Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) EGT's Still high after twins

[KLockliear]

Something doesn't sound right in the setup. 350rwhp truck should have no problem with EGT's. How "maxed out" is the pump (ie, plate full forward or removed, 191's, rack plug, etc)? What injectors?

 

[JHastings]

stock 215 injectors. 191's, #10 plate full forward and as far as I know I still have the stock rack travel plug. Put down 298 with my stock 35 and egt's pegging the gauge. I am looking into boost leaks. I got a new intake manifold gasket today along with new grid heater gasket and helicoil inserts. Going to take it all apart tomorrow. Do those gaskets go on dry or what?

 

[Moose Truck]

Make a Boost Tester with the Moose

Also, I will try to put the compressor on the charge air system to see If I have any boos leaks. How did you plug the intake on the big turbo?







Jamie

Jamie, The easiest way to pressure check the charge air system would be to go to your home improvement store and buy 1, a Rubber Drain Coupling (Used to hook drain pipes to each other, It's a rubber tube with 2 worm clamps. ) I'd say 4". 2, Get a 4" close out in PVC, and a 4" Pipe plug in PVC. 3, get a tee, a pressure gage, a nipple, and a shut-off valve in pipe top fit your Air compressor. 4, get a pipe thread tap to fit the stuff you got in step 3.



When you get back to the shop, 1, Assemble the tee to the pressure gage and shut-off valve. 2, assemble the tee and gage to the 4' Pipe plug. 3, Assemble the Pipe plug to the Close Out. 4, Assemble the closeout to the Lower Turbo inlet, using the Rubber drain Coupling. 5, Hook up your shop air to the valve and slowly pressurize the Intake tract. I would not go over 10PSI. No need to Disconnect any thing else. The engine should seal the other end of the Intake Tract, you may need to "bump" the engine to get any open Exhaust Valves to close. You should be able to hear, or find any leaks with soapy water.



In our Coffee Night shop this Do-hickey has found bad Intake to engine seals, blown boots and even a rotted Intercooler.

 

[JHastings]

That sounds good. I'll try that tomorrow. Hope I find something easy like a bad boot or something.

Jamie

P. S. any idea of whether or not the intake manifold gasket and the new gray grid heater gaskets go on dry or with gasket cinch,..... ?

 

[thekidfan]

stock 215 injectors. 191's, #10 plate full forward and as far as I know I still have the stock rack travel plug. Put down 298 with my stock 35 and egt's pegging the gauge. I am looking into boost leaks. I got a new intake manifold gasket today along with new grid heater gasket and helicoil inserts. Going to take it all apart tomorrow. Do those gaskets go on dry or what?

180 pump, w/215 injectors, or is this a 215 pump?



Keith, you have a P. M. !

 

[JHastings]

Its an 841 pump which is a 175 pump. Also has 3000 springs

 

[KLockliear]

Do you still have the stock delivery valves? I've seen the 191's do more harm than good. Also, for a 350hp truck, I'd say your timing might be on the high side. We normally don't go over 16* until after 500rwhp. Some things you can try.

 

[JHastings]

Nope no stock delivery valves anymore. Sold them. I will check and retard my timing as soon as my timing kit comes back to me. Its on loan. Today I am looking for boost leaks and replacing intake manifold gaskets. Do they go on dry or what?

 

[KLockliear]

Hopefully you are using the good ones... from Cummins, the pink ones. Yes, they go on dry.

 

[JHastings]

I don't know which ones I have to tell you the truth. I traded for them. Anyhow here is how today went. Pressure tested the charge air system. Found that one bolt holding the 3B compressor housing to the cartridge had backed out. Must have done this when I reclocked the turbo. Put that back in. No boost leaks at the intake manifold or at any of the boots. only hissing sound came from the small port on my boost elbow. So fixed my afc with helicoil. Worked great. Also added a boost gauge to the 3b outlet. After fixing the boost leak I still hit about 1500*, 52 psi total, and about 25 psi from the 3B. So now what? Timing..... ? Is that about what you want the 3b to be boosting at? at 22 psi, the 3b is pushing 10spi. Besides timing, what else could it be? Could my injectors be junk, DV's, need a larger exhaust housing on my 35, external wg? By the way, the truck kind of makes a sputtering noise when at high rpm's.
Thanks,
Jamie

 

[Don Tanklage]

... fixed my afc with helicoil. Worked great.



