt

 

[mikel]

That's exactly what I'm trying to figure out too. I really want to try the PDR35 either 14 or 16 I'm not sure, but right now I have to buy a clutch and can't afford both.



Good Luck,

Mike

 

[JJW_ND]

Pulling EGTs

Do you get high EGTs pulling?



I ask this because if I quote my pulling (big loads) EGTS I would say in our state there is not a hill (more like a bump) I would hit 1300 on in 5th with legal speed limits. It I quote running empty street racing temps I hit 1300 somewhere in the mid 2000 RPMS and it keeps slowly climbing from there as high as I let it.



I have always found pulling between 1900 - 2400 to more then adequate with cruising rpms around 2000 ideal for my truck. If you are below 1300 in that area you should be fine.



The cheapest EGT fix reading your setup would be the 16cm non waste gated housing.



The No smoke makes me question if the 1300 EGT readings are accurate. I have always seem some smoke, especially in the higher rpms if EGTS wanted to go above 1300.



Running EGTs above 1200 very long should show up in you coolant temps. I can make my coolant gauge move on every hill now. If your coolant temps are stable... . I would question the EGT gauge.



jjw

ND

 

[propuller]

Yes the coolant temps will rise if you keep your foot in it. The temps can be controlled but when your in the hills & kick it of overdrive & the rpms go up so does the egts. If you lug it down in the rpm band then the temps stay low but that is not good on transmissions either. Not enough power to maintain speed in overdrive but to much fuel to let the motor spin to 2500 out of overdrive. If i go down the highway with the truck & lock it out of overdrive & run it up to 65 mph or above 2200 rpm & then floor the throttle the egt will go to 1400 like nothing & this is what im trying to prevent without putting the stock plate back in. Will the PDR 35 with the 12cm housing cure this problem? or should i put the 16 cm housing on the stock turbo & make it a lag pig.





Kurt

 

[chrleb1]

Bump up the timing to at least 16 degrees, it is a must. Fuel mileage will go up and your egts will fall. Do this before spending any money anywhere else first. Also get a turbo housing that has a wastegate. So you would want a 14 cm with a wastegate. You are able to flow more air through the turbo when the wastegate open on a 14 than you can flow on a 16. Also go to an aFe mega cannon filter. But hold back on buying a totally new turbo. You can always by the housing and if that doesn't do enough for you then you can get a PDR 35, you just have to let Piers know that you have a new housing.

 

[propuller]

Chrleb1

Thank you sir this is a good starting point for my dad. These 12 valve motors are confusing to me so all the help is greatly appreciated.



Kurt

 

[Leon R]

Very good topic and information. Exactly what I have been experiencing and wanting to find a way to lower the egts. I have lots of pedal left when towing but don't seem to be able to us it as the egts can get out of control.

 

[Piston Slapper]

I'd pull of the air filter tube from the trubo and run it down the road without a filter to rule that out. Then bumped the timing up to at least 16 degrees and go from there. After having run 14 and 16 cm housing on stock chargers and then running an aftermarket. I would skip the housings unless money was just a big issue, cause they do not help a whole lot, but do help some.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

A 16cm housing will flow pretty much as well as an 18cm housing at the upper end, and is decent for the low-mid range... if you want a bit better spool-up on a particular housing they can be modified somewhat to help with that low-mid range area.

I went from a N/W 14cm to a N/W 16 housing and lost 150*F off my EGT's... which were hitting 1800*F at one time... . nasty :--) :--)

The 16cm also produced about 2 psi less total boost over all. .

I would really suggest the 16 as a great all aroung compromise between spool-up/boost/lower drive pressures...



Pastor Bob.