Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Egt's again!

[larryshew]

Took first trip this weekend with my new Northern-lite 10'-2" Slide in camper. 2,800# dry weight. My profile dosn't show I have a custom ground plate that Piers says is a 230 HP I can't remember what TST plate #he said it duplicated and 230 HP Bosch Injectors. I still have my cat but my EGt's would not let me go up White Pass( a 6% grade) any faster than 40 mph in sec gear and then I was pushing 750-800 Post egt's. Boost was 20(max boost is 34) and Rpms 2200 . I know a new Exhaust and loosing cat would help. But now that I have thrown all this money into power. I don't need this to get this camper up the hill 50 mph. I had a camper the same weight on a ford 6 cylinder GAS motor and could do this!What would be a simple adjustment of the equipment that I have to lower egt's, even if I lose some power for nown and in what order should I proceed?

 

[markdixon]

Slide the fuel plate back about 1/16 of an inch. I would also remove the cat all you need is a peice of three inch pipe and one adaptor to go from three inch to four inch pipe. Had a local muffler shop do mine cost was $40. 00 I thik mopar sells atest pipe also to do this with. And lastly check your air filter.

 

[dpuckett]

Get you rtiiming checked as well. How far post turbo are you? In my 93, I could see 950 3/4" post turbo, but at that temp, I had to lug it and was only pushing <10 psi. AS boost came up, EGT went down. What size housing do you have? The wastegate opening up too soon may not let the turbo spin in enough air to match the extra fuel. I am by no means an expert, but have just picked up on a few things here and there. Mainly here in the TDR forums.



Daniel

 

[Bob Wagner]

larry, i picked up a 95 service manual, if you still want one shoot me a PM



Bob

 

[SlyBones]

Get the timing set to 15. 5 - 16. 0 range, then I would do the exhaust. I would use Rip and work something out.



My opinion would be that w/o airflow mods all that power is not useable in all conditions. With a given load, grade, gearing, and all that if lets say 150rwhp is all you can use and keep in under 1200*, then upping the power to 300rwhp does not do any good. You can still only use 150 of it.



I think Dodge sets them up from the factoty so they only have a small amount of margin on EGTs when fully loaded. So empty you can add some reasonable HP and still keep the EGT's in check. But at GCVW if they are already very close to the limit, then adding power w/o adding airflow does not do any good.



Here is where the newer 24Vers have it nice. The boxes control the timing, the heads flow more, the factory exhausts dont have cats, etc. They have much more margin that us 12vers to.



Seems as though your camper is not maxing the truck. I have not been over White Pass with my trailer, but I suspect that it should do 50mph. So you might want to check for boost leaks, and other diagnostic releated things and make sure its purely the need for additional airflow and not a problem of some kind that needs fixed.

 

[Deezul1]

I pull a 6500lb TT and can accelerate up any hill I have been on while towing to any speed that I want too but havnt tried over 75mph. I cant go hammer down but as long as I watch EGTS and adjust throttle slightly as needed its not a problem. This rig has been all over the country including the high mountains of New Mexico and Colorado. Lose the cat and get a BHAF that runs abour $40 and you will see a difference. My exhaust system is stock size just straight through. See sig.

 

[bnelson]

larryshew--



Just for comparison- My recent trip pulling a loaded car trailer, total GCW of over 14,000 lbs up Cabbage Mt. (I-84 just east of Pendleton, Ore. , also a 6% grade. )-- I held 5th gear until near the top when I had to slow for slower traffic. Engine speed was 1,500 to 2,000 RPM. EGT (pre-turbo) peaked at about 975. Boost was generally 16 to 20 with bursts of up to 35 (A Ford tried to be cute). Speed was easily maintainable at +65 when traffic and curves in the road permitted. It felt like 1/4 throttle or less was plenty.



Mods are K&N element in stock air box, exhaust is 5" behind the cat, (single cab stack), and a TST #11 plate, stock position. This is a '97 BR3500 with 3. 54 gears, 235R 16 rubber.



I'd say that something is not correct on your truck.



Good luck. bwn

 

[Dieselnerd]

To be "safe" it's a good idea to assume a temperature difference of 300 degrees when measuring post turbo. Those that have the ability to monitor both have provided charts on this website in the past and in many instances the difference was quite a bit less. If your probe is in the turbo elbow, 750 to 800 is not that high and you should not have to worry unless you start going above 950 which would equal about 1250 in the manifold. I have the TST plate and rarely have to back off going up a long grade pulling a heavy 5th wheel. My probe is post turbo. With a pickup camper I never have to back off. If you get over 900 and it keeps climbing you may have a problem but it might surprise you and level off just a little higher than you have experienced so far.

 

[larryshew]

OK! Then!

I am talking to Rip about a new Exhaust and my Pyro is Post at 1/2" past clamp on downleg before pac-brake. I will order a Isspro EV Pyro and install it in the manifold to be sure of temps before I proceed with any other mods or start backing off on the plate. But the truth is I have not pushed the temps passed 750 degs. post to see how far it will go in fear of high heat. I can sacrifice power for long term operations if I have to.

 

[SMorneau]

Check the TC

Are you sure your Pyro is working?

 

[larryshew]

A new pyrometer in the manifold is the first thing I will do!

 

[MDKram]

Larry, are you running any kind of air flow restriction in front of your intercooler such as a bug screen front or winter front? If so, remove it and this will help. Marc

 

[Andy Redmond]

inaccurate pyro

I ran into an Isspro EV pyro that was reading about two hundred deg. warmer than actual temps.



Worth looking into maybe.



Good luck, Andy

 

[larryshew]

Cold Reading

Andy what was your dead cold reading. mine is about 75 deg. and 5-600 when freeway driving and takes about 30 secs. to cool to 300 deg. after running. Those numbers are about normal. Also Pyro's some times don't read higher if they have a bad connection they read lower. So I could keep quessing or buy anoyher pyro.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Pyro accuracy

Ok, it would read 75-100 deg. at ambient air temps... 40-70 deg. F.



It would take 5 min. of idling at 50 deg. to go down to 350 deg. F.



It would achieve 1150 deg. stock (180 hp auto trans) with the 215 injectors.



With a # 10 plate, 3k gov. springs, PDR HX 35 w 14cm2 housing and "bumped" timing it would easily hit 1300-1400.



Another customer mentioned when he converted to the EV's that it read 200 deg. higher than his original Isspro pryo, which got me to thinking. .



Isspro advised him to open the "converter" box and adjust a setting inside. All is well now. . maybe contact Isspro first before it becomes your own warranty station. .



Back to the first truck. . I didn't sell or install the gauges, so the customer was to discuss this with his gauge vendor.



Hope this narrative was helpful. .



Good luck Andy

 

[Dieseldemon]

EGT

How far did you move the AFC housing when you installed the plate if you moved it all the way forward move it back about 1/16"

to the rear and let the AFC control part of the fuel that will lower your EGT

 

[larryshew]

New RIP exhaust!

Just had Rip Rook put in a new 4" turbo back exhaust. Will be putting on camper and heading over same pass in a couple of weeks will report the differance. Already have lowered my crusing EGT's about 75 degs and at idle after warm up it will drop to 200 degs. before woul dnot go lower than 300 degs.