Jamie

they almost always work on first assembly. as you saw the replacement threads are stainless steel and individual (like a spring). so if you remove the bolt the threads may grab the bolt and part of the treads may come out with the bolt. just dont ever take it apart and i bet you wont have any problems...



lol



don

 

[JTroiano]

How about a bad EGT gauge? I think you have good boost. I think its to much fuel and I bet you are over 350 hp. If you dont know what delivery valves you have what if you have laser cuts?



I go back to my other question. Under load at 50+ pounds of boost, do you still have black smoke out of the tail pipe?



I've also heard that sometimes when injectors get really worn they dump more fuel. Hopefully not just one cyl.



Another thing to try is get one of those guns that measure temps and take the truck for a hard run and get out quick and measure the temps at each exhaust port to see if you have one cyl. dumping to much fuel. If it is that one cyl will get really hot.



I have an HX35/HTB3, 370 marine inj, 022 DV's and my timing set at about 17 Degrees. It is a 180hp pump with a zero plate and no gov. springs yet.

I never see over 1100 degrees. My boost max's out at 70-75. I very seldom get it that high. Usually 50-55.



Jon

 

[12V Ford]

I have an HX35/HTB3, 370 marine inj, 022 DV's and my timing set at about 17 Degrees. It is a 180hp pump with a zero plate and no gov. springs yet.

I never see over 1100 degrees. My boost max's out at 70-75. I very seldom get it that high. Usually 50-55.



Jon

Dang, that's good. I have about the same setup, but 181DV and a 215 pump and with the 10 plate and 0 plate, I see the same max boost of about 55 psi, but my pyro is about 1500. Anything after 30 psi, I'm above 1200 and there isn't much smoke once the boost comes on. I pressure tested everything and haven't found any boost leaks. My fuel pressure guage took a dump, but I know it was going down below 10psi before on WOT(if it was reading right).

 

[JTroiano]

No waste gate!!



I seem to be talking to myself here. I guess I'll shut up.

 

[JWashburn]

At those kind of temps I'd bet you are turning the head near the exhaust ports a little blue.



It sounds like you might be compressing air instead of moving it through. Perhaps some waste gate tuning is in order. I don't remember if there's a big waste gate installed, but maybe that's what it needs.



Also, along the idea of just compressing air, it may be that 4" is not big enough. You might need a 5" exhaust.

 

[WDixon27]

that seems to be going around, my around a year old 60# isspro crapped a couple weeks ago, i have a spare black face 30# isspro if you are interested

. My fuel pressure guage took a dump,

 

[JHastings]

I am sure I have 191's. I checked the numbers on them before I put them in. I just don't know whose 191's they are (mfg. ) It sounds like your setup is really good Jon and you have alot more fuel than I do. 12VFord, my results are almost identical to yours. Maybe I have a bad injector. Hope not b/c that would be no fun especially if there is damage to the cylinder. I'll look into it further.

Jamie

 

[JTroiano]

I even have the same timming. Somebody said that maybe the timming slipped? Also I dont have an AC condensor in front of the intercooler. How about a dirty radiator. Not enough air flow.



I do not have a waste gate on the the system. I was told I could adjust the boost with the amount of fuel. When I do add more fuel I will hook up the waste gate and will have to deal with the higher EGT's.



If you are using a waste gate. Is the drive pressure pushing the valve open early?



On my other twins on my 24 valve I just used the spring pressure on the waste gate to control the boost. The drive pressure would open the valve and I tightened or loosened the spring until I had it set were I wanted.

Probably not the best way but it is still working perfect 4 years later.



Jon

 

[JTroiano]

This is from the other thread... ... .



"Well, I think I'm starting to get it figured out. I screwed my wastegate rod in a full turn to make to gate open later and my egts went way down. Now it doesn't hit 1250 until 40psi and spool up is better.



Max boost is still 55psi, 27 max on ht3b and 28 on hx35. I may adjust the wastegate up some more and see how it does.

Anyone know what max boost I should run on the HX35?



I would think that the later the wastegate opens, the more max boost it would make, but it is stuck at 55psi and the smoke is all cleared up. I think I'm running out of fuel at the top end. What do I do about that? Like I said, before the fuel pressure gauge took a dump, it was going down to below 10 psi on WOT.



Thanks for the help already. Oh yeah, my timing is at 16* and total boost is sensed at the intake on the head. "



Take the hose off the waste gate and drive it!!!

 

[12V Ford]

I have discovered that it makes a big difference how the wastegate is setup. It's not running as hot now that the wastegate is opening later. I'm going to mess with it and find the sweet spot. I would guess that you don't want the hx35 to push more than 35psi, 31 or 32psi may be just about right